2013 R22 specs, pontoon gauges, HHP and rough water packages

[TomS]

I'm comparing 2012 and 2013 specs on the 2275 RCWL ESP model we are ordering and re-reading the specs on the HHP Package thread HERE, as well as various rough water package (RWP) threads. For whatever reason these specs never seem real clear, but I suppose with 50+ models now they vary greatly :unsure: .

Just wondering about these items, specific to 22' R models:

Boat weight

2012 R22 ESP general spec across all layouts is 2,799 lbs, but the new 2013 R22 ESP spec is 3,290 lbs, a difference of 491 lbs. A lot of eating going on there over the winter! The R25 is only 8 lbs more at 3,298 lbs and the R22 I/O ESP (without engine) is actually less at 3,111 lbs. I'll have a Verado 250, which is 635 lbs dry, and a center fuel tank of 50+ gal, so "wet weight" with engine, fluids and gear will be considerably more. I'm buying a new free-standing hydraulic lift and a tri-toon trailer very soon, so I'd really like to know before hand, rather than just over-buying capacity on both. The next click up (4,400/5,000 vs 6,600) gets much more pricey.

Having towed many horse trailers and boats over the years, I've found the only way to truly confirm the weight of them is to take the vehicle to a local truck scale, since it is very easy and inexpensive to do locally. EVERY time I've checked, the measured weight (dry) has been more than a small amount off from manufacturer's spec (e.g. 25% or more). So experience makes me skeptical, and I like to make sure I have a safe margin.

So, any one know the story with this or actually weighed a similar rig?

Pontoon gauges

The 2012 and 2013 spec both say the standard R22 pontoon gauge is 0.080". There is no indication the ESP package is any different, but of course the engine rating bumps up considerably from 150hp to 250hp. In the HHP thread TB said: "the HHP option replaces 0.90 gauge pontoons with 0.100 gauge tubes". Perhaps that is for the R25, R28, where the base spec is .090. So, my question is what would be "standard" for R22 with ESP, since the base spec says .080, TB mentioned .090, HHP and/or RWP might be .100?

For comparison, the brand M SHP, which is their higher horsepower tri-toon, is standard 0.100 in the front 2 sections, 0.160 for the long rear section on the 27" center tube and 0.090/0.100 on the 25" outside tubes. It weighs 3,125 lbs.

Rough Water Package (RWP) and High Horsepower Package (HHP)

What specifically changes on the 22' R when you select RWP? I know the bow splash shields get closed box gussets, as shown by various pictures here, but what exactly happens to the transom structure and/or pontoon gauges, if any?

Is there even an HHP offered for the 22' R? I know it's intended for 300-350hp, but a 22' runs very similar speeds with just a 250hp, and apparently has similar weight to the 25'. If offered, what changes are there - pontoon gauge and transom structure? What does this add to the total weight and does it effect the balance of the boat at all?

Thanks everyone for any info you have.

Tom

 

[ericscher]

Tom,

Just like with cars, the options on boats change too fast to keep up. Well, as a practical matter anyway.

Your local marina is probably the best place to get that info. Plus, there's a certain level of customization that's available "off the books" if you're having your boat built for you. Not a huge amount mind you, but generally speaking you can get things that aren't official as long as they are "off the shelf" requests that don't require any actual engineering or modification. Things that CAN be easily done but which Bennington didn't think of or didn't think anyuone would care enough about to list.

As for the trailer, if you have experience pulling other trailers than you already know the answer to this.

A well equipped 22-25 foot pontoon boat on a dual axle trailer is going to add up to every bit of the 5,000lb capacity of a Class III trailer and will often exceed that capacity. Of course, depending on how far you're going, how fast you're going there and how flat or hilly the roads are, a 10-20% overload is manageable.

Having said that, you probably already know that a good rule of thumb is to double the load capacity of the trailer without including the weight of the trailer itself. By that standard, you would be well advised to plan on a Class IV hitch on a vehicle with at least a Class IV trailer capacity.

Since you're already towing horse trailers, I suspect you already own that vehicle, but I don't know if you have a frame hitch or just a 5th wheel. You probably do, but if you don't have a Class IV capable receiver style hitch on your truck, I suggest you get one.

That's about it...

I'd talk more, but I'm out of things to talk about.

 

[TomS]

Thanks, good advice. Yes, with their portfolio of models exploding it's surely hard to keep up.

We had a 3/4t Avalanche 8.1l, 4.11 rear end, good for 12,000 lbs with equalizer bars and such, but unfortunately it's gone now. Actually the boat will be on a lift all summer. Once in the spring, back out in fall, and any service needed back and forth to the dealer about 10 miles away is it. Long term, we might retire further south and tow it down there, but we'd keep it in a slip. So, towing is not a big priority. The lift is probably more of a concern, though some of these hydraulic types are really overbuilt and very stout.

Tom