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gnc1017 last won the day on September 26 2015

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About gnc1017

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    Carlyle Lake, IL

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  1. Requirements vary from state to state but I believe those battery posts should be covered (individually or with a battery cover), regardless of clearance. Nice hinge fix by the way!
  2. Look closely at the pics in this thread.
  3. Just realized I needed to correct my previous post. Ours is now relocated to the inside of the outer starboard frame rail, not the inside of the starboard toon. This places it above the toon instead of on the outer edge, which much better protects it from the spray.
  4. You're welcome!
  5. I think this was a problem on a lot of them due to where they were located and water intrusion. Ours was located under the deck on the outside of the starboard toon so with a warranty replacement by the dealer, we moved it to the inside of the toon. I believe that's where they are on the new models. Been working fine since.
  6. Note that if you flip the lower plastic catches/latches, the little ears on the side that are there to hold the arms tight against the other frame arms when closed are then facing up and are no longer functional. We put Velcro wraps on them to hold them down in place of the ears but that was more as a precaution since we trailer.
  7. We also have the curved bimini and in the past have on occasion had one of the front legs pop loose on us, I believe was when the water was a little rougher and at moderate speed. Making sure you have it adjusted with good tension on those front legs should help. We also flipped the lower catches and that seems to have helped as it hasn't happened since. Since seeing the post where they put locking pins on the trailering arms of the front Bimini option, we are seriously considering flipping them back and installing some of those pins. Ours didn't seem as bad as yours; however, I will be watching this post closely to see what works the best.
  8. We have an RCW and love the look of the new swingbacks but since we generally have multiple groups of guests, the center walkout splits the rear seating to separate sides (instead of a single, wider seat). However, we don't really have the big, wide seat that would be more of a sunpad like the swingback. In the end, the split rear loungers are still super comfy so unless we started having fewer guests, I think our CW is best for us. And as stated, if you go SB, I highly recommend the rail.
  9. I'd check it first if any way possible but from what I've seen with many of these pontoon setups, although possible, I think it would be unlikely to have too much tongue weight. I have a 2010 F150 and the air bags make a big difference. It is okay without them aired up for shorter trips (although I almost always air them up when pulling the boat anyways), but for longer trips, aired up is an absolute must for me. Then again, we are also 6400+ lbs with the boat and trailer... Depending on the size of the travel trailer, I'd seriously consider a WD hitch (unless you do air bags). And a TT hitch with anti-sway bars would be on my list too.
  10. I'd be very hesitant to move the boat back. You want tongue weight to prevent sway issues. If you have the proper tongue weight but have too much vehicle rear sag, that's where air bags or weight distribution hitches (more typical for trailers with electric brakes) come in.
  11. Sounds like its likely either siphoning back into the tank or vapor locking. Another thing to maybe try... Check to make sure the primer bulb is mounted in a vertical position with the outlet at the top. Our dealer said that was very important. We have a Yamaha but I wonder if so for others too.
  12. Thanks Vikingstaff! And one of the side-benefits is that if we put enough time and effort into customizing our boat, we counter the pull of PADS - especially with all the new eye candy out there these days. So in that way, I guess we can consider it an 'investment'. LOL
  13. Hi, Derrick! Funny, just like you said, we considered the cap up there too but in the end, we are somewhat preserving that space above for a possible EQ/sound processor - just in case.. We did take advantage of the plywood on the lounger back to fasten our fabricated mounting brackets that hold the amp board (didn't like it just being held by the fiberglass shell of the helm). You can see one of them in the picture. And you're right - water under the helm was a consideration so there is a slight gap between the amp board and the floor and more water than that, you got it - bigger problems! A pair of Rev 10s looking for a new home? Probably a good thing we kept our custom external speaker setup from our last system. How tempting!
  14. A few weeks ago, my buddies and I finally got around to starting on the stereo upgrade we had planned since the time we placed our order but had yet to get around to. We only did the front of the boat now (time to use it again, not work on it) but we're pretty happy so far. We ordered the boat in 2015 with the Wet Sounds speaker upgrade but no amps or subs. While this definitely isn't for everyone, it may give some new ideas to those who want to do a custom system on their Bennington too. After all, future phase 2 (the rear of the boat) will likely be what Derrick did - mounting a subwoofer into the side of the rear lounger. We have been the beneficiaries of very good advice and info from the forum so just trying to pay it forward... For this initial phase, we modified the port side table (a small table between the 2 captain's chairs on the RCWCP model or those that have the 'port table group' upgrade) to turn it into a subwoofer enclosure. Technically, we didn't turn the table into an enclosure (due to numerous application, sound, and reliability issues that would have come from that) so we had to get a little creative in the install and just made it look like that's what we did. In reality, we fabricated a sealed enclosure mounted inside but not fastened to the side of the table. Additional details are with the pics in my gallery. The subwoofer is a Wet Sounds SS-65 (since it has great specs and requires only a very, very small enclosure). Considering the location, we also wanted a grill. But since Wet Sounds doesn't make one specifically for this sub, Wet Sounds (thanks Joe!) hooked us up with a Rev 8 speaker grill that, after we made some minor modifications, finished it off. We used a JL RD400/4 amp for this sub (and the 2 front Wet Sounds speakers that came with the boat). For the rear, we plan to use a JL RD900/5 so we installed the infrastructure now and left spacing for that as well (it will go just left of the RD400). Since we always trailer and keep a ton of stuff on our boat, space is a premium. Our goal is to capitalize on 'otherwise wasted and unused space' while still getting the quality sound we are looking for (and satisfying my OCD tendencies too). Best laid plans of course but so far, so good. It's not the system we had in our last boat and we still have the entire rear to do, but considering we only have one amp and a single 6.5" subwoofer, we're pretty impressed with the sound and where this whole project is headed. If nothing else, it will definitely get us through until phase 2 next winter. It's not all Wet Sounds (sorry Derrick), nor all JL (sorry Spinzone) but hopefully you both would approve. Most of all, thanks guys sharing your experiences and wisdom! And yes, it drives me crazy that the capacitor writing is up-side down (because of how we wanted to mount it) - even inside the helm where nobody will see it. I'm thinking a black vinyl wrap and a Bennington logo will take care of that pretty soon...
  15. LOL. Being it took us 3 seasons to get started on this one, I hope you're not in a hurry Good to see you finally got your new Bennington in and I'm sure you'll enjoy it as much as we do ours - putting projects like this at a much lower priority.