Back to the main site

YOUR pontoon ideas!

  • Thread starter Retired Team Member1
  • Start date
Options that may be appreciated.

1) Chrome plating on the "Bow Light Housing" . The present polished aluminum finish deteriates quickly and requires constant attention.

2) Improved and/or bow lights. The present lumin's generated are not adequate.

3) Bimini top saddle pins rub and puncture the adjactent upholstery. A simple design change to the effected saddle will cure that problem.

4) The patented Bimini top arm latch's have quick connect jaws. Those jaws are made of something like nylon or delrin. Therefore, the latching tolerances change from time to time, creating an unsafe connection. The solution may include a slide keeper or a similar design, using Stainless Steel ILO synthetic.

5) The present Bimini top Ht. may provide lower ambient shade temp, where shade is created. However, the point of infinity created by the tall cover "reduces" shading over a large area. The long arms are vulnerable to damage, kiting, are not user friendly and are overwieght.

6) The present Bimini top arms/support legs lack rigidity. Increase the material wall thickness or install a liner. (The liner can be round or sqaure tubing)

7) You may presently offer or may argue against SS cruiser dock bumpers and holders. However, locating and storing bumpers is often confusing, and they are often inferior sized for the application. Some deck designs would lend better than others. For those with area behind the transom railing, the holders could be purpoesly located. For those with area ahead of the bow railing, there is room, all subject to stress.

What did I win ???
 
I pick my 2012 2275 RCW Limited up this Friday. So I have not had the opportunity to use it and provide any insight, I would suggest one change that I see on my other high end boats. I know on the 2275 you can upgrade to a stereo remote in the lounger. How about placing one on the the rear wall of the boat so you could change the radio while being on the rear platform? The one on the lounger is great, but only really useful if you are in the lounger. Even better, work with Sony to create a waterproof key chain type remote control. I know Alpine makes one, and they work well. Allowing you to be able to change the radio anywhere in the boat, or out of the boat.

Steve
 
This Date, 3/18/2012 The Bennington CTO has my contribution. This pocket patent has the usual 12 months for testing and completion. The intelectual patent is for protecting the idea of creating a simple latching device. The device may be used in various applications. One such application is that of securing the Bimini top. Other applications may include attaching dock lines, throw cushions, dock bumpers and other similar uses.

The device is similar to an air hose "Quick Disconnect". Two parts create a male and female design, quickly connected or disconnected. One of the two parts will be attached to the stationary object, while the other part will be attached to the mobile object. The material used will be subject to BOM, as required.
 
KC_Steve shows pictures of a very nice, "New" Bennington. He should be proud of that boat for a long time.

While looking at those pictures, it comes to mind, the tie down straps pulled down over the tube ends may "burn" the Aluminum. Second, the goal posts (guide posts) all look to be the same Ht. and either metal or PVC over metal. When the trailer is on the ramp, in the water, the rear tube will probably be submerged. The second post may be showing and the front tube high enough to catch the bow. Subject to those assumptions being correct, the safe load may entail backing the truck as the boat comes on the bunks. Or, cutting the posts to length, having all posts extend the same Ht. above water line, when the trailer is at the loading water depth. Last, the posts may serve better if padded, such as a protected foam tube fitted over the ridgid post.
 
There seems to be considerable interest in pwer bimini tops......Have you considered designing an accuator kit, for retofitting non power tops ?
 
Whereas, The surge brake coupler equipped marine trailer is often "dunked" (Placed by the towing vehicle under water) for the purpose of loading and off-loading boats. Logic applies, the trailer electrical system as well as the tow vehicle electrical system may be subjected to catastrophic risk, during the "dunking" event. Risk of failure is possible during at least two examples. The trailer to vehicle electrical system design includes a pressure solenoid valve. The solenoid valve is controlled by the 12 VDC circuit that is parallel to that of back up lights, alarms and etc. The solenoid valve is energized by closing the back up circuit. Once energized, the valve closes and prevents brake fluid from flowing to the trailer braking actuators. Thus, the trailer can be safely moved in reverse, without risk of damage to related components.

Possible risk of electrical failure occurs when the energized trailer is "dunked". The operator then prudently, first disconnects the electrical system before reverse travel of the trailer/vehicle combination. However, the solenoid valve then no longer has access to 12 VDC current. The coupler may then engage the designed brake sytem, preventing reverse motion without induced stress to the trailer, trailer braking system, tow vehicle and related components.

Subject to not disconnecting the connector, risk then has the surge brake coupler as designed, engaging the braking system and causing resulting damage.

The solution involves use of a Diode circuit, operator controlled manual toggle switch and appropriate rechargeable battery. The operator will disconnect the trailer to vehicle connector, move the manual switch to "on" and in so doing, cause 12 VDC dedicated battery current to control the solenoid as the vehicle back-up circuit would, otherwise. Whereas, the operator may fail to move the switch to "off" when re-connecting the coupler connector a diode circuit will provide current to flow as normal. The circuit may also be designed to provide emergency battery lighting.

NOTE: A well tested circuit may potentially be designed to allow user to operate the said toggle switch without need to disconnect the electrical tailer/vehicle connector.

The battery and afore circuit will be mounted above potential dunking water line.

The afore device may include a receptacle socket for connecting the solenoid only to the back-up/emergency battery.

The second option for reducing back-up stress is use of a trailer builder provided coupler/actuator "lock out". The builder would provide a hole in the coupler to prevent the coupler from sliding to engage the master cylinder. A flagged pin would be inserted into the provided hole, preventing the coupler from moving during reverse back-up.
 
Just got my 2575 RCW two weeks ago....so I am new to the Bennington brand.....but here is what I already have noticed that could be improved:

1. On this particular boat model there is no good place to hang a fender. The square rails fit flush to the panel so you can't fit rope/hanger behind them. There are three vertical round struts along the side of the boat that you can barely fit fender rope behind.....and you certainly can't fit an adjutable strap (my dealer tried and scratched the paint). The problem is worse on the starboard side because there is a gate there and you are forced to hang the fender from the bimini support. Looks awful.

2. There should be three table pedestal floor plugs for supporting the table.....not just the one in front of the mid-boat sofa. There should be one between the rear loungers and one up front for the main sofa. They should come with plastic caps to cover the two holes you are not using. That way you can move your table around to whatever location makes the most sense.

3. The GPS/Fishfinder should be center mounted on the dashboard for easier viewing.

4. The solid panel rear gate that separates the rear loungers from the main cabin should have a mechanism that locks into the "open" position when desired. Putting on the bimini cover and playpen cover is a maddening exercise when I keep walking into that gate because it has swung back toward the closed position.

5. The motor throttle should be mounted forward on the fiberglass helm station (to the right of the steering wheel). It's current location next to the right armrest is sort of awkward to access for someone like me with long arms.

6. Manuals and boat documentation is very poor. The info that is supplied is VERY OLD, and not specific to the model I own. I have so many questions about switches, and dashboard guages.....but the manual doesn't adequately address the ones on my model boat. Also, improved manuals should be available for PDF download from the website.

that's all for now!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Truth..Check out my bumper tie offs in my gallery. Works well on my older style rails, may not look right on the newer style rails. Four on each side with s.s. trigger snaps makes it really versatile. Steve
 
If you have Springfield tables, they have plugs for the post holes.

One of your existing gates should have a plastic bracket screwed to the floor to hold the gate open, order another and install it on the problem door. (my machinist buddy made mine)

I would really like a good wiring diagram, I feel like they have a standard color code, so it would be nice to know what all those unused plugs under the console were intended for. Steve
 
Thanks Lakebum. My point on the pedestal table was not so much plugs for the post holes.......but that there aren't enough post holes. There is only one on the boat which forces you to mount the table ONLY in front of the mid-cabin sofa. Bennington should add post holes in front of the main salon sofa and between the loungers. That way you can move the table around.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Truthinthedetails said:
Thanks Lakebum. My point on the pedestal table was not so much plugs for the post holes.......but that there aren't enough post holes. There is only one on the boat which forces you to mount the table ONLY in front of the mid-cabin sofa. Bennington should add post holes in front of the main salon sofa and between the loungers. That way you can move the table around.
Click to expand...
Good call, it would be handy!

Derrick
 
Lakebum - that would be a partial solution. The Bennington post hole is recessed into the deck and is flush to it. Any aftermarket post hole would have to be bolted to the deck and sit above it....which is a bit of a walking hazard.
 
Truth, clarify "flush with the deck " for me. My '05 has holes drilled in the deck for the post part but with a much wider "hat" that screws to the floor. Not quiet flush but close. It might stick up 1/4" but is beveled from the edge to the middle. Newer boats like yours might have a better receptacle than my old one. Thanks, Steve
 
Lakebum - what I mean is that the standard "table post hole" on the bennington is recessed into the deck approx 2"-3" in order for enough of the table column to lock into place. In order to place an aftermarket table somewhere else on the boat, I would have to bolt their "table post holder" to the top of the deck. Which results in something that is not flush to the deck. My suggestion to Bennington is drill three "table post holes"....one in the front cabin, one in the mid-cabin and one between the rear loungers. In addition add some sort of plactic cap that fits into the hole so that the two holes not being currently use to support the table are flush to the deck, and doesn't represent a toe stubbing or tripping hazard. Make sense?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Truthinthedetails said:
Lakebum - what I mean is that the standard "table post hole" on the bennington is recessed into the deck approx 2"-3" in order for enough of the table column to lock into place. In order to place an aftermarket table somewhere else on the boat, I would have to bolt their "table post holder" to the top of the deck. Which results in something that is not flush to the deck. My suggestion to Bennington is drill three "table post holes"....one in the front cabin, one in the mid-cabin and one between the rear loungers. In addition add some sort of plactic cap that fits into the hole so that the two holes not being currently use to support the table are flush to the deck, and doesn't represent a toe stubbing or tripping hazard. Make sense?
Click to expand...
The plastic cap solution may have other options. The same scheme, other parts. Other parts may be a threaded base too a slip fit collar. The threaded base will be fitted for installation of a screw in SS plug. The base is fitted into the hole saw bore w/relief for flush fitting the base mounting fastener flange.

Alternatively, The base may be threaded to receive a threaded pedastal. Base threads will match those of the plug threads.

The plywood, hole saw bore will be epoxy coated to seal against corruption.

Whereas, personal preferance location may vary from user to user, the option of customer installation may be preferred.
 
Truth, the table port on Benny's are usually Springfield. They are not made to sit on top of the floor, you have to drill a hole and it is recessed the 2 to 3 inches like yours. They only stick up above the deck about 1/4". A surface mount type would definitely be a toe stubber. Steve
 
How about a latch to hold open the gate ,It would come in handy at times.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mc Donalds retaurants cook hamburgers based on demographic marketing. It my understanding Mc Donalds corporate, employs marketing physists. And, they just keep coming. One of their common architecture designs include a childrens play ground.

Continuing that science, a "Gazebo"tm, the scheme would be a small vessel attached to the pontoon boat via a drawbar. (drawbar/stiff leg to maintain seperation between the mother/daughter vessel) The drawbar may be over-layed with a railed gang plank. The base "Gazebo"tm is a decked hull serving as a mobile floating dock. Options are available to include most or more amenities presently on the mother vessel. The "Gazebo"tm, options provide a privacy romping/changing/sleeping room for young and old kids. Further options include a paddle boat, water slide, cooker area and etc.

Trailering, no problem, the trailer is designed to accept both the mother and daughter vessel. Shorten the draw bar hitch and load up. Control a problem, hit the daughter vessel thruster and utilize the long lever arm between the mother vessel and rear thruster on the daughter vessel.

You say "Hogwash"....The trailer is designed to be expandable. Don't have a "Gazebo"tm, shorten the trailer with the pull of pins. Hidden, saftey cables are provided. Don't like that, take two trailers, The "Gazebo"tm will load as easy or easier than the mother vessel.

The concept may be silly. However, part of the attraction for cruisers before yachts, can be designed into and be served by such a concept. The price should remain attractive, well below cruisers.

Comments ????
 
Ccando......that type of craft already exists. It's called a houseboat! I had a 37" Gibson for four years. Sold it to get my Bennie.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top