Recent content by texas_jarod

Yeah, my real concern is that I was getting a spark before I hooked up the other battery... then I say no volts from either one. Fingers crossed it's a switch, but what would be related to the voltage meter besides a bad connection. Maybe moving the battery wires around finally severed that...

how much did the alternator run you, and it this something that can be done in the slip? It's not going to be easy to get it to the ramp. Definitely going to try the switch first.

I'm not saying that isn't the case, but I thought the exact same thing about my boat. The leak was high enough in the toon that it stayed consistent for a long time. I also had to replace a bolt in the engine mount/transom because I had lost one and it caused the boat to lean a bit. Just...

My boat was stranded the other day. I was showing 11 volt on the guage. It started to turn, then just clicked like a dead battery... but the battery is new. I noticed my radio was reseting while I was driving around, so I thought it was a loose wire. I friend pulled his battery and connected...

With that amount of lean, I would say water in toon. I just had my left pontoon repaired and I also have a 99' 22 footer. The top left seam was the problem. Only charged me $120 to check both and repair it. You can hear he water if you pull it out and do a start/stop in the parking lot.

it's hitting 5600 RPM all of the sudden. My tach may be a little unpredictable, but I'm also learning the trim capabilities of the aluminum prop vs the stainless.

I have an older boat, and I see these plastic quarter-round strips underneath the deck. They eventually break and let water through the seams at high speed. Can I just replace these with silicone? Maybe bust out the flex seal?

The chart from Yamaha says max RPM should be between 5000 and 6000. I'm sure I could drop another pitch, but 24mph with the family onboard should get us through the summer. My max rpm had dropped to more like 4300-4600 with the old prop. I can see how one might end up with 3 backup props, ha.

UPDATE::: So, the stainless prop I ordered was listed on Ebay as RH Rotation, but they sent me LH and said the description was an error. Then I notice my boat was sinking, so I had the leaking toon drained and repaired at a shop that happened to have a Solas ALUMINUM 13 pitch prop, so I...

Well... every time I fix something, something else goes wrong. The 1999 2275RL has been in the water for a month, and I'm noticing a considerable lean. Does anyone know how much it costs to have a toon leak fixed? And if anyone has experience in the DFW area, that would be helpful.

you are correct, there are 4 on each side. I just got back from my boat slip. I managed to get a bolt in there without pulling the boat out of the water... which is awesome because there’s a huge line of “yahoos” at the ramp every Saturday.

Yes, there are 3 bolts on each side, and it looks like it's been like this for a while for that gap to open up. I'm going to attempt to clamp it with a vice. I didn't feel any threading, so it may already be stripped.

I noticed my boat was sitting a little tilted in the water and saw that a motor mount bolt was missing from the right rear. This has caused about 3" of separation between the mount and the base of the boat. Will I have any trouble wrenching a new bolt in place? Do I need to close that gap...

I could not agree more. For the price of a nice wakeboard jet boat you could have an ultra luxury tritoon that does insane speeds with a full bar. It could pull whatever you want while throwing a dinner party at the same time. To each there own I guess. I can't wait for my next stage tritoon...

I have a slight addiction to fine motorcycles, playing pool, and golf... but adding two kids and a boat made all of those few and far between.