Transom Saver

Good info. I did check my tire/wheel size yesterday. They are 13" rims with 175/80R13 tires. 
 
What is the load grade? It should be "D" and no less than "C:
 
I'm not sure, but fixing to go out and look. ;)

Edit:  It's an ST trailer tire  6 ply sidewall   Load range C   :(

If these aren't any better than the china tires that came on my 5er, they will get changed out soon. The junk that came on my 14k # 5er started bubbling on the sides within a year. They also started wearing pretty quickly. These will be changed out with some LT tires, as were my 5er tires. I stopped buying trailer tires and started using the E range LTs. Much better quality.

Hopefully, I'll either be able to find an LT in a 13" tire, or I may be able to squeeze a 14" under those fenders.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've got a question... When you guys trailer your toon, do you leave the controller slightly in forward when using a transom saver so as to allow your motor to "give" a little on rough or bouncy roads?
 
Spoiledrotten, I have also talked with several dealers about a transom savers, They have all told me on Bennington, they have never worked on a transon on a Bennington. They tell me I do not need on for my Bennington 2021 21 foot Pontoon (Yamaha 115 HP). I have a tandon trailer and would like to get a transon saver for peace of mind. What length did you have to get. I measured mine about 50 inches, everybody sales up to 36 inches.
 
Here's an old post about asking the horse...

RolandAdmiral

  • Members
  • bullet_black.png
    bullet_black.png
    bullet_black.png
  • 93 posts
  • LocationShreveport, Louisiana

Posted 06 September 2012 - 04:01 AM

Hi guys... well between this forum and one other I frequent, I pretty much got a mixed bag of answers with regard we should use a transom saver when towing our bennys... so I decided to go right to the horses mouth.. sent an email to Bennington and asked them what the companys stance on this was.... got the reply today, they DO recommend the use of transom savers.... I started out to just get an old fashion TS that connects the trailers cross member to the lower unit... but then started reading all this stuff about " trailer shock " where hitting bumps, potholes, actually may damage the gears in the lower unit.. then I looked into the "wedge" devices, like " m-ywedge.com ". But I think the best one I've seen on the market is called motor mate. It has a bracket that actually bolts to the bottom of the lower unit... then the motor mate clips into that with two extension arms that attach to the lower unit. From what I've seen it not only supports the motor, but it also holds rock solid so that it can't tilt from side to side.... only problem is so far on their web site, the smallest yamaha motor there product will fit in a 4 stroke is a 115... I've got a 75. for those of you interested you can check it out at motormate.com At the top of the screen is a tab for youtube videos... It's a bit expensive, I think around $110 or so... If they don't make one that fits a 75, think I'll go with the wedge that fits over the cylinder rod that raises the motor... Weekends almost here, supposed to be in the low to mid 80's this weekend... screw the lawn, I'm going fishing!!!! before I go, in some or your responses, you said you lowered your motors till the "tabs" caught. Can you explain to me what those are.. I've always just trimmed my motor until it was all the way down when towing.

Roland
I understand the motomate is a hydraulic saver, not a transom saver which requires moving the weight of the motor to the trailer when trimmed up. YouTube has a great video on this detail.
 
I thought about the one you bought and installed but I wasn’t comfortable leaving the motor down close to road. I bought a My Wedge. Basically a rubber block you place around the cylinder. Not sure if this was the best way but the motor stays up and no pressure on the cylinder.
Ps. If anyone does use a rubber block be sure to clean your cylinder rods after a long haul. Dust can get on them and possibly cause an issue with the cylinder seals.
 

Attachments

  • CEC8FC51-AA2B-42C4-B3FB-7F8617D93D6B.jpeg
    CEC8FC51-AA2B-42C4-B3FB-7F8617D93D6B.jpeg
    92.8 KB · Views: 16
  • CE38C612-BA9A-4691-B8A8-7BA4F1483DD4.jpeg
    CE38C612-BA9A-4691-B8A8-7BA4F1483DD4.jpeg
    40.9 KB · Views: 16
I understand the motomate is a hydraulic saver, not a transom saver which requires moving the weight of the motor to the trailer when trimmed up. YouTube has a great video on this detail.
An very informative presentation:
 
An very informative presentation:
I see what the difference is now. 40 years ago I was using the rubber block. I’ve never seen a transom break or crack have damage. I’ve seen hydraulic leaks and issue with tilt and trim. Have the boats changed that it’s necessary to use one? Also on the pontoon the lower unit isn’t as close to ground as maybe a bass or v hull boats. Is it really necessary??
Thanks
 
I see what the difference is now. 40 years ago I was using the rubber block. I’ve never seen a transom break or crack have damage. I’ve seen hydraulic leaks and issue with tilt and trim. Have the boats changed that it’s necessary to use one? Also on the pontoon the lower unit isn’t as close to ground as maybe a bass or v hull boats. Is it really necessary??
Thanks
I've read quite a bit of the arguments on this topic and here's my take. Engine manufacturers like Yamaha recommend a "motor support device" if they can't be trailered in the full down position, which people interpret as protection for the transom. I believe Yamaha and Mercury could care less about the transom, that's the boat mfr's issue if it can't take stresses from bouncing down the road. I believe the engine OEM's want to protect against their trim/tilt mechanisms failing and having the lower unit drag on pavement creating a warranty claim. Hence them specifically using the term "motor support device".

If Bennington specifies that a transom saver be used, then I believe that is to protect THEIR exposure when trailering which would of course be the hull components. Not all transoms are created equal so I don't think there is a universal truth to the need of a transom saver. For some boats it's overkill, others it could very effective.


66BDE2C8-B824-4B1B-90C4-0CE36505E52A.jpeg
 
I see what the difference is now. 40 years ago I was using the rubber block. I’ve never seen a transom break or crack have damage. I’ve seen hydraulic leaks and issue with tilt and trim. Have the boats changed that it’s necessary to use one? Also on the pontoon the lower unit isn’t as close to ground as maybe a bass or v hull boats. Is it really necessary??
Thanks

Potomacbassin' provides some great details above. If engine is in the full down position, then from my limited understanding of engineering, fulcrum's and stress points, it seems the transom saver provides no benefit (it would NOT transfer any weight off the transom to the frame).​

 
Back
Top