Hoist guides

[FightinIrish]

I have a ShoreMaster hoist for my 21 SSRCX and I just realized this year that there is a small dent on the front right outer underside of the nosecone of the toon. It is most definitely from the toon hitting the side bumper of the hoist as I come in, which sits about 2 inches above the water when the hoist is lowered low enough for the boat to float. Any lower and they don't function to provide the lateral bumper action that they are supposed to serve. Any higher and the boat wouldn't make it into the hoist.

Does anyone have a similar issue? Has anyone mounted trailer guides on their hoist? If so, do you have a link? I'm trying to find a solution so that the deck/rub-rail hits something before the toons do.

We are in a big lake in NY with decent wind/waves and have a very narrow channel to get into the hoist, making getting the boat into the hoist quite a process each time - miss it and you're in big trouble.

I've attached a couple pictures of the side rails to try to explain the situation.

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Thanks all!

 

[Joeb14]

If the rails are just 2” above water, seems like you may need to raise the rail higher…which would mean replacing the vertical struts that connect the rail to the lift frame with longer struts.

I have a Hewitt lift, and added my own-built side rails, similar to what you have. At the entrance end, I added boards that are vertical, so the toon would be guided by this board, not necessarily the hor board that is 2” above water.

I really don’t think you want the rub rail to hit these guides when you approach the lift. It would just mark up the rub rail, which will be more noticeable than marking up the sides of the toons.

 

[FightinIrish]

Thanks Joeb14 - I see you are on Skaneateles, we are next door on Owasco!

I think you're right that they should be higher out of the water. My thought though was that I would want the rub rails to hit first rather than dent my toons, lesser of two evils I suppose. The first thing to hit anything as I come into the hoist is the outer edge of my nosecone against basically the blunt end of that 2x6 carpeted side bunk.

Something maybe like this? Is this basically what you have as your "vertical boards" at the entrance end? Do you have a picture?

Thanks again

 

[Vikingstaff]

FYI on the rub rail: it can “pull” out of its track with repeated rubbing, especially with a lot of pressure on it. We had a covered lift our first two years with the boat before our switch to the Sea Legs. Once we were caught trying to get into it in a weather flare up (we’re on a big lake too which can have conditions similar to what you described Irish).

The positive was the rub rail protected the side of our boat. The negative was it rubbed along our canopy support arm, and with the force of wind and waves and boat weight and moving forward into the lift, a significant stretch of our port side rub rail was pulled out of its track. The whole thing had to be “pulled” out, and then slide back into its track (if this makes sense).

So it certainly saved the side of our boat. However, based on that experience, it is not something I’d want to happen regularly as it was a bit of a PITA to get back in place again.

 

[Joeb14]

Here are pictures. Not too pretty, but it works. It’s all Joe-built, couldn’t find what I wanted from the mfgr. I know that one lift maker has side rails that flare out to the outside at the front, so that any impact is not head on.
You are welcome to look at in person if you want.

 

[JAMS]

I have a hydro hoist and to avoid that when I go my pontoon I just flipped the swing arms upside down and traded sides. Now it's just the 3 rail beds that it sits on nothing on either side. Guide rails are not needed.

 

[Michiman]

I’ve got a Floe lift that has three guideposts on each side instead of a rub rail. I can certainly understand your concern! Would it be possible to eliminate the rub rails?