Fplcman

Upgrades - time to get started

68 posts in this topic

Tomorrow I get access to my boat to start my projects. I spent the winter spending all my money on boat upgrades. So here is list for the next few weeks:

under the seat lights - blue to match the other blue lights

underwater lights - 4 DS lights from Coastalnightlights.com

Garmin 53DV 

and other goodies... :)

I am so ready to get started!

 

84C7F47D-222C-49E1-A9D9-E023CC0AB48F_zps

 

 

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good Luck fplcman, many on here probably want to do the same things.  Keep us posted and updated on how it goes as well as how you did it

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Link said:

Good Luck fplcman, many on here probably want to do the same things.  Keep us posted and updated on how it goes as well as how you did it

Will do. I will also post up before and after numbers on the engine upgrade. We will see if this big boat can hit 50 mph this year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice project, take lots of pics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I put in the ECU, installed the 4 underwater lights and installed the new Garmin. 

For the new lights I had to add a bracket.

 

This is weekend I will finish the wiring and get a picture of how they look. Then on to the LED lights for the seats. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is that bracket glued on? The water will sure light up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, lakeliving said:

Is that bracket glued on? The water will sure light up!

No They put some kind of coating over the weld. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of upgrading to the Garmin 53DV and am torn between having Bennington add it with the boat build or if I should do it myself.  Looks like the 53 will fit just fine but being new to pontoon boats I"m not sure how the wire is run down the rear of the tube.  My understanding is that the 53 sits on a pedestal and this is how it gets it's connections.  I can't tell from the pictures if you used the pedestal?   I'm also curious as to how you ran the cable from the head unit to the sensor.  I'm a pretty handy guy but I just want to make sure I can run the cable myself with all the splash guards and everything else underneath.   Bennington is charging me around $950 for the upgrade yet I'm seeing these units available for under $500 - seems like a lot of money to have the factory mount.

Also, I'm curious as to how you plan to mount and power the LED seat lights.  I have read where people have attached to the bottom of the seats but I'm wondering how well that holds up when constantly opening and closing the seats to access the storage areas.  I'm thinking that attaching to the seat base at the top would be a better way to mount but am interested in seeing what you did.   Also, most LED systems that I am seeing, and from your pictures it looks about the same, it seems there is a AC power supply that powers these.  I'm curious as to how everyone is powering these with AC on a battery powered (DC) boat?   I'm wondering if there is a DC powered LED system?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I toyed with the same thing regarding the Garmin unit.  Yeah I could install it myself but I chose to just let them do it for a couple of reasons.  If they do the install it's covered under warranty for 7 years and I learned that Bennington had Garmin make a special cable for the transducer.  There's a connection about 4' from the transducer itself that gets tucked into the port tube.  If you ever damaged or had to change out a transducer it would be a piece of cake.  If you buy the Garmin unit off the shelf the transducer cable is one piece.  I was spending a lot of money on my new pontoon so spending another $500 was a no brainer for me.  It really is a great little unit.  Very detailed and a snap to use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, Stevie G said:

I'm thinking of upgrading to the Garmin 53DV and am torn between having Bennington add it with the boat build or if I should do it myself.  Looks like the 53 will fit just fine but being new to pontoon boats I"m not sure how the wire is run down the rear of the tube.  My understanding is that the 53 sits on a pedestal and this is how it gets it's connections.  I can't tell from the pictures if you used the pedestal?   I'm also curious as to how you ran the cable from the head unit to the sensor.  I'm a pretty handy guy but I just want to make sure I can run the cable myself with all the splash guards and everything else underneath.   Bennington is charging me around $950 for the upgrade yet I'm seeing these units available for under $500 - seems like a lot of money to have the factory mount.

Also, I'm curious as to how you plan to mount and power the LED seat lights.  I have read where people have attached to the bottom of the seats but I'm wondering how well that holds up when constantly opening and closing the seats to access the storage areas.  I'm thinking that attaching to the seat base at the top would be a better way to mount but am interested in seeing what you did.   Also, most LED systems that I am seeing, and from your pictures it looks about the same, it seems there is a AC power supply that powers these.  I'm curious as to how everyone is powering these with AC on a battery powered (DC) boat?   I'm wondering if there is a DC powered LED system?  

The 53dv comes with the flush mount hardware. Really easy to do and only took a few minutes. The wire was hard. I fished a line down the side following the other wires then pulled the Garmin wire down. I took the line across the center to the other side (you can use your phone to see under the rail). I ran out of wire so I have to order the extension. Took the extension up the hole with all the other wires and into the back of the Garmin. I have about $350 in the garmin and wires. 

I plan on doing the under seat lights later. It is raining and cold right now. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow that is a heck of a savings from the $950+ the factory wants.  May be worth the effort.  Doesn't seem too bad, with the exception of the fish of the wires.  I am reading a lot about the splash guards being very difficult to remove and work around.  I may have to go take a closer look at the dealer to decide. 

Thanks for all the detail - it really helps me think through my project.

I found that Wet Sounds actually sells LED lighting for interior use with a pretty nice remote.  It also powers using DC connections.  That is the first I have seen of this type of power vs. the AC adaptor.  I'm anxious to see how your turns out.  

Thanks again for sharing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Stevie G said:

Wow that is a heck of a savings from the $950+ the factory wants.  May be worth the effort.  Doesn't seem too bad, with the exception of the fish of the wires.  I am reading a lot about the splash guards being very difficult to remove and work around.  I may have to go take a closer look at the dealer to decide. 

Thanks for all the detail - it really helps me think through my project.

I found that Wet Sounds actually sells LED lighting for interior use with a pretty nice remote.  It also powers using DC connections.  That is the first I have seen of this type of power vs. the AC adaptor.  I'm anxious to see how your turns out.  

Thanks again for sharing!

My lights are DC not AC. Ready to be hooked up. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used electrical wire pulling sticks and had little trouble pulling a transducer cable for my Dragonfly unit.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fplcman, can you tell me who manufactures the LED interior lights that run on DC?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Stevie G said:

Fplcman, can you tell me who manufactures the LED interior lights that run on DC?

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/181644243188

I got a 2nd kit that had a 12v box. Wire 12v on one side and plug in lights to the other side. I am still waiting for the above kit to come in. I get it next week and will install it over the weekend. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Fplcman said:

The 53dv comes with the flush mount hardware. Really easy to do and only took a few minutes. The wire was hard. I fished a line down the side following the other wires then pulled the Garmin wire down. I took the line across the center to the other side (you can use your phone to see under the rail). I ran out of wire so I have to order the extension. Took the extension up the hole with all the other wires and into the back of the Garmin. I have about $350 in the garmin and wires. 

I plan on doing the under seat lights later. It is raining and cold right now. 

This is exactly what I experienced when I tried to install the 547XS transducer. I fished it all the same way, bought a cable extension to run across, etc. I had the sticks and fish tapes from doing electrical work, but it didn't really help much in this case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Too bad they don't run conduit of some sort, even pvc to make these installations easier. I'm finishing my Aunts basement and I ran pvc to the outlets where the TV's will be located. This way as technology changes over the years you can easily pull out one cable and easily insert another. A couple bucks now and a little time to save a lot of money and time later.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Especially when they know owners are doing these kinds of upgrades.  Internal to external such as upgraded depth finders, and lighted hulls.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, lakeliving said:

Too bad they don't run conduit of some sort, even pvc to make these installations easier. I'm finishing my Aunts basement and I ran pvc to the outlets where the TV's will be located. This way as technology changes over the years you can easily pull out one cable and easily insert another. A couple bucks now and a little time to save a lot of money and time later.

I did exactly that when I pre-wired our house. I tried to get Bennington to put a large PVC pipe in from the rear lounger to the helm, as I wanted to be able to put in my own sound system wiring for batteries, etc. Unfortunately, they couldn't seem to work that detail out at the time, basically said "no". To do it now is much more involved with the waveshield and ESP.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, TomS said:

I did exactly that when I pre-wired our house. I tried to get Bennington to put a large PVC pipe in from the rear lounger to the helm, as I wanted to be able to put in my own sound system wiring for batteries, etc. Unfortunately, they couldn't seem to work that detail out at the time, basically said "no". To do it now is much more involved with the waveshield and ESP.

It is more involved but not hard just takes more time. I also installed Two amps and subs. That wire was hard to run since it was so big. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, lakeliving said:

Too bad they don't run conduit of some sort, even pvc to make these installations easier. I'm finishing my Aunts basement and I ran pvc to the outlets where the TV's will be located. This way as technology changes over the years you can easily pull out one cable and easily insert another. A couple bucks now and a little time to save a lot of money and time later.

Like TomS, When we built our last house, the builder let me run empty conduit from the basement to the garage attic then from there to second story attic, as chases for future uses.  Simple to do when building - not after everything is closed in. Seems like a minimal cost for ease of future installations on our pontoons. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We did the same thing with central vac. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Forum Statistics

    • Total Topics
      6,664
    • Total Posts
      93,445