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Installed powered sub today

You do need a fuse (ideally within 18” of the battery). You can also use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. The advantage of using a circuit breaker is you can reset it if it trips instead of replacing a fuse. Your local shop I’m sure will have whatever you want/need. They likely have the prepackaged kits too if you prefer to go that way. Usually the best prices are online but usually you can do some negotiating at the local shop if the prices are out of line. You also have to be careful ordering online as sometimes the quality is crap. I’ve ordered 8 gauge kits before and the wire had a super thick casing on it to look like 8 gauge but the actual wire inside was more like 12 gauge.
 
I don't know if anyone has used one of these, but I think I'm going to try adding this to my current KMC1 system.
Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VVYL46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This basically is a $119 inline amplifier that connects directly to the speaker wires going into the head unit and the processor in the AMP boost the signal up to 45watts RMS per channel.
My current Kicker KMC1 is 25W x 4 speakers RMS so I'm hoping for a simple solution to boost my output of my entire stereo without having to run more wires for a big amp or make a head unit change out.
I will let you know how it goes. :D
 
Renegade34 said:
You do need a fuse (ideally within 18” of the battery). You can also use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. The advantage of using a circuit breaker is you can reset it if it trips instead of replacing a fuse.
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Renegade, I do have a "Safety Hub" that lists things like "Kicker Amp: 40 AMP" and "Roswell Amp: 150 AMP". Seems like I could tap into that, right?
 
Shouldn’t be an issue unless it’s too much extra draw and trips it. The 150 amp breaker is too much for it I’d say. The powered sub would likely be damaged before it trips a 150 amp. If it were me I’d just get a dedicated fuse or breaker for the sub. I’m not sure what the kicker amp draws but if it’s only a 40 amp breaker you could easily trip it with the sub and the kicker amp together.
However, the power cable that feeds the hub would be a good spot to get your power from (assuming it’s more convenient than the battery).
 
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DanielG said:
I don't know if anyone has used one of these, but I think I'm going to try adding this to my current KMC1 system.
Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VVYL46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This basically is a $119 inline amplifier that connects directly to the speaker wires going into the head unit and the processor in the AMP boost the signal up to 45watts RMS per channel.
My current Kicker KMC1 is 25W x 4 speakers RMS so I'm hoping for a simple solution to boost my output of my entire stereo without having to run more wires for a big amp or make a head unit change out.
I will let you know how it goes. :D
Click to expand...

Being Alpine I’m sure it’ll work great. They don’t make junk.
 
That fuse adds a layer of protection you really should have. I like to use the Stinger circuit breakers instead but either one will prevent a fire in the event you get a short. Just my .02.
 
Renegade34 said:
Being Alpine I’m sure it’ll work great. They don’t make junk.
Click to expand...
We have an Alpine head unit on our boat since it was new in 2006.
 
Renegade34 said:
Shouldn’t be an issue unless it’s too much extra draw and trips it. The 150 amp breaker is too much for it I’d say. The powered sub would likely be damaged before it trips a 150 amp. If it were me I’d just get a dedicated fuse or breaker for the sub. I’m not sure what the kicker amp draws but if it’s only a 40 amp breaker you could easily trip it with the sub and the kicker amp together.
However, the power cable that feeds the hub would be a good spot to get your power from (assuming it’s more convenient than the battery).
Click to expand...
As an FYI, I’ve been running my 10” off a 40 amp fuse in my Safety Hub for the last year.
 
DaveyJ said:
As an FYI, I’ve been running my 10” off a 40 amp fuse in my Safety Hub for the last year.
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Is there anything else running off of that feed? Usually you would would use a fuse appropriate for the current draw for whatever you are feeding (plus a bit extra). If there’s enough capacity to run other things (especially something that draws a considerable amount) then the initial fuse isn’t really sized appropriately. I don’t think that sub draws a whole bunch but it is a 300 watt amp so it isn’t peanuts either.
 
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Renegade34 said:
Is there anything else running off of that feed? Usually you would would use a fuse appropriate for the current draw for whatever you are feeding (plus a bit extra). If there’s enough capacity to run other things (especially something that draws a considerable amount) then the initial fuse isn’t really sized appropriately. I don’t think that sub draws a whole bunch but it is a 300 watt amp so it isn’t peanuts either.
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I think (assuming Google is right) the amperage draw is watts divided by volts which would be 300/12 = 25 amps. This makes some sense since there are 2 built in 15 amp blade style fuses in the control panel of the sub itself. I used the location (#2 in the pic) I did because it was empty and labeled as “radio amplifier 40 amp”.
 
DaveyJ said:
View attachment 23024
I think (assuming Google is right) the amperage draw is watts divided by volts which would be 300/12 = 25 amps. This makes some sense since there are 2 built in 15 amp blade style fuses in the control panel of the sub itself. I used the location (#2 in the pic) I did because it was empty and labeled as “radio amplifier 40 amp”.
Click to expand...

Perfect! Just like it was meant to be! :D
 
Finally installed the 12” sub yesterday! Let me just say wow! What a difference it made it the sound quality of the entire system. Kept the original Kicker speakers and KC10 head unit. All this thing needed was some low end and this speaker gave it to me! Very pleased.
 
RodEarl74 said:
Finally installed the 12” sub yesterday! Let me just say wow! What a difference it made it the sound quality of the entire system. Kept the original Kicker speakers and KC10 head unit. All this thing needed was some low end and this speaker gave it to me! Very pleased.
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I'm sure it sounds great while at rest but how about underway?
 
Michiman said:
I'm sure it sounds great while at rest but how about underway?
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It sounds good at cruising speed. When going WOT you do have to turn it up pretty loud to overcome the wind noise.
 
Ran my wires today and will install the sub next weekend. The SafetyHub (watched a youtube video by the mfg) is designed for such applications so won't be going the in-line fuse route. However, I do have a question: I still need to splice into the speaker wire but was wondering if anyone knows what wire is supposed to be positive: blue or gray?
 
Michiman said:
Ran my wires today and will install the sub next weekend. The SafetyHub (watched a youtube video by the mfg) is designed for such applications so won't be going the in-line fuse route. However, I do have a question: I still need to splice into the speaker wire but was wondering if anyone knows what wire is supposed to be positive: blue or gray?
Click to expand...
Not answering your question but giving another option. Ran mine off the antenna power off the back of the head unit. Turns the sub on and off with the head unit. The sub install kit I bought had a long remote power cable with it. All 3 I installed or helped install are set up this way.
 
Blue
 
DaveyJ said:
Not answering your question but giving another option. Ran mine off the antenna power off the back of the head unit. Turns the sub on and off with the head unit. The sub install kit I bought had a long remote power cable with it. All 3 I installed or helped install are set up this way.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the idea but I'm keeping the entire installation in the stern area near the batteries so I don't have to deal with running wires to the helm. Might work for others so thanks for sharing!
 
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