What size battery to add

Thanks for the link.  By the looks of it I could add 1 battery now to power my added lights, keep the stereo on the current starting battery.  They would be isolated from each other during use but combined while the engine is running to charge..
 
Thanks for the link.  By the looks of it I could add 1 battery now to power my added lights, keep the stereo on the current starting battery.  They would be isolated from each other during use but combined while the engine is running to charge..
Correct.
 
Thats exactly what I was looking for!  Thank you for your help.  Im ordering the parts now from amazon. Im thinking it would be smart to run the large gauge wire to my helm now to make adding the amps and other goodies easier later on.  I assume just connecting both + and - to their own buss bar under the helm is what most guys do?

Where did you get your battery hold downs Tom?
 
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Thats exactly what I was looking for!  Thank you for your help.  Im ordering the parts now from amazon. Im thinking it would be smart to run the large gauge wire to my helm now to make adding the amps and other goodies easier later on.  I assume just connecting both + and - to their own buss bar under the helm is what most guys do?

Where did you get your battery hold downs Tom?
Sorry, for the life of me I can't remember where. They're nothing special, not like the billet ones, which are $$$.

I wish I had run heavy gauge + and - under mine to the helm for "some day"  :(  I tried to get Bennington to put a conduit in before the waveshield went on but they said no.
 
Yeah im gonna work on conduit of some sort while I have it out of the water the next few days to service it and add in the goodies.  Ill take some pictures and post them.  Maybe I will figure out an easy way to run it.... 15 years of general construction may come in handy for that  B)
 
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I went with Northstar batteries. 3 group 31 for stereo and a 27 for starting and in boat power. Did a lot of researching and the Northstar seemed like an amazing battery. Probably overkill for your application, but so far so good! 

 

 

 

Derrick if I were to buy just one battery from Northstar which model/size would you go with....that 27?  I have no desire to upgrade to 2 batteries.  Even with my 400W amp I have never had a dead battery.  So the battery will be used for everything, obviously.  I do not have any LED lights or fishing stuff, etc.
What size do you have right now? I mean bigger is always better when it comes to batteries!! Haha, the biggest positive about the Northstar batteries is how low they can be discharged without ruining the battery. I don't charge them off my motor for the simple reason that because of the low resistance, these things will take whatever kind of charge power you want to give them, which may in turn cause problems for the motors charging system. This is from the old Bennington rep whose family also owns a dealership. They had problems with guys having multi battery setups charging big stereo batteries and causing problems because the motors charging units were running at 100% all the time. You won't have that issue running a couple batteries, but if you have 4 really low batteries, it could cause problems. Also just as a quick note for everyone, read your owners manual, some motors don't like some different types of batteries (deep cycle, gel, tppl, etc.) 
 
^^^ On my old boat I had three batteries to run the stereo, and they were isolated from the motor charging system. I had an onboard charger and a onboard generator (if needed) to run the stereo. I also would not hook more than two batteries to the motors charging system.
 
You can overload the alternator. It's not designed to run at full capacity all the time
 
My previous boats I had lights and a stereo system, no charging system and 1 battery.  I never ever had a problem with draining my battery.  Why is this different for Pontoon boats?  I would run my stereo for hours on end at the beach, boat always started right up.  It was a merc 5.0 I/O
 
I don't know if its going to be a problem really but Id rather be safe then stuck!  Just got off the phone with a local Yamaha dealer and the service guy recommended 2 Deka Group 27 battery.  Said they work well with the Yamaha alternator and charge quick enough that I most likely would not need a separate charger. They have a 170 reserve for $130 each. It is not an AGM battery though and everything I've read has said to use that type of battery.
 
I don't know if its going to be a problem really but Id rather be safe then stuck!  Just got off the phone with a local Yamaha dealer and the service guy recommended 2 Deka Group 27 battery.  Said they work well with the Yamaha alternator and charge quick enough that I most likely would not need a separate charger. They have a 170 reserve for $130 each. It is not an AGM battery though and everything I've read has said to use that type of battery.
I don't blame you for wanting more than one battery, I now have 2 with a transfer switch etc., on my pontoon boat.  I always carried an extra one with me, just never needed it.  I just keep reading about all these elaborate battery systems with chargers on Pontoon boats and I cannot figure out why they are needed.
 
Im adding in LED lights that in total will have 22amp draw. Thats before adding in upgraded stereo equipment. The lights won't be used all that much I know but the stereo will. 

Ive talked to 3 different Yamaha approved dealers on my lake this morning. They all have their own opinions but one thing they all agreed on was nothing over a group 27 unless I'm going to isolate it completely and use and external charger. One told me an AGM is a waste of money.  Its amazing at the difference of opinions.
 
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My previous boats I had lights and a stereo system, no charging system and 1 battery.  I never ever had a problem with draining my battery.  Why is this different for Pontoon boats?  I would run my stereo for hours on end at the beach, boat always started right up.  It was a merc 5.0 I/O
I had a 1000 watt sub amp running two 12's and a 600 watt multi-channel amp running the rest of the speakers on my last boat. In Havasu we often find a spot and stay there all day, and the stereo runs all day. Before I was running AGM's I had three group 27 Interstates running the stereo. I could kill the batteries in about 5 hours, and would have to start up the generator. When I switched to the AGM's I was good for about 10 hours, but sometimes we would be on the water longer than that. It helped that I had dock power and an onboard charger to recharge everynight, but a good size stereo will drain batteries fairly quickly.
 
Im adding in LED lights that in total will have 22amp draw. Thats before adding in upgraded stereo equipment. The lights won't be used all that much I know but the stereo will. 

Ive talked to 3 different Yamaha approved dealers on my lake this morning. They all have their own opinions but one thing they all agreed on was nothing over a group 27 unless I'm going to isolate it completely and use and external charger. One told me an AGM is a waste of money.  Its amazing at the difference of opinions.
Agm's are definitely worth it IMO. I was going on 5 years on my last boats batteries, and they still ran like new. My wet cell batteries would lose capacity every year, and after three years were completely worthless. A quality AGM can last 10 years without losing capacity.
 
I would agree that the AGM is a far better battery.  The one guy was just concerned about the draw on the alternator.  Worried I would burn it out.
 
Hmmm, I did not think AGM's would draw more amps. I run AGM's in all my vehicles. Trucks, Jeeps, Offroad toys, Boats etc... I have never had any negative experiences with them.
 
 ​
I just found this on the net                                                                                                                                  ​
Now lets look at some of the direct advantages of these AGM batteries.
Red_Swirl.gif
these batteries are totally sealed, ‘transport’ classed as spill proof, never needing topping up with water, ever!

Red_Swirl.gif
because of this they can be mounted inside a car, caravan, motorhome etc and only need to be vented to atmosphere, they do not need to be in a sealed box vented to the outside like wet batteries, and can be mounted on their sides or ends if needed.

Red_Swirl.gif
because of their very low internal resistance these batteries will fully charge at a lower voltage, and accept a much larger charge current, so when charging from a standard car/truck alternator these batteries will all but fully charge, and fast too, in about 2.5 to 3 hours! (with the correct cabling and dual battery system->>click here for details<<)

Red_Swirl.gif
they can occasionally be discharged much much deeper than conventional deep cycles without major damage.

Red_Swirl.gif
these batteries when left unattended only self discharge at the rate of up to 3% per month, and even after 12 months sitting idle can be recharged and put back into full service without any ill effects. On the other hand a standard deep cycle battery if treated the same way will have destroyed it's self, it will no longer hold a good charge, and is sadly ready for the rubbish tip and recycling, not cycling!

- See more at: http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/agm.htm#sthash.nToXq3rI.dpuf
 
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Hmmm, I did not think AGM's would draw more amps. I run AGM's in all my vehicles. Trucks, Jeeps, Offroad toys, Boats etc... I have never had any negative experiences with them.
Are you running an isolator like the Blue Seas?  I think I'm gonna go with the Die Hard Platinum since they are made by odyssey and my local sears has a few in stock. 
 
 ​
I just found this on the net                                                                                                                                  ​
Now lets look at some of the direct advantages of these AGM batteries.
Red_Swirl.gif
these batteries are totally sealed, ‘transport’ classed as spill proof, never needing topping up with water, ever!

Red_Swirl.gif
because of this they can be mounted inside a car, caravan, motorhome etc and only need to be vented to atmosphere, they do not need to be in a sealed box vented to the outside like wet batteries, and can be mounted on their sides or ends if needed.

Red_Swirl.gif
because of their very low internal resistance these batteries will fully charge at a lower voltage, and accept a much larger charge current, so when charging from a standard car/truck alternator these batteries will all but fully charge, and fast too, in about 2.5 to 3 hours! (with the correct cabling and dual battery system->>click here for details<<)

Red_Swirl.gif
they can occasionally be discharged much much deeper than conventional deep cycles without major damage.

Red_Swirl.gif
these batteries when left unattended only self discharge at the rate of up to 3% per month, and even after 12 months sitting idle can be recharged and put back into full service without any ill effects. On the other hand a standard deep cycle battery if treated the same way will have destroyed it's self, it will no longer hold a good charge, and is sadly ready for the rubbish tip and recycling, not cycling!

- See more at: http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/agm.htm#sthash.nToXq3rI.dpuf
I agree with everything it says.  Just interesting to me how the dealer looks at it.  
 
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