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Anchoring

Fasttr

Fasttr

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Rockwall, TX
I just put a new 2011 22 SSI in the water last weekend and I'm wondering what people do for anchor attachment and/or anchor system mounting? I'd like some suggestions for something very simple (where to mount a rope cleat on the deck/frame) to winches/pulleys, etc. The SSI doesn't have any open area outside of the railing in the rear and very little in the front. I did see a video online of a system where they drilled down through the deck and the anchor was supported on an underneath structure. I don't like the idea of drilling a hole through my brand new boat but it did look pretty slick. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
 
It never struck me as wise to drop anchor off the same end of the boat the prop is on, so I go to the front.

Your logs have a solid portion all the way at the front where there is a hole drilled through. The gets used as a tie down by most folks, although I think it was a lifting point at the factory during assembly.

Anyway, go take a look at the front of your logs and you'll see what I mean.

Then go down to your local hardware store and buy yourself 2 or 3 Stainless Steel quick-links. They look a lot like those carribiners that mountain climber mountain climbers use. You want the kind that opens and closes with a screw mechanism, and I'll leave you to judge size for yourself.

You put these on the front of your logs, screw the closure down and you now have a handy place to run your anchor line through. Just remember to put a wee bit of anti-seize on the threads so you can open it up again if you want to.

I have seen people use this sort of setup to drop two anchors, once off each outboard log, and another guy who anchors off his center log and uses an additional couple of "clip" style 'biners to hang his rode off the two outboard logs.

I should add....

Most places where people use pontoons are not deep enough for a chain rode to really matter. That's a length of chain; one end of which attaches to your anchor clevis and the other to your anchor line.

Personally, I use one anyway on the theory that it can't hurt.

Regardless, you're the one familiar with your lake and what you want to do in terms of anchor/line/etc.

I just wanted to mention that if you plan on pulling your rode THROUGH the 'biner, make sure that what you get is size appropriate.

Me...

I just pull up the anchor until the end of the rode is at the 'biner, then brag the chain and lift the anchor onto the fore-deck. AFTER splashing off the mud of course... ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
quote name='Fasttr' timestamp='1306172889' post='1417']

I just put a new 2011 22 SSI in the water last weekend and I'm wondering what people do for anchor attachment and/or anchor system mounting? I'd like some suggestions for something very simple (where to mount a rope cleat on the deck/frame) to winches/pulleys, etc. The SSI doesn't have any open area outside of the railing in the rear and very little in the front. I did see a video online of a system where they drilled down through the deck and the anchor was supported on an underneath structure. I don't like the idea of drilling a hole through my brand new boat but it did look pretty slick. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

I have a 2011 20 SLi. I had the dealer install a MinnKota Deck Hand 40 on the front deck. They also installed a power control button just under the ingnition key. I was very impressed with the service dept because they had my playpen cover fitted with a cut out area. My cover fit's just great and looks good too.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looneymoose said:
I have a 2011 20 SLi. I had the dealer install a MinnKota Deck Hand 40 on the front deck. They also installed a power control button just under the ingnition key. I was very impressed with the service dept because they had my playpen cover fitted with a cut out area. My cover fit's just great and looks good too.
Click to expand...
The problem with my SSI (a model that is not on the Bennington web site) is that the front deck is about 4" across and there is no rear deck so a winch would have to be installed inside the railings and either go down through the deck or through a railing. Because there is no front deck it makes getting to the front pontoon hook(s) rather difficult. I've worked up a partial solution. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

This system is pretty slick but I'm just not ready to drill down through the deck until I see how much I end up using the anchor.

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Okay here's what I did for my anchor on the SSi. First I added a center bow anchor. It has a couple of 1" square x 12" aluminum brackets behind the frame but I don't consider it strong enough to anchor directly to it (although it might be). That is just for tidying things up when the anchor is up. There are ropes attached to both pontoon attachment points and the rope creates a "V" for the anchor to be centered on the boat. There is a locking clevis hook in the center and my anchor line has loops at 50', 75' and 100'. I just hook the center of the line to whatever anchor line length I think I need and attach the far end (without strain) to the bow eye so I can easily get to the rope from the front gate. I've used this three times now and while I'm not completely happy with the solution, it's better than trying to climb out the front in 4" of deck space to try and hook one of the pontoons. I may try and further reinforce the center bow eyelet I added by tying it in back to the frame. Then I would feel comfortable attaching an anchor directly to that location. Team Bennington: Take note that the SSi needs a center anchoring location...

Moving Pic

Anchored Pic

Anyway, works well enough right now
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ericscher said:
It never struck me as wise to drop anchor off the same end of the boat the prop is on, so I go to the front.

Your logs have a solid portion all the way at the front where there is a hole drilled through. The gets used as a tie down by most folks, although I think it was a lifting point at the factory during assembly.

Anyway, go take a look at the front of your logs and you'll see what I mean.

Then go down to your local hardware store and buy yourself 2 or 3 Stainless Steel quick-links. They look a lot like those carribiners that mountain climber mountain climbers use. You want the kind that opens and closes with a screw mechanism, and I'll leave you to judge size for yourself.

You put these on the front of your logs, screw the closure down and you now have a handy place to run your anchor line through. Just remember to put a wee bit of anti-seize on the threads so you can open it up again if you want to.

I have seen people use this sort of setup to drop two anchors, once off each outboard log, and another guy who anchors off his center log and uses an additional couple of "clip" style 'biners to hang his rode off the two outboard logs.

I should add....

Most places where people use pontoons are not deep enough for a chain rode to really matter. That's a length of chain; one end of which attaches to your anchor clevis and the other to your anchor line.

Personally, I use one anyway on the theory that it can't hurt.

Regardless, you're the one familiar with your lake and what you want to do in terms of anchor/line/etc.

I just wanted to mention that if you plan on pulling your rode THROUGH the 'biner, make sure that what you get is size appropriate.

Me...

I just pull up the anchor until the end of the rode is at the 'biner, then brag the chain and lift the anchor onto the fore-deck. AFTER splashing off the mud of course... ;)
Click to expand...
 
Fasttr said:
Okay here's what I did for my anchor on the SSi. First I added a center bow anchor. It has a couple of 1" square x 12" aluminum brackets behind the frame but I don't consider it strong enough to anchor directly to it (although it might be). That is just for tidying things up when the anchor is up. There are ropes attached to both pontoon attachment points and the rope creates a "V" for the anchor to be centered on the boat. There is a locking clevis hook in the center and my anchor line has loops at 50', 75' and 100'. I just hook the center of the line to whatever anchor line length I think I need and attach the far end (without strain) to the bow eye so I can easily get to the rope from the front gate. I've used this three times now and while I'm not completely happy with the solution, it's better than trying to climb out the front in 4" of deck space to try and hook one of the pontoons. I may try and further reinforce the center bow eyelet I added by tying it in back to the frame. Then I would feel comfortable attaching an anchor directly to that location. Team Bennington: Take note that the SSi needs a center anchoring location...

Moving Pic

Anchored Pic

Anyway, works well enough right now
Click to expand...
No pics. Says you need a mobile me account.
 
Read the threads about the box anchors. We bought two because of the recommendations on this forum. I know how great they are because we have never drag an anchor while using them. Last weekend we anchored with a danford anchor because the box anchors were in another truck. We had a repair on the boat and the only thing I took out were the anchors. The danford broke loose 3 times in an afternoon. With a box anchor you only need one attachment point. We throw one of the front (tied to the toon ) and one off the back on a cleat. Holds you in place with no swinging.
 
We carry 2 anchors.............

I have my 15 lb. "Digger" anchor stored under the front port side corner seat. Perfect fit. I attach it to a stainless steel cleat I installed specifically for this purpose on the bow port side..............This is the best anchor I ever had and it doesn't require a chain rode............

The 2nd anchor is a "fluke" style anchor I store in the changing room. I attach it to the aft starboard cleat. The toon doesn't move..............
 
If you usually are on a sand bar or other relatively shallow spot, check out the beach spike at Barts for around $64. We love it, with a 20ft line or so, it holds awesomely, and when you are ready to go, just pull up on the line, and it comes up clean. Light, and easy to store.
 
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