Cleaning Your Toons

Yea the stuff works very well at removing the scale/ hard water marks. You can see the lake scum and other stuff melt off the side of the toons. The trick it to get the mag cleaner spread evenly over the aluminum. That's what the soft bristle brush is for. Moving the cleaner evenly over the toon and doing it in small sections ast to not let the cleaner dry. If you let it dry it will leave a white streak. You can fix it by simply re doing that section.

But yes do it in the shade. Wear gloves. And if its not windy you shouldn't have any problems with getting it in your eyes or face. But eye protection would not hurt or a respirator if your working in a non ventilated area (like under the toons in the front)
 
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Unbelievable! Great post, Geewest. Can't wait to try Eagle.
 
If you're up to it, polishing those toons will make'em look like a mirror.

After purchasing Mother's Aluminum Polish last week, I applied the polish to my toons by hand. I'm really not satisfied with the end result, even though that product is highly rated. I need to buy lacquer cleaner to get the black oxidation off the toons.

Got on UTube and found some aluminum boats/pontoons being polished with a 6" power buffer (like body shops and auto detailers use.) Power tools are the secret to metal polishing, but a quality buffer starts @ $120. AutoGeek.com also has some info on detailing boats.

I guess I'll go back to the drawing board--buying a different brand of aluminum/metal polish and a good buffer.
Bamaman............

Check out the products that Sharkhide sells. They also sell the aluminum polish that you need to use to get to that mirror finish before applying the Sharkhide. But as you already found out it's ALOT of work and takes time and a super buffer and clean rags! I tried that project a few years ago and quickly realized that I bit off alot more that I could chew and stopped. I ended up getting my pontoons acid washed by the marina and then applied the Sharkhide............
 
I've been online reading about detailing on AutoGeek.net and some other web sites. I also went into UTube to see some equipment, polishes and techniques. UTube also illustrates polishing airplanes and Airstream RV's. Aluminum can look like a mirror after polishing.

The standard 6" buffer/polishers can easily get you in trouble if too aggressive of a polish is used. They can also leave swirl marks, which require a dual action buffer and very fine polish to remove.

It appears the dual action buffers are best for novices like myself, however they're pretty expensive. Porter Cable's popular d/a buffer can be bought for $83 refurbished, which is $40 less than normal. And then you've got to buy the polishes, wool bonnets and mucho towels--preferably microfiber.

But, I still want my new boat to look new for awhile longer. It's worth the time, effort and money to make it right.

If anyone's ordering a new Bennington, go ahead and spring for the factory Sharkhide treatment for about $450. It's well worth it.
 
Bamaman, check out my blog in the "blog" section. I have beat this polishing thing to death. LOL Wished I would have sacrificed some of the shine and sharkhyded it. Go to my photos to see the results. Steve
 
Wow, thanks for all the tips! Just finished my first full season, and left the boat in the water all summer. It's a mess. These tips will really help me get her ship shape again!
 
White Diamond metal polish (available @ Advance) has done a great job of polishing my boat--with the Porter Cable buffer and a wool bonnet. It's not a mirror finish, but is close enough. I ended up putting 3 dime size squirts on the bonnet, and going back and forth, up and down from black to gray to a powder finish--1 to 1/2 minutes. It took a couple of polishings to get the shine right. Then I buffed the remaining powder off by hand.

I put the Sharkhide on the cleaned/polished toons, and immediately got some black swirls. Sharkhide is an acetone type product with solvents that'll bring up any remaining aluminum oxide.

I'm going to take the boat to the quarter car wash and get all the "black" out of the cracks--thorough soapy cleaning. With more rags, I'll rub the boat down a couple of times with lacquer cleaner and clean rags. Then, it's time to Sharkhide it a couple of times.

This is not an easy job task, but I'm retired and have the time to do it.

To most owners, it would be worth it to have the factory do the job. Sharkhide is now a Bennington factory option.
 
Bamaman, check out my blog in the "blog" section. I have beat this polishing thing to death. LOL Wished I would have sacrificed some of the shine and sharkhyded it. Go to my photos to see the results. Steve
lakebum, I read your blog until I got to the part of going through 50 sheets of each grit; that was when I realized the effort you put it in LOL. I take pride in my boat and keep it pretty clean but I bow to you on this.
 
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