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tcpip95 last won the day on April 29

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About tcpip95

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  • Birthday 08/24/1955

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    -Ft. Myers, FL

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  1. This looks like it would fit your needs nicely. It gets great reviews. Also looks like they have great tech support.
  2. When I was towed by TowBoatUS some years ago, they used a bridle and tied it off to both bow cleats. That was a 7-hour tow. They actually had to hand us off to another TowBoatUS as we went into a different county. That guy tied it off in the exact same fashion, and we had a very safe and smooth ride home. We refueled and got two tanks of bad fuel about 35 miles from home.
  3. Agree with this. We ended up buying 2 sets of them and rarely use them. I have them wrapped in plastic garbage bags and kept under one of the seats. In 5 years I don't think we've ever used them both at the same time.
  4. Which weapon was Charlotte holding?
  5. Nah, you probably won't get the oar back!
  6. I dunno, these claws look pretty bad-ass! For the record, I like the plain black with the chrome.
  7. There are a lot of factors that go into whether to tow another boat or not. What are the weather and sea conditions? What is the weight and draft of the boat you're towing? How strong are the lines? How long are the lines? How big of a motor do you have? Is the vehicle being towed in any danger, or is this simply a courtesy that you're extending them (i.e. they're right along the shore, but they're 5 miles from the boat ramp; not in danger, just inconvenient)? Another war story..... We're out with some guests and have beached the boat for the afternoon. A couple of young girls (13 years old) come up and told us their boat had broken down, and could we please tow them? I walk down the beach and talk to the father of the girls, and he says he forgot to put his plugs in, so he flooded the engine compartment and can't start the boat. He asked me if I could "tow him to the bridge" - which is about 1 mile away. I asked him if he had SeaTow or TowBoatUS. He said no. OK, I look at his boat, and I can tow this for a mile. So I get him all rigged up to tow and away we go. We go until we get to the inlet where the bridge is, and I start turning in. He starts hollering at me "where are you going?". I yell back to him "to the bridge". He says "not this bridge, the Sanibel Bridge" - which is about 10 miles away. I tell him that my boat and motor cannot possibly tow him that far, but I've got him in a safe inlet in protected waters about 3' deep with plenty of people and boat traffic around. As I'm cutting him loose (by the way, the guy never even said "Thanks"), his wife says "Great.... now we gotta find some other idiot to tow us". No good deed goes unpunished I guess. My unlimited TowBoatUS is $157 per year. This guy has his wife and two kids on board and won't spend that? Crazy.
  8. The eyelets on the back of the boat are too close to the motor; they would really rub the motor and leave a mark. I have towed people a couple of times, and what I did was create a bridle about 40' long. I tied one end to each of the stern cleats, then tied the tow rope to the bridle. That gave me enough room to be able to make turns without the lines hitting my motor.
  9. <SIGH!> Two more weeks to go until repairs are completed....
  10. This is the key part. That's what the anodes will help you protect against.
  11. I don't know how well they'll be able to clean the scratches up. I do know that if they try, they're going to have one hell of a time trying to blend the buffing that they'll have to do to make it not noticeable. Then they'll have to do a large portion of that area over again to remove the old sharkhide and re-apply the new. Bummer.
  12. The only concern with electrolysis is if you are keeping the boat in the water for any length of time. If you are doing so, you need to pay attention to what type of water it is being kept in, then use the appropriate sacrificial anodes. Additionally, if kept in a slip with electrical power being nearby, you need to periodically test for stray current. Otherwise, as Kaydano said, just check the anodes occasionally. If you bought the Saltwater Series, the anodes will most likely be zinc. Zinc is fine for saltwater, but if you're in brackish water you'll want aluminum anodes. If in fresh water, you'll want magnesium anodes - HOWEVER - there seems to be a caveat to "never mix magnesium anodes with aluminum anodes". Since our boats are by design made of aluminum, I think we need to get some direction from Bennington on the use of magnesium with our boats. Here's a good article on anodes.
  13. I have the 4-step stainless steel telescoping latter. I like it a lot. It's much smaller than the big aluminum ladder and stows out of the way completely. Every once in awhile I forget to reel it back in when we get underway, but no big deal. I don't like the looks of the big aluminum ladder, although I would imagine it's easier to get in and out of the water with it than with the telescoping one. The steps seem to be wider on the aluminum one. Having said that, I have no problem boarding with my full scuba gear on with the telescoping SS ladder.
  14. I regularly take my 24 SSL tritoon offshore in the GoM. Last time out I was about 16 miles west of Sanibel Island. I've been out in 3'ers with short period. Might make you puke but the boat will take it. Must haves include: 1. Horsepower, horsepower, horsepower. Don't even think about doing it with less than 150 HP. 2. Roughwater package. Performance foils and lifting strakes. Don't skimp "out there". 3. Fuel capacity. I added a 2nd 19-gallon tank. 4. Safety gear. You're playing in the real world out there. Fixed VHF (for maximum RF power), PLB - attached to you at all times, handheld VHF - attached to you at all times. Enjoy! It's a helluva good boat. Just make sure you learn how it handles - it definitely handles different than a center console. Do you have to cross any bars going out or in through an inlet? If so, you REALLY want to get a feel for your boat before doing so.
  15. Yep. Needs to be welded. No substitute. As someone said: if the factory felt that epoxy would have been sufficient, they'd have glued it instead of welded it. They welded it for a reason. The dealer needs to do the same thing. Reading your post again, you're talking about the hole that they drilled, right? In BOTH cases, it needs to be welded.