Recent content by PartyBarge

If you need a road trip, we have many geese on Keowee and Hartwell year-round. They flock-up in the fall and spring, but too many don't go anywhere! Have a single adult visiting us that can't fly. It's eating well enough, bird seed and critter corn. Expect the fox, yots or eagle will get it if...

More info is needed even if you got to propgods, like what RPM are you getting with the current prop (provided it isn't too damaged). Also besides not pulling, how heavy are you usually running? With only 90 HP the difference between 2-3 aboard versus 5-6 is huge (plus cooler?). Dropping 2"...

Yup, but the boat with a questionable power package may have been recently sold to an unsuspecting buyer for 32 grand? Others beware. (2025 - 2022 = 3).

Well, just to be clear, it's the lean-burn, direct-injected, 2-cycle packages that are their downfall. Those can be great for high power to weight ratios, for high maintenance racing. Our stock 2003 RXDI could indicate 65 MPH with me on it (GPS speed was about 63). However, they are poor for...

Wow, looks like BPR didn't learn anything after earlier go-rounds with lean-burn, direct-injection, 2-cycle disasters! Pretty much started with the circa 2002-2003 Seadoo RXDI fiascos and continued with the Evinrude disaster. They can be great performance/racing motors, but self-destruct...

It is normal for a boat prop to unload with high power in reverse. That will typically both cavitate and aerate the prop. RPM of only 3800 in forward likely means it's time for a tune up or a different prop.

The prop you listed has a user-replaceable insert (not a pressed-in hub). Replacement inserts are readily available, although it sounds like you don't need to do that. Still appears you need a reliable RPM reading, it's possible the existing tach has some internal failure.

I haven't looked through the entire thread, so maybe this has been covered: have you check the tach setting? Most have a selector on the back for different motors (2.3.4 cyl, 2 or 4 cycle). Wrong OR corroded selector/contacts will give false RPM readings. As mentioned before, 15p for your setup...

Can you tell if the noise is mostly exhaust or mechanical? Assuming you've checked the oil levels, it's possible to reduce mechanical noise with fresh oil in the motor AND lower unit. Use the best marine oil from Merc or Yamaha, no skimping. Use the highest viscosity allowed by the manufacture...

"K" prop generally refers to the most basic Yamaha prop, it's actually a hub size. That said, you may be wasting too much HP just beating up the water (aka high slippage with a base-line prop). Your satisfaction is likely to increase with a prop specifically recommended for a pontoon drag...

The rocker switch for our docking lights failed and I was able to swap the wires to an installed, but unused ACC rocker. I looked briefly, but was not able to find a replacement for the failed switch.

Dealers here (upstate SC) are still loaded with inventory and using lots of overflow space. Price adjustment has only just started. The value of my potential trade in might decline, but not much compared to newer markdowns. I will be doing some looking soon.

Welcome to the forum. You'll like it here. To answer the question, need more info. Maybe, starting with what is your objective for the new prop? The weight of your pontoon (aka trim level, tube configuration) is a player as well as current WOT RPM and specs on current prop. Without all of that...

Check the kill switch where the kill lanyard connects. Operate it and put it in the run position. Check that the battery switch, if you have one is in the correct position.

If your prop has a pressed-in hub that is slipping, it won't last long. Stay below the slip point to prolong the use. Has the boat run a better speed with that load previously? Where was the 400 pounds, if only in the back, that could be the problem. How are you checking the speed? boat speedo...