Battery Selector Switch Repair

[sunedog]

For the last few weeks, I have been having problems with battery number 2 on my 2017 RSB. It would apparently charge, but didn't seem to hold a charge. Yesterday when I put the battery selector switch on battery 2 and turned the key, nothing happened. The motor didn't crank and the gauges didn't budge. I thought that battery must be completely discharged and surely needed replaced. I moved the switch to battery 1 and the boat started and ran fine and we used it for several hours.

So today I opened the swingback to figure out which battery was number 2 and measure the voltage on both batteries. I was surprised to see one battery showed 12.88 volts and the other 12.68 volts. So the problem wasn't the battery.

I opened the compartment that housed the battery selector switch and all the wires were tight and there was no visible corrosion. But I could't see where the positive wires from battery 1 and 2 connected to the battery selector switch because they connect to the bottom of the switch. So I unscrewed the panel it is mounted in and when I lifted it up, the battery selector switch came apart in pieces! The top of the switch was screwed to the panel but the bottom half of the switch was completely separated and several pieces fell out of it! The receptacles for all 4 of the screws that come up from the bottom were broken. I speculate whoever installed the switch used an impact driver and over torqued them. Then they failed over time.

I thought I needed to replace the switch, but decided to try to see if I could repair it first. I took everything apart and carried it into my shop. Once I had it laid out, it was pretty obvious how it was supposed to go back together. I lined everything up and super glued the base to the top and clamped it for a while. Then I re-installed everything, re-connected the batteries and tested it all. Everything works as it should.

The glue may not be a permanent fix. But the switch is readily available for about $45. I'll replace it if I have to.

 

[Jack M]

Just out of curiosity, what year ?

 

[sunedog]

Just out of curiosity, what year ?

2017 model year. Delivered Fall of 2016.

 

[Jack M]

Warranty?

 

[sunedog]

Possibly. I am the second owner and my boat delivered 9/27/2016 with a 5 year warranty at the time. (The 10 year warranty started Jan 1, 2017, I think.) My warranty should have been extended to 7 years because I have been a member of this forum since 2012. The 7 years should end 9/26/2023.

I will call my local dealer when they open Tuesday to go over this again with them. Last November, they told me my warranty was expired.

 

[BigKahuna]

Great job on the diagnosis and temporary repair!

 

[sunedog]

Possibly. I am the second owner and my boat delivered 9/27/2016 with a 5 year warranty at the time. (The 10 year warranty started Jan 1, 2017, I think.) My warranty should have been extended to 7 years because I have been a member of this forum since 2012. The 7 years should end 9/26/2023.

I will call my local dealer when they open Tuesday to go over this again with them. Last November, they told me my warranty was expired.

I didn't call my dealer. Instead I re-read the actual warranty sheet provided by the original owner when I purchased the boat. My stem to stern warranty covering carpet, fabric, Bimini top, components and everything else is expired. The structural and wood component portion of the warranty is good for 10 years from delivery date.

The original owner of a boat delivered 9/27/2016 would have a 5 year warranty, extended to 7 years with forum membership. But the second owner (me) only gets the 5 years, even with forum membership.

"Original retail purchasers of 2013 and newer product who also elect to join Club Bennington at time of retail registration (or are existing Club Bennington members) are entitled to Seven (7) years of stem to stern coverage. In the event a warranty transfer occurs the remaining balance of the standard Five (5) year warranty will apply..."

 

[MrDean86]

Thanks for posting this. I am currently having issues with my switch and it seems to have the same symptoms that yours had. My switch appears to be identical to yours. Did you end up getting a new switch? My boat is still under warranty but I am 45+ minutes away from the dealer by boat (no trailer). I am not sure if I change it myself if it will void any warranty. I talked to the service rep on the phone and he was leaning toward the battery being bad but like you I have 12.8 volts on both batteries.

 

[Jack M]

If it is the switch ,I would let the dealer handle it, because of warranty concerns as well.

 

[sunedog]

Thanks for posting this. I am currently having issues with my switch and it seems to have the same symptoms that yours had. My switch appears to be identical to yours. Did you end up getting a new switch? My boat is still under warranty but I am 45+ minutes away from the dealer by boat (no trailer). I am not sure if I change it myself if it will void any warranty. I talked to the service rep on the phone and he was leaning toward the battery being bad but like you I have 12.8 volts on both batteries.

Letting dealer handle it is the safest way as Jack said because you're dealing with live electrical parts. I can't say if changing it yourself will void your warranty. Be advised forum member Vikingstaff had a devastating electrical fire even though he did no repairs to anything back there and I believe the cause was inconclusive and he ended up having to pay for the significant repairs.

But I'm a lifelong do-it-yourselfer and just approached it methodically and carefully. It is an easy fix.
- Unscrew the panel holding the battery selector and smart hub from the floor so you can tilt it to see the condition of the cables coming from the batteries into the battery selector. I was looking for corrosion, abrasion or a broken cable. When I did this, the battery selector came apart in pieces. If yours does too, then...
- Disconnect the positive cables from each battery.
- Unbolt those two positive cables from the bottom of the battery selector switch. Also unbolt the common cable on the bottom of the switch.
- I took my switch to my shop at this point and was able to see how it all went back together. I ended up using super glue to re-seal the battery selector switch case. Clamped it for an hour or so to be safe. Then I reinforced the bond with 2 part epoxy. Put it back together and it is still working. I have not replaced it but may for peace of mind when I pull the boat at the end of the season. The switches are about $45 on Amazon.
- Even if your switch is intact, once it is disconnected, you can easily check for continuity between the different terminals posts in each of the selector switch positions.