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Subwoofer Free Air vs Enclosed

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psalm333

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Upgrading the stereo system this spring and looking for a little guidance on the subwoofer. Going with the Wet Sounds speakers and amplifier. For the sub, I am split between the HT AS-10 and mounting inside the helm storage or cutting a hole in the helm wall and installing the XS10-FA.

Those that have the enclosed subs inside the helm, do you notice any annoying rattle from the door or siding?

Which will provide a cleaner tighter bass?

Any input is appreciated.
 
If you turn it up loud enough you won't hear the rattle. ;) I had the as-10 and I had no issues, plus it hit hard enough for my needs. I have zero experience with the Free air..
 
No problem with the AS-10 on my R 
 
My buddy has a free air sub on his Excursion pontoon.  It's sounds fine but doesn't have a huge "hit" like a sub in an enclosure would have.  It fills the bottom end up nicely if that's what you're looking for.
 
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Thanks everyone for the input. Leaning toward the enclosed unit. Since the enclosed has its own amplifier, guess I need to run 2 power cables to the battery. Going to install the amp and sub in the helm storage of a 20SLM. The batteries are located in the changing room enclosure on the port side. What gauge wire would be the best to run the distance?
 
I would suggest a #2 awg at min. If you want to lean on the side of being safe #0.
 
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MH663 said:
I would suggest a #2 awg at min. If you want to lean on the side of being safe #0.
Click to expand...

That's what I would do also.  It's not cheap and it's big in diameter.  Run the power and ground to distribution boxes so that any future upgrades from there make it simple.
 
Great suggestion on the distribution box. Is the distribution box installed under the helm or in the battery location? I believe the amps want a fuse within 18 inches of the battery, does the distribution box replace this requirement?
 
My factory installed distribution panel is in the battery compartment under the port side rear lounger .
 
I've installed a bunch of boat and car stereos and the way I've always done it is to install a fuse (or circuit breaker my preference) close to the battery on the positive cable.  This fuse/CB should be the size of your total stereo amperage.  Run the cables to distribution boxes near the amps.  Between the boxes and the amp(s), I put another fuse/CB on the power cable the size of that particular amp amperage.  I like using circuit breakers because you can instantly kill the power to everything or each amp and not have to fool with fuses.  Once you run the heavy GA power/ground cables to your helm, you can plug in pretty much whatever you want from that power source.  The larger cables might be a bit overkill for what you're doing now but if you ever want to add or replace stuff with higher amp ratings you'll be glad you ran the heavy stuff the first time around.  Just my .02.
 
I have both, the AS-10 will give you the better bang for the buck. You have to throw a decent amount of power at free air subs to get them really punching. luckily I have a 1000W Wet Sounds powering 2 of them.

As for the power/ground gauge, going with 1/0, 2, is actually overkill. Before anyone gets huffy, It's not a BAD thing to overkill on power and ground ever. If you actually look at what he is running, 4 is more than suitable, you could probably do 8g and be fine. I wouldn't recommend 8g, I would say 4g for sure if that's all you ever plan on running, it still gives you ample current to power those items. I will also state that GOOD QUALITY CABLE MAKES A DIFFERENCE! I went with the Wet Wire and it is incredible, plus if you use it, it extends your warranty on the amps. It is very nice stuff.
 
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