tcpip95

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tcpip95 last won the day on July 15

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About tcpip95

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    Commodore
  • Birthday 08/24/1955

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    -Ft. Myers, FL

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  1. Uh, what's up with the alligator clip?
  2. SemperFi is right on the money. Get it in writing, and get lots of pictures as well right now. Get a newspaper and take a picture of it showing today's date and the damage. Glad the dealer is owning up to it. They shouldn't have any problem writing you a "we owe" today.
  3. Dev, an additional docking strategy if the wind is preventing you from getting lined up with the slip: Scenario: You are approaching your slip, but the wind is blowing you to port. Secure the port-bow line to the front piling on your port side as discussed before , leaving about 5-10' of line between the boat cleat and the piling. With the line secured to your port-bow cleat and to the piling, turn your wheel all the way to the right, then slowly go in reverse at idle speed. This will draw the line tight, while at the same time moving the stern of the boat to the right, allowing you align with the slip. Then, once aligned, slowly idle forward into your slip, releasing the bow line as you enter the slip.
  4. Yes, but I missed a step: tie the loop end of the dock line to your port-bow cleat first. Standing at your port bow, loop a LONG dock line around that piling (just idle up to it slowly, and get the line looped, then walk back to the helm). Hold on to the bitter end of the dock line to manage it around the piling. Can you draw a picture and either scan it in or upload it as a photo that will give us a better understanding of what you're trying to do? That would be EXTREMELY helpful.
  5. I don't know that a trolling motor is your answer. Assuming you are docking the boat by yourself (no one else available to help), that's going to be a lot of running forward and backward (between helm and trolling motor) trying to fit it into the slip. My suggestion would be to have a long dock line handy and as you near the closest piling loop the line around the piling (loosely) to secure a single point, using it as a spring line - except you will continue to hold on to the line while standing at the helm - letting a little out or in as needed. From there I would then manage the stern of the boat using the motor, while continuing to handle that dock line until you are in a position to secure the boat. This should make the docking much more manageable.
  6. This is exactly what I'll be doing when I get the boat back. The existing stereo is getting pulled out and my 7" Garmin 74sv is going in it's place. I'm then installing a Dual 3" stereo w/Bluetooth down below where the Garmin will be (real get about knee height on the lower portion of the console). The new stereo comes with an app for totally controlling it via Bluetooth, so I won't have to bend down to access any of the controls; I'll be able to do it all from my phone. I also purchased a 3" rubber cover to protect it from the screen from the sun.
  7. I'm just curious.... when you see a large wake coming, do you approach it at a 45° angle, or are you taking the wave head on?
  8. It's funny you bring this up. When I had my trailer built, the only thing the builder asked me to measure was the center-on-center between pontoons. Port-to center, starboard-to-center, and port-to-starboard. He said pontoon manufacturers were notorious for having very small differences in measurements from boat to boat.
  9. Dealers are pretty much going to go by NADA pricing. On the NADA site, you can put in some extras, but dealers use that book as the bible.
  10. Usually you can pull right up to the beach. HOWEVER..... 1. Occasionally there will be signs that say "no combustion engines" (mostly wildlife refuge areas). 2. There may be "Idle Only" markers near the beach. Simply idle up to the shore. 3. If there's a fishing pier, you have to stay a certain distance (300-500') away from the pier. I no longer beach my boat. I'll take it in to about 3-4' of water and anchor. It makes it easier come time to leave, and you don't get beat by the waves.
  11. You may get tempted to stick your nose out in the Gulf. Just be careful of the weather. It turns suddenly these days now and that 90HP is going to struggle in any kind of weather. I'm overly anal about safety gear. The cell phone is fine - unless you and/or it gets dunked or lost. Cheap handheld VHF radios can be had for $40 and you'll get help much quicker.
  12. Yeah, I'm afraid nobody is going to touch that from a liability perspective. Somebody tries to fix that and it fills with water, now they're possibly on the hook for it. Whatever you hit sure did a good job of tearing up that end cap. Something this big is definitely an insurance claim. The pontoon alone is going to cost $4,000 just to order. Where are you located?
  13. "You are responsible for your wake". Did you happen to get the registration number of the large cruiser that created the wave? They are legally responsible for the damage. It may be too late now, but since you frequent waters with some heavy traffic, remember this in the future. Oh, and welcome aboard.
  14. If you're only going to have it in saltwater for a couple of days you don't need bottom paint. I kept mine in saltwater for 5 years in wet slip, and I absolutely needed it to have bottom paint. The bottom paint is needed to slow marine growth. In your case as described, I wouldn't bother with bottom paint. Just take a towel and wipe down the 'toons when you're in the water, then rinse off with fresh water at the end.
  15. My cabling all ran down the starboard pontoon, behind the outboard side panel, and had wire ties along the way, so pulling it via a fish is out. To get to it, you must pop the rivets that hold the side panel to the brackets. Only way I got to is was because the had removed the panels to work on the pontoons. I would be nice to be able to take those off at will. I'm going to ask and see if they can re-attach them with aluminum screws when they work on my boat (it's in the shop now).