Stern Tie Downs

Boomers dad

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When I bought my boat the dealer told me that the stern did not need to be tied down while trailering. I disagreed. I am getting ready to take a trip next week to Table Rock Lake 200+ miles each way and I'm trying too decide the best way to tie down the stern. The 2 u-bolts on the rear might work but with my model the motor pod is in the way. There are 2 molded eyebolts? welded to the rear of each log and I am wondering if that would be a better attachment point. It says to not lift the boat with them but I think they would be good to hold it down. What do you guys think?
 
When I bought my boat the dealer told me that the stern did not need to be tied down while trailering. I disagreed. I am getting ready to take a trip next week to Table Rock Lake 200+ miles each way and I'm trying too decide the best way to tie down the stern. The 2 u-bolts on the rear might work but with my model the motor pod is in the way. There are 2 molded eyebolts? welded to the rear of each log and I am wondering if that would be a better attachment point. It says to not lift the boat with them but I think they would be good to hold it down. What do you guys think?
Mine cam with 2 cam-lock straps for the stern. the dealer went from the eyelets on the pontoons to the trailer light brackets that have holes drilled in the top. I trailered mine about 200 miles from the dealers with no problems. I hope this helps. When I trailer mine it seem s the bow wants to bounce, was wondering if this is normal.
 
Thats funny. My dealer told me to strap down the front ( which I do ) to keep from tearing up the carpet on trailer bumpers. I use a cargo strap and have to loosen the winch hook to get the strap hook on, then retighten. Holds the front nice and tight. Thanks for the info. Anybody else?
 
When I picked up my boat (2575 QXi) from the dealer I purchased it from (which was not the closest dealer), I was told additional straps/tie downs were not necessary/required. Said boat was too heavy to go anywhere... Dealer mentioned he transported the boat across several states without straps... only relying on hand-winch-bow connection...

In conversation with my son-in-law, who's in the Coast Guard, he mentioned in some/most states, straps/tie-downs are required. I purchased boat in NC, but I live in GA, and without even checking to see if it's the law or not, I got a set of straps anyway... I connect my straps to holes already in the trailer (probably for staps/tie downs) and to holes in the back of my toon support frames.

I've attached a pic of the stern of my boat (when I purchased it--before getting the straps)... I've indicated where I hook the straps to, although you cannot see the hole in the trailer in this pic. I'll go get a current pic if you would like one!
 
I had that problem tearing up the front bunk carpet also. I went to Lowes and bought 2 plastic gutter connectors and put them between the front rubrail and trailer bunk. They slip over your front rubrail and clip on nicely. It will save the marks on the rubrail and stop tearing your carpet. I will post pics. if needed.
 
Every boat design is different, but you can usually find a way to tie down darn near anything, and you can get ratchet straps from a hardware store in all sorts of sizes and lengths.

I've seen more than one person who simply tied the logs to the bunks with those straps.

One simple rule of thumb...

Before you use ANYTHING as a tie-down point, ask yourself... If you had to hang by a rope from that strap and be suspended over a it of ravenous zombies, do you think it would hold?

By the same token, keep in mind...

This isn't Waterford crystal we're talking about... They're boats, and sturdy ones at that.
 
Guess my dealer was doing me a favor when I picked up my boat - he already had the stern tiedown straps installed (from the eyes on the top of the pontoons to holes in the trailer). I have added a bow tiedown strap that runs from where the winch strap connects to the boat down to a trailer crossmember.

I don't think I would rely on the idea that the "boat was too heavy to go anywhere"; I know I don't want to test if the boat and trailer move in unison when I drive over a curb or a pothole :eek:
 
As I read this post an image kept popping into my head. It was an image of an alligator with his mouth taped shut. In my opinion, like the alligator, it doesn't take much to hold the boat down. It does however, take lots to pick it up. I would think the eyes in the back of the toons would be sufficient for strapping down.

If you get into a real "poop hits the fan" kind of deal, you might be proud to have a little extra hold down support.

Good luck and happy boating.

Andy
 
About once every couple of years, I see a boat off its trailer on the side of the road. Things can happen quickly when trailering a boat. Always use tie downs.

I purchased a pair of jet skis 10 years ago (my first boats). When I was taking delivery, I noticed these skis were not strapped down in the back. The dealer said it wasn't really necessary. I purchased straps right there at the shop just in case. The dealer is no longer selling boats.
 
I bought 3 Boatbuckles from my dealer ...You can also get them at Cabelas or Gander montain they have 2" nylon ratchet straps and a rubberized hook ...Just pull out the strap hook the eye in the toon and tighten down ...Unhook them and they retract back in the body works great for me I fastened them right to the trailer w/supplied hardware.One in the front for the bow and 2on the rear of the trailer ..
 
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Thanks guys. I have the stern strapped down and ready to go this weekend :D
 
Every boat no matter what size or type needs to be tied securely to the trailer in the back and front. Many years ago I had a bolt on the spare tire bracket brake and my spare tire from my F150 fell out onto the road. My boat ran over my spare truck tire!!!!!! Luckily I had my transom tie down straps on and when the boat and trailer came up in the air they come back down together and the boat was still in place on the trailer. One of the straps was damaged and when I replaced it I bought a much heavier duty pair. This episode taught me a valuable lesson I will never forget. Also I was very lucky to have been going only about 35 mph because at 65 I may have tossed the trailer high enough to flip it over.

A friend of mine told me one time he curbed his trailer real hard at an intersection and the boat came up and fell off the side of the trailer. There he was with his boat attached to the trailer at the bow, but laying on it's side on the pavement.

Not securing the boat with proper strength tie downs is inviting disaster.
 
Thanks for sharing that story, Last Dollar. I now have a vivid picture in my mind of that boat in the intersection. And, I will not forget the tie-downs!
 
Regarding the comment about the bow of the boat moving or "bouncing". With a bunk style trailer the bow should rest firmly against the trailer bow stop. You should not be able to bounce the boat at all.....grab a tune and give it a good shake or shove....if you see the bow moving you need to move the stop forward as the boat weight is not centered on the trailer planks. Towing with even a little bounce makes for difficult handling and encourages the trailer to wonder form side to side. I use two straps on the rear and two on the from, from tube eye down to trailer tie hole in the trailer frame.
 
Actually lack of tongue weight is the cause of most trailer sway. My tongue weight is approx 15% and I have no trailer sway at any speed. If the strap on the front of the boat is loose ( or no strap )the boat will bounce slightly up and down. This is not due to improper trailer set up. I will bet that if you leave your front straps off you will see the bow moving ( slightly )up and down. This will cause you to tear up the carpet on the stops. I posted this because I would hate to see someone get into adjusting the trailer bunks moving axles etc when all they needed was a strap on the front. :)
 
Bow bouncing. Two different issues, but related . 100% agree you should run front strap/s. Properly adjusted it should be pretty hard to push on the bow toons and see movement up & down. My 2250 rest very firmly againt the stop and hardly moves at all, with the bow strap it's rock solid (less any bunk deflexion). The boat must first rest on the bunks so that there is weight on the toons at the bow sufficient to keep them stable irrespective of where the axles are. Once the boat is properly on the bunk, you should also check for the proper tongue weight. My duel axle karavan is pretty forgiving with axle position. I tow my own 2250 and my brothers 2050 and all I need to do is adjust the bow stop. Tongue weight is fine with one axle setting for both. If the boat is not forward enough on the bunks the nose will bounce no matter where the axles are and how hard you try to strap down.
 
I believe Ranger45 was refering to the boat bouncing on the trailer ( At least I was )not the boat and trailer bouncing together. The boat can and will bounce on the trailer even if the trailer is set up properly unless strapped down front and back.

Maybe we should start another topic on how to properly set up a trailer for pontoon boats. Then again maybe not :lol:
 
My dealer had the rear stern tie downs already on, with their logo of course. I bought the factory option for the front verticle bunks that touch the rubrail. They are 2 aluminum plates molded in the shape of the rubrail and set between the rubrail and the bunks. No marks and no tearing up of carpet

Todd
 
I was not talking about the boat and trailer moving/bouncing together, i was talking about the bow of the boat moving up & down on the trailer . That should not happen if the boat is properly set on the trailer and a tie down is used (again less some small deflection of bunks flexing which does translate to the boat)..but again that should not be large visible movement and tearing of the carpet at the bow top due to that rubbing.
 
Can you post a pic of those please.

My dealer had the rear stern tie downs already on, with their logo of course. I bought the factory option for the front verticle bunks that touch the rubrail. They are 2 aluminum plates molded in the shape of the rubrail and set between the rubrail and the bunks. No marks and no tearing up of carpet

Todd
 
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