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Trailering, To trailer or not

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CcanDo

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Team Bennington lists some of the Pros and Cons of owning a trailer. Not to Hi-Jack that thread, I would like to add a couple of points.

1) Loading can be intimidating and discouraging. Even a breeze and light water current will cause the hull to drift to the side. Armed with that, a well designed trailer and assistantance from your crew will reduce frustration. (Any scratch or ding is unacceptable ) Whereas the adage of "practice makes perfect"....Find a soft bouy and dock to that bouy from up-wind, down-wind, etc. until the boat is known and driveable. Speed is the first part of the learning curve. The hull has so much surface area that inertia carries the hull forward or backward at any speed. Pre-planning the approach only requires fore thought.

2) The ability to load and go to the car wash is being independant. Nothing is more unsightly, to me, than a set of aluminum or painted tubes caked with barnacles and bird DOO-Doo.

3) During winter months the "New Bennington" will be a lot happier living in an enclosed storage area. There is something gratifying about pulling a well kept boat out of storage. And, the elements do cause deteriation.

4) The flexibility of traveling may not be a concern. However, Regattas, Poker Runs and etc. are popular with many.

5) The 2 wheel drive vehicle will pull most pontoon boats up most ramps. However, some and some are a problem. A 4 wheel drive eliminates those issues.
 
I towed last year back and forth(my first year with a boat). Rented frog hooks at the marina this year. Went out yesterday for just a few hours! Probably wouldn't have if I had to tow. I think I'll get more use of my boat this spring/summer than if I had towed. We loved just pulling up last night, snapping on the cover, and driving home!

I'm on Lake Keowee in South Carolina.
 
Most people will use their pontoon boat more if able to tie up to a secure dock or slip. Subject to the many variables, trailering can be even less fun.

It would be interesting to hear of your experiences. Also, others may find time to chine in with comments.
 
We trailer our tritoon everywhere we go. Having a properly adjusted trailer, bunks, stops, and guides (if needed) can make loading much easier. I back the trailer down the ramp and into the water (at the proper depth in relation to the bunks) while she waits patiently, then she drives it onto the trailer. A little nudge on the throttle to bump the bow stop, I hook up the strap and we're off. It takes less than a minute from the time I back into the water. The wife is a GOOD driver and rarely is off center on the bunks, even in the wind. I'm thankful for that. She was a bit intimidated, if not downright scared, the first time she had to load the pontoon onto the trailer. After she did it a few times, it has become like clockwork now. Fact is, and I'm embarrassed to say, I've never driven our boat onto the trailer since we've owned it. But....I'm the CAPTAIN out on the water!!!!!...................when she lets me.
 
I am hoping that my trailer experience goes as well as your Ben. My wife and I will be new to it this year. Our tritoon trailer is setup much like yours. We can't wait to get it next month.
 
I still don't have the knack for driving it on yet. And the wife hasn't really done much driving at all.It would be nice, just haven't gotten used to lining it up right yet. How deep do you guys put the trailer? Are the bunks fully covered?
 
BulldogsCadillac said:
I still don't have the knack for driving it on yet. And the wife hasn't really done much driving at all.It would be nice, just haven't gotten used to lining it up right yet. How deep do you guys put the trailer? Are the bunks fully covered?
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Keeping the last foot or two of the bunks exposed seems to work best. Once you do it a few times you'll find out what works best at your particular ramp.
 
The little Go-Pro camera or something similar, could be mounted on the deck and connected to a display on the operators console. The camera would be motor driven adjustable or aimed to see the pontoon tube relative to trailer bunk.
 
CcanDo said:
The little Go-Pro camera or something similar, could be mounted on the deck and connected to a display on the operators console. The camera would be motor driven adjustable or aimed to see the pontoon tube relative to trailer bunk.
Click to expand...
That's a heck of a good idea! It'd be like my back up camera in the caddy or my work truck. Now that I think of it, I believe gopro actually make a little monitor for quick viewing of your video, wonder if it could be permanently hooked up. Or better yet, have an input on your fishfinder and be able to flip to that input. It's either that or just practice until I get better at it.......I like the camera idea!!!
 
Actually, now that you mention that, I remember last year going out with my parents and taking their waterproof video camera, I also just layed on the deck and hung my head over and looked under, and took some cool video just skimming the water and underneath the deck. It was just a twin tube, quite surprising how the water thrashed around under there. I tried to talk the wife into the gopro so we could try it again and take some better video, that motion was denied as well. Haha

Derrick
 
I just want to add one thought, and before I do I should disclose that I don't own a trailer... The marina takes care of my boat year round. Which works for me, but maybe not for you.

Here's the thought: A boat trailer is NOT a good place to fall into the trap of false economy. If you're going to buy a trailer, buy a good one. I'll come back to what I think constitutes a "good" trailer.

There are basically three classes of trailer to consider. Class I, Class II & Class III. Yes, there are higher classes of trailer, but anyone who owns a Class IV or higher trailer (and the vehicle to pull it), already knows more than I plan on saying.

Hitches and the vehicles they attach to break down like this:

Class I: 2,000lbs or less.

Class II: 3,500lbs or less.

Class III: 5,000lbs or less.

That's an over-simplification for reasons that I won't get into because it's getting into the weeds. Here's what's important...

Forget Class I. Strictly as a practical matter, Pontoon boats don't fall into this class. More importantly, even if you have a very small and minimalist pontoon boat that weighs less than a ton, your trailer is only part of the story. Your HITCH and your car/truck has to pull the boat AND the trailer, Oh, and overcome the wind load that towing an object shaped like a shoebox will create.

Class II will cover most of the more common outboard powered pontoon boats. BUT! You start getting into 25 foot and over, more luxury (which means more weight) and bigger outboards...? You're going to leave Class III behind.

And for I/O pontoons...?

If you use our website to spec out an "S" class 23' I/O, which is arguably one of the lightest I/O selections you're going to find that the hull weight is just over 2,800 pounds. A 350 Mercruiser is just under 950 pounds. Even before adding the drive you're already at 3,750lbs.

So what I'm getting at here is that if you're going to buy a boat trailer at ALL, you would be well advised to go directly to a Class III trailer. Calling a trailer a "Class II isn't strictly accurate for reasons that don't actually matter, but it's helpful to think of it this way. For the purpose of this post just understand that when I say "Class III" trailer I am referring to a trailer whose weight with the intended cargo on board is one which is intended to be pulled by a Class III rated vehicle and hitch.

A quick word about those...

You can have a vehicle rated for say, 4,500lbs (Like my Honda Pilot) and bolt on a hitch rated for 6,000lbs. That doesn't mean you can pull 6,000lbs, it just means you have a beefier hitch that in all likelihood attaches to the vehicles frames at more points than a lighter hitch. Upgrading from a 3,500 to a 5,000 pound hitch, or even a 6,000 pounder is usually less than $200, often less than $100. Point being, buy a darn good hitch from a reputable vendor and don't be afraid to buy a higher capacity than you actually need. Higher capacity hitches, especially when you get into the ones that attach to the more forward parts of your vehicles frame and not just the rear cross-member, tend to be easier on both you and your vehicle.

Now about trailers...

The following is my OPINION, which is technically worth exactly what you're paying for it, but here goes anyway:

  1. Aluminum trailers are nice, not just because they don't rust, but also because they take up less of your gross trailer weight which is the total weight of your trailer and cargo.
  2. Pay attention to the max speed rating. Do you REALLY want to take a trailer rated for 45mp on the freeway?
  3. Get dual axles and brakes and not just the emergency kind either.
  4. Make sure you have a good quality coupler that works freely and smoothly from the very beginning. Don't assume that it'll "break in".
  5. I don't think you can get a dual axle trailer that doesn't come with emergency brakes, but honestly... I should probably mention it anyway.
  6. If your trailer doesn't already come equipped with both a jack and a spare tire, add them.

One last thing...

You can buy toolboxes in both plastic, painted steel and diamond plate that are intended to bolt onto your trailer tongue forward of the boat and are even shaped to conform to the "V" shape of your trailers forward frame. Those things are seriously convenient for storing all sorts of stuff that you'll be glad to have around. I just ran a quick Amazon search and found a plastic one for $120, a black painted aluminum diamond plate version for $175 and a fancy 48" long Delta Pro bight diamond plate Aluminum one for $400. Point is, there are a lot of options for these that you can get for $100-400 with most falling into the $200-300 range. They're worth it.

If I left anything out that seems glaring, just yell at me and I'll try to fix it.

One last thing...

I generally try to stay away from suggesting particular brands for stuff I talk about. That's partially because I want to avoid ethical issues and partially because I think people should do their own due diligence when buying stuff. Trust your gut... if something seems like cheap crap, it probably is. If something seems well made, it probably is. Don't be afraid to comparison shop and ask hard questions. YOU'RE the one paying for it, you should feel good about it.
 
ericscher said:
I just want to add one thought, and before I do I should disclose that I don't own a trailer... The marina takes care of my boat year round. Which works for me, but maybe not for you.

Here's the thought: A boat trailer is NOT a good place to fall into the trap of false economy. If you're going to buy a trailer, buy a good one. I'll come back to what I think constitutes a "good" trailer.

There are basically three classes of trailer to consider. Class I, Class II & Class III. Yes, there are higher classes of trailer, but anyone who owns a Class IV or higher trailer (and the vehicle to pull it), already knows more than I plan on saying.

Hitches and the vehicles they attach to break down like this:

Class I: 2,000lbs or less.

Class II: 3,500lbs or less.

Class III: 5,000lbs or less.

That's an over-simplification for reasons that I won't get into because it's getting into the weeds. Here's what's important...

Forget Class I. Strictly as a practical matter, Pontoon boats don't fall into this class. More importantly, even if you have a very small and minimalist pontoon boat that weighs less than a ton, your trailer is only part of the story. Your HITCH and your car/truck has to pull the boat AND the trailer, Oh, and overcome the wind load that towing an object shaped like a shoebox will create.

Class II will cover most of the more common outboard powered pontoon boats. BUT! You start getting into 25 foot and over, more luxury (which means more weight) and bigger outboards...? You're going to leave Class III behind.

And for I/O pontoons...?

If you use our website to spec out an "S" class 23' I/O, which is arguably one of the lightest I/O selections you're going to find that the hull weight is just over 2,800 pounds. A 350 Mercruiser is just under 950 pounds. Even before adding the drive you're already at 3,750lbs.

So what I'm getting at here is that if you're going to buy a boat trailer at ALL, you would be well advised to go directly to a Class III trailer. Calling a trailer a "Class II isn't strictly accurate for reasons that don't actually matter, but it's helpful to think of it this way. For the purpose of this post just understand that when I say "Class III" trailer I am referring to a trailer whose weight with the intended cargo on board is one which is intended to be pulled by a Class III rated vehicle and hitch.

A quick word about those...

You can have a vehicle rated for say, 4,500lbs (Like my Honda Pilot) and bolt on a hitch rated for 6,000lbs. That doesn't mean you can pull 6,000lbs, it just means you have a beefier hitch that in all likelihood attaches to the vehicles frames at more points than a lighter hitch. Upgrading from a 3,500 to a 5,000 pound hitch, or even a 6,000 pounder is usually less than $200, often less than $100. Point being, buy a darn good hitch from a reputable vendor and don't be afraid to buy a higher capacity than you actually need. Higher capacity hitches, especially when you get into the ones that attach to the more forward parts of your vehicles frame and not just the rear cross-member, tend to be easier on both you and your vehicle.

Now about trailers...

The following is my OPINION, which is technically worth exactly what you're paying for it, but here goes anyway:

  1. Aluminum trailers are nice, not just because they don't rust, but also because they take up less of your gross trailer weight which is the total weight of your trailer and cargo.
  2. Pay attention to the max speed rating. Do you REALLY want to take a trailer rated for 45mp on the freeway?
  3. Get dual axles and brakes and not just the emergency kind either.
  4. Make sure you have a good quality coupler that works freely and smoothly from the very beginning. Don't assume that it'll "break in".
  5. I don't think you can get a dual axle trailer that doesn't come with emergency brakes, but honestly... I should probably mention it anyway.
  6. If your trailer doesn't already come equipped with both a jack and a spare tire, add them.

One last thing...

You can buy toolboxes in both plastic, painted steel and diamond plate that are intended to bolt onto your trailer tongue forward of the boat and are even shaped to conform to the "V" shape of your trailers forward frame. Those things are seriously convenient for storing all sorts of stuff that you'll be glad to have around. I just ran a quick Amazon search and found a plastic one for $120, a black painted aluminum diamond plate version for $175 and a fancy 48" long Delta Pro bight diamond plate Aluminum one for $400. Point is, there are a lot of options for these that you can get for $100-400 with most falling into the $200-300 range. They're worth it.

If I left anything out that seems glaring, just yell at me and I'll try to fix it.

One last thing...

I generally try to stay away from suggesting particular brands for stuff I talk about. That's partially because I want to avoid ethical issues and partially because I think people should do their own due diligence when buying stuff. Trust your gut... if something seems like cheap crap, it probably is. If something seems well made, it probably is. Don't be afraid to comparison shop and ask hard questions. YOU'RE the one paying for it, you should feel good about it.
Click to expand...
I totally agree Eric. I can't believe I hear people talking of buying the cheapest trailer with no brakes and then putting it on the highway. I probably over kill things, but I just ordered a class III trailer with disc brakes on both axles. I don't think one should compromise in this area. I use a heavy duty 36" black plastic locking toolbox bolted with 5 1/2" zinc square u-bolts below my trailer ladder. Purchased from Lowes for about $50.00 It holds emergency equipment, jack,triangles, etc.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah, my rule is simple: If the potential for somebody dying exists, especially if it might be ME, then I don't fool around.
 
ericscher said:
Yeah, my rule is simple: If the potential for somebody dying exists, especially if it might be ME, then I don't fool around.
Click to expand...
My Dad always said, "There are a lot of people out there dead, who have never died before"
 
That reminds me of something George Carlin said once...

"Think about how dumb the average guy is; then realize that half the world is even dumber than that." :lol:
 
ericscher said:
I just want to add one thought, and before I do I should disclose that I don't own a trailer... The marina takes care of my boat year round. Which works for me, but maybe not for you.

Here's the thought: A boat trailer is NOT a good place to fall into the trap of false economy. If you're going to buy a trailer, buy a good one. I'll come back to what I think constitutes a "good" trailer.

There are basically three classes of trailer to consider. Class I, Class II & Class III. Yes, there are higher classes of trailer, but anyone who owns a Class IV or higher trailer (and the vehicle to pull it), already knows more than I plan on saying.

Hitches and the vehicles they attach to break down like this:

Class I: 2,000lbs or less.

Class II: 3,500lbs or less.

Class III: 5,000lbs or less.

That's an over-simplification for reasons that I won't get into because it's getting into the weeds. Here's what's important...

Forget Class I. Strictly as a practical matter, Pontoon boats don't fall into this class. More importantly, even if you have a very small and minimalist pontoon boat that weighs less than a ton, your trailer is only part of the story. Your HITCH and your car/truck has to pull the boat AND the trailer, Oh, and overcome the wind load that towing an object shaped like a shoebox will create.

Class II will cover most of the more common outboard powered pontoon boats. BUT! You start getting into 25 foot and over, more luxury (which means more weight) and bigger outboards...? You're going to leave Class III behind.

And for I/O pontoons...?

If you use our website to spec out an "S" class 23' I/O, which is arguably one of the lightest I/O selections you're going to find that the hull weight is just over 2,800 pounds. A 350 Mercruiser is just under 950 pounds. Even before adding the drive you're already at 3,750lbs.

So what I'm getting at here is that if you're going to buy a boat trailer at ALL, you would be well advised to go directly to a Class III trailer. Calling a trailer a "Class II isn't strictly accurate for reasons that don't actually matter, but it's helpful to think of it this way. For the purpose of this post just understand that when I say "Class III" trailer I am referring to a trailer whose weight with the intended cargo on board is one which is intended to be pulled by a Class III rated vehicle and hitch.

A quick word about those...

You can have a vehicle rated for say, 4,500lbs (Like my Honda Pilot) and bolt on a hitch rated for 6,000lbs. That doesn't mean you can pull 6,000lbs, it just means you have a beefier hitch that in all likelihood attaches to the vehicles frames at more points than a lighter hitch. Upgrading from a 3,500 to a 5,000 pound hitch, or even a 6,000 pounder is usually less than $200, often less than $100. Point being, buy a darn good hitch from a reputable vendor and don't be afraid to buy a higher capacity than you actually need. Higher capacity hitches, especially when you get into the ones that attach to the more forward parts of your vehicles frame and not just the rear cross-member, tend to be easier on both you and your vehicle.

Now about trailers...

The following is my OPINION, which is technically worth exactly what you're paying for it, but here goes anyway:

  1. Aluminum trailers are nice, not just because they don't rust, but also because they take up less of your gross trailer weight which is the total weight of your trailer and cargo.
  2. Pay attention to the max speed rating. Do you REALLY want to take a trailer rated for 45mp on the freeway?
  3. Get dual axles and brakes and not just the emergency kind either.
  4. Make sure you have a good quality coupler that works freely and smoothly from the very beginning. Don't assume that it'll "break in".
  5. I don't think you can get a dual axle trailer that doesn't come with emergency brakes, but honestly... I should probably mention it anyway.
  6. If your trailer doesn't already come equipped with both a jack and a spare tire, add them.

One last thing...

You can buy toolboxes in both plastic, painted steel and diamond plate that are intended to bolt onto your trailer tongue forward of the boat and are even shaped to conform to the "V" shape of your trailers forward frame. Those things are seriously convenient for storing all sorts of stuff that you'll be glad to have around. I just ran a quick Amazon search and found a plastic one for $120, a black painted aluminum diamond plate version for $175 and a fancy 48" long Delta Pro bight diamond plate Aluminum one for $400. Point is, there are a lot of options for these that you can get for $100-400 with most falling into the $200-300 range. They're worth it.

If I left anything out that seems glaring, just yell at me and I'll try to fix it.

One last thing...

I generally try to stay away from suggesting particular brands for stuff I talk about. That's partially because I want to avoid ethical issues and partially because I think people should do their own due diligence when buying stuff. Trust your gut... if something seems like cheap crap, it probably is. If something seems well made, it probably is. Don't be afraid to comparison shop and ask hard questions. YOU'RE the one paying for it, you should feel good about it.
Click to expand...
Well stated....The size of the ball is one of the first report cards for quality. Capacity is stamped on the top of most, which will often be 2". A 2 5/8" ball and coupler costs the trailer builder more. One can expect resistance from him as you add a 2 5/8 ball and coupler to the spec. However, after getting past his tunnel vision, the cost should be minimal.

Not only does the larger ball have greater capacity , but a larger circumfrence for the coupler jaws to grab. Subject to how the boat is loaded, axle location and ultimately, trailer center of gravity, there can be potential concerns. Tongue load is relative to how most trailers pull. A tongue with little or no Wt. on the ball will probably go to a negative Wt. when the front axle sees most of the load. That example can cause the coupler to jump off from the ball or at least increase coupler jaw wear....then jump off. (THERE IS A NUT ON THE BOTTOM OF MOST COUPLERS FOR ADJUSTMENT AND SOME JAWS ARE TIGHTENED BY LOOSING THE NUT) A light tongue load can also encourage trailer whip. Whip can throw the tow vehicle off from the road.

Whereas, capacity is often stamped on the ball, a sharpie ambulance chaser could have his starting place for an arguement.

Aluminum is a great trailer builder product. However, it is also sensitive to work hardening. The design requires proper alloy, good structural engineering and good welders. Otherwise, work hardening will cause stress cracks or failure.

Unfortunetly, the builder wants profit margin and the buyer wants price. The combination can create an inferior product.
 
I'm sure it was a typo, 2 5/16" ball? Otherwise, whichever ball you go with, be sure it has the large 1" mounting stud. I don't know why they make them with the smaller stud, but they do! Overkill is never a bad thing when it comes to safety :)
 
Geoffrey & Brenda said:
I'm sure it was a typo, 2 5/16" ball? Otherwise, whichever ball you go with, be sure it has the large 1" mounting stud. I don't know why they make them with the smaller stud, but they do! Overkill is never a bad thing when it comes to safety :)
Click to expand...
My bad! Thanks ! yes it is 2 5/16". And, you win again, use a ball w/a 1" stud or bolt, lock washer and nut combination.
 
Eric, just so you will know, my factory tandem axle has NO brakes. Will rectify soon. I have already added the center bunk, feel much better now about that. Steve
 
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