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Installed powered sub today

Great info and something I want to do when our boat arrives, thanks for posting.
Not being a stereo guy, my common sense kicks in and it seems to me it would be better under the helm for a more central location in the boat. But my concern is I hear cars with subs that buzz and rattle a lot, so would the helm be more likely to vibrate and rattle with the sub under it as compared to under a rear seat?
If both locations are available, considering only sound quality (optional Kicker KMC10 stereo and Kicker Speakers) which location would be best?
 
I’d say there is more potential for rattles under the helm. If you don’t have underskinning then it’s fairly easy to run power and ground cables to wherever you want. This sub was great for me as I didn’t have to run any wires directly to the head unit which would’ve been a pain with the underskinning. It worked out great as there’s lots of room under the swing back lounger and that’s where the batteries are so it was super easy to wire in.
As for sound quality, I don’t think it would matter all that much. In a central location it might be more “balanced” I guess but if it’s further back you might just have to turn the gain up slightly higher to compensate.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I have full under-skinning including the bow wave tammer, so I guess under the back seat with the batteries is the best (easiest install). I will have the stern radius seats so I'll have to wait to measure and see if the 12" sub will fit.
I'm probably over thinking it, but I wonder if turning it up for people in the front would then bee too much for the people in the back?
 
I think you'll likely find that bass is omnidirectional so while you'll hear it, it shouldn't sound like it's coming from any particular place. Does that help?
 
Michiman said:
I think you'll likely find that bass is omnidirectional so while you'll hear it, it shouldn't sound like it's coming from any particular place. Does that help?
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Exactly. Just like a powered sub in home theatre systems. You feel/hear the bass but you don’t “hear” where it’s coming from. That’s why they don’t have to be positioned and aimed like the higher frequency speakers. That being said, it will be louder if your right beside it compared to 20 feet away. I’d try it at the back as it’s the most convenient and then move it later if your not happy.
 
Baja 252 said:
Thanks for the quick reply. I have full under-skinning including the bow wave tammer, so I guess under the back seat with the batteries is the best (easiest install). I will have the stern radius seats so I'll have to wait to measure and see if the 12" sub will fit.
I'm probably over thinking it, but I wonder if turning it up for people in the front would then bee too much for the people in the back?
Click to expand...
Hehe, my cousin and I just mounted an Evil SSA 15" sub powered by TWO 2000W amplifiers!! And these aren't the Walmart special 2000W amps, these are high end sound competition amps. In his Toyota Tundra truck. Once we get it dialed in it should be able to hit 148dB. So to tie this back into the topic, I've yet to see "too much" haha
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WOW! That's a pretty substantial commitment in more ways than one...
 
Ok I'm on the "band" wagon and ordered my 12" powered sub and it will arrive tomorrow. Where did you get the 8 gauge power wire without spending an arm and a leg?
 
I actually had enough laying around from other installs that I’ve done.
You’re best bet is to probably go to a local stereo shop and tell them how much you need. They have it in bulk rolls so you can get any length that you want. Just get 2 different colors for power and ground. You can buy 8 gauge amp install kits on eBay, amazon, etc but they are usually poor quality and you won’t need the rca cables or remote wire (if using a speaker to get signal) and they only usually come with about a foot of ground cable because in a vehicle you ground to chassis.
I’d also recommend getting a circuit breaker instead of a fuse holder so you can reset it instead of hunting for a fuse if you happen to blow one. Stereo shops have the fancy ones but you can get them at parts supply stores for a lot cheaper. They’re not as pretty but who cares.
 
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I used one that looks something like this. They’re cheap and will automatically reset when electrical problem is fixed. There’s nothing wrong with the regular style fuse holders (besides being a lot more expensive) but just be sure to have a couple spare fuses on board in case you blow one.
 
Mine arrived today. Used, in very good condition, from Amazon. It did not have the remote bass control knob or cable though. From what I read, you don't need it to use the sub. It just attenuates (or turns down) the bass from a remote location. Do I have that right?
 
Anyone know if the majority of the wiring harness connectors under the helm are Deutsch 2 or 4 pin
connectors?
 
kaydano said:
Mine arrived today. Used, in very good condition, from Amazon. It did not have the remote bass control knob or cable though. From what I read, you don't need it to use the sub. It just attenuates (or turns down) the bass from a remote location. Do I have that right?
Click to expand...

That is correct. It’s just for added convenience.
 
Renegade34 said:
....If you don’t have underskinning then it’s fairly easy to run power and ground cables to wherever you want. This sub was great for me as I didn’t have to run any wires directly to the head unit which would’ve been a pain with the underskinning.
Click to expand...

I have a question on this. How does the SUB provide BASS to the songs if you are not connecting to the HEAD unit of the stereo? Am I missing something?
 
If you connect it to a speaker, you pick up the bass from it. I believe the best connection is to the sub outs on the head unit. It really isn't hard to run cables under the deck. I've done it on our lift as we don't have a trailer.
 
Yes, it gets the signal from speaker wire. It’s not any better or worse than connecting rca cables to the head unit. You wouldn’t hear a difference. If you have a dedicated sub output on your head unit then you will have control of sub volume and frequency from the head unit as opposed to using the controls on the sub.
 
If I weren't able to do the SUB right now, do you think it would be any benefit to swap out the existing factory QM-650 speakers that came with the boat and replace with these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4902Q...colid=1JBDWS2646MY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it).

I'm not quite ready to tackle running a bunch of wires on my boat yet, so I probably wouldn't be able to take advantage of the LED part of these speakers. There are only 2 wires to each of the existing QM-650 speakers. I'm mainly looking for improved sound performance if possible with the existing Kicker KMC1 unit.

Think it's worth it with that head unit by itself?
QM-650.jpg QM-650wires.jpg
 
I'm sure it will make some improvement as those are pretty decent speakers. I think you'll gain a bit more clarity but not much more bass (if that's what you're looking for). Putting too much bass to speakers like that tends to make them sound muddy. If you really want to improve the sound of your system take the plunge and install a dedicated sub. If you installed those speakers running only mids and highs and let the sub handle the lows you'll notice a substantial improvement in the way your stereo will sound. Adding a sub to your existing speakers will yield better results than swapping the speakers out but leaving the sub out of the equation.
 
Holy cow that Rockford Fosgate sub really thumps!!! Barely have the gain on and I'm afraid it will break a weld and sink my boat.
 
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