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Battery Hold Down

I'm not sure about new new but my 2022 L series had a battery tray with a top 'splash' guard so when I upgraded to a 2 battery setup with distribution panel I asked the Bennington parts department for the identical tray and it was an attwood battery tray. However I can't find the exact one online that includes the top so water can't drip from wet suits sitting above.
 
agil1215 said:
I'm not sure about new new but my 2022 L series had a battery tray with a top 'splash' guard so when I upgraded to a 2 battery setup with distribution panel I asked the Bennington parts department for the identical tray and it was an attwood battery tray. However I can't find the exact one online that includes the top so water can't drip from wet suits sitting above.
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Do you have a picture of what it looks like?
 
babock said:
Do you have a picture of what it looks like?
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Best pictures I could get since it was raining on and off and didn’t want to pull the whole back cover off the boat.
 

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Thanks

Out of curiosity, where did you buy that panel on the left with the disconnect and the fuse panel on it?
 
I had to order one from Bennington parts department. It’s the same one if you order the power distribution panel option from factory. There is a specific panel for dual battery setups and one for single battery.

The first panel they sent me was the single battery panel which has only a two pole switch l, fuse panel and no VSR (voltage sensitive relay). Since I was upgrading to dual batteries I wanted the smart relay to open when boat is keyed off and prevent drain from the cranking battery, then to close when keyed on to charged both sets. I added all lighting packages and amp plus sub so my electrical load increased and I didn’t feel like being stranded in the water.
 

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Batteries are part of the rigging process with the purchase dealership. Pretty sure the trays and any “extras” are simply based on whatever the dealership uses and are part of that rigging cost. Personally, I hate the tie downs that came with mine and simply removed them. Just makes access a bit of a PITA. FWIW, our top lid stays on just fine without them.
 
Well,
Here's how our battery system looks in our '14 Benny 25RCL. It came with 2 batts. I don't use the tops of them because they don't fit all that well.
Scott
 

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Battery hold downs are supplied from Bennington with the boat.
Current ones were used for a long time, but it was easy to over-tighten and break the plastic 'bolts'.
The new ones are less of an enclosure and more simply a top cover.
 
agil1215 said:
I had to order one from Bennington parts department. It’s the same one if you order the power distribution panel option from factory. There is a specific panel for dual battery setups and one for single battery.

The first panel they sent me was the single battery panel which has only a two pole switch l, fuse panel and no VSR (voltage sensitive relay). Since I was upgrading to dual batteries I wanted the smart relay to open when boat is keyed off and prevent drain from the cranking battery, then to close when keyed on to charged both sets. I added all lighting packages and amp plus sub so my electrical load increased and I didn’t feel like being stranded in the water.
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Well...your post inspired me. I didn't need a fuse panel but I wanted the on/off switch, the acr and the circuit breaker for the house loads on one panel.

I 3D printed one.

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When I installed my mini ACR, I kept the single switch panel and used that for the relay module. I used a hole saw to mount the switch through to the outside of the compartment. It's so much nicer and convenient to not have to open a compartment to power up the boat. It's even better being able to do it from the ground with the boat on the trailer if I need to trim the motor for travel or storage.
 
I love this idea. Would you happen to have a picture of the battery switch mounted on the outside or inside location? Also, I imagine you had to lengthen your electrical cables? If so, did you use some sort of splice, or run all new cables? Appreciate any advice you may have. I looked at moving the switch to the outside, but it looked challenging.
 
I've got a swingback setup. The switch panel is only about 6-10" away from where the aluminum panel wraps around to the back of the seat, so there was no need for longer cables. Besides creating some new cables for the m-ACR, the most challenging part was getting up the courage to cut a hole in the aluminum panel of a new boat. I'll get some pics for you when I get a chance.
 
Perfect and thanks. I also have a swingback.
 
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