Wash Down Faucet on my 2250 GBR

[whitacre]

I've got another odd question to ask. I'm very new to boating, so a lot of this I am learning as I go. My boat has a sink and a faucet that flips up and down. I filled the tank under the seat with 5 gallons of water. I expected that when I turned the round knob that water would flow out of the faucet. I have a WashDown switch on the side of the sink. No matter which way I turn the knob or which way I flip the switch (up or donw) I cannot seem to get the water to flow. I've tried with the ACC switch on as well as with the key on - no luck. I don't hear a motor or pump that I might have expected either.

I called my dealer, and he was going to research it and get back with me. In the meantime, does anyone have this type of washdown sink, and am I missing a step somewhere? It's not a big deal, but I'm trying to determine if something is not working as expected (broken) or if I just don't know how to use it.

Thanks.

Joe

 

[Jim_R]

Joe,

I'm thinking pictures of your setup would help. Anyway, the way your setup should work is as follows: A 5 Gallon tank (which you filled) should have tubing of some sort inserted inside to supply water. The other end of this tubing would go to the inlet on a pump (if an electric pump is present) or directly to the faucet (if a manual pump style faucet was installed). Given that you mention the faucet has a spigot, I'm thinking a pump is present. That pump is almost certainly 12V, and will have positive and negative power leads going to it. Usually, the positive lead will be switched. Many of these demand type pumps can be left on for an extended time, but when leaving the boat you would want to power it down. It would probably be wired to a switch at the helm, but not be wired to your Accy 1 switch, more likely Accy 2 or Accy 3. You could look under your seat for the pump and trace the wires using the color codes, or better yet see if electrical schematics are available for your model and year. If this was an aftermarket install, could be that there are negative and positive connections at the house battery that were not reconnected.

If you live in an area that freezes in the winter, the system (manual or electric) must be winterized. You would pump a small amount of RV 'pink' antifreeze through the pump and faucet, then shut it off. If this wasn't done, your pump and possibly faucet could have been damaged.

Post the year and model, and some pics of the faucet and pump, and maybe we can help more.

 

[gregwilson]

I have a similar set up. There is a black rocker switch that has to be on. When on you will hear the pump pressure up and cut off. My boat is new and worked for a week and then stopped. my problem was there is a factory connector 4 pin plug that the male pins were not making connection. I simply unplugged and took a small screwdriver and spreaded the pins and put back together. this also feed my frig. No problem now.

 

[DJMbrooks]

I have a fridge and sink set up as well. I have a rocker switch labeled "fresh water" which kicks on the water pump. I agree with the suggestion to follow the wires from the pump if you can't find a switch that works.

 

[Manitowish1]

I have the pump set up as well. I first filled the tank, I then must turn on the rocker switch that activates the pump. My rocker switch is not located on the helm, but on the side of the bar, in my case next to a switch to test the separate battery for the refrigerator. I also must have the master electric rocker switch in the on position. This switch is located on the right side of the helm and looks totally different from the rest of the rocker switches. Once the circuit is complete the pump come on and pressurizes the entire system, once pressurized the pump turns off because the system is pressurized. Water is now available. Once the system requires additional pressure the pump briefly comes on to add additional water pressure.

 

[whitacre]

Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I'll be able to check the wiring and connections tomorrow. I'll let you know.