2026 M22 - Anchor & blue light issues

[Doc2485]

Hi to all! I cannot get the anchor light or blue lights under canvas to come on? I have tested the wires with my multi-tester and do not get any volts at all? I used a jump wire from direct battery to the anchor light and it comes on fine. I see one dark blue wire and black wire coming in the right bottom side of frame right beside the shifter area...not for sure if that feeds both of the lights in the bimini? Still get no volts there either? I think I see the same dark blue and black wire under the helm BUT with so many wires everywhere...I wish they labels all of them for us non boat mechanics to trace them out? Is there a breaker somewhere that may have to be reset?
Dealership is so so far away from me.... I hope I can fix it myself but if not they are my last option.

Does anyone have ideas how to resolve this?

 

[Jack M]

The small buttons on your helm are breakers

 

[Doc2485]

Everything on this boat on the dash is digital. Only a horn and power button that I see?

 

[Jack M]

They must have changed that for 26 . Sorry

 

[Doc2485]

Yes it is totally different for sure...I really like it alot!

 

[Seadoorxpguy]

rgb buttom

 

[Clark]

I have a M22 2026 as well. Mine only work if the anchor light is on.

 

[Doc2485]

Yes it is on for sure and all worked fine before 4 days ago.

 

[Clark]

I got his from bennigton.

 

[Doc2485]

Thank you for that info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The grey/blue wire is both running to the anchor and bimini lights and both are dead? I do not know where to find that block in the pic attached or why it is not getting volts?

 

[LD50]

Thank you for that info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The grey/blue wire is both running to the anchor and bimini lights and both are dead? I do not know where to find that block in the pic attached or why it is not getting volts?

If you look more closely at that schematic, I believe the block you are referencing is the 12 pin harness for the stereo and I believe that wire is actually a positive power input to the led functions from the stereo (possible backlighting for any remotes or the physical controls on the dash). I think the best place for you to start looking is in the QHBI module in the middle of the top of the schematic. If you open the door of the console it will be on the starboard wall, upper right.

From looking at that module in the past, I believe that it is more or less a large, multi-channel relay that and controls sending power to most of the functions that are triggered by the controls of the Vivid UX. It has a rubber panel on it with 5 or 6 fuses underneath. Those fuses are where I would start. Fair warning, you'll probably want one of those fuse puller tools or some small needlenose pliers. They are a pain to get out and put back in while laying on your back wedged into the helm.

 

[Doc2485]

Yes ty! I pulled the fuses out and they all look good to me. Its a very strange issue for sure....

 

[LD50]

Wish I could help more, but I'm almost out of ideas on this one. When you use the touch screen to turn those lights on, do you hear hear a clicking sound from the QHB1 module? From what I remember, you should be able to hear the relays in the module open and close for most functions. Other than that, you could try unplugging and plugging in the harness on that module to see if it's a bad connection with the pin for that blue/gray wire. The only other thing I can think of to try would be check the continuity of that wire. The easiest place to that would probably be between the courtesy light on the side of the helm or the stereo harness and the harness on the QHB1. If a continuity test shows that there's a break in that wire, I'd try to follow it from the courtesy light, QHB1 harness, or the stereo harness. The schematic shows that wire splitting into 4 feeds to the various lighting circuits. Where the wires split would seem to be the most likely point of failure.

 

[Doc2485]

Yes I have been testing all those in between and still get nothing on my meter? Its very very very sad now you spend this amount of money on a boat and all support is DIY. Fighting these issues on brand new models has 100% killed my boating experience and cannot afford it anymore either with cost of everything out of this world.

 

[LD50]

I think you said you tested for voltage, but did you test for continuity in the blue/gray wire? You could also test for voltage directly off of the corresponding pin on that QHB1 module. If you're not getting anything there, it could be the module is bad or there's an issue between the module and Vivid display or with the display itself. Beyond that blue/gray wire having a break in it somewhere, you're probably stuck with a dealer visit. I like mine, but I'm seriously disheartened when I see the wiring rat's nest. It's hard for me to comprehend how that can be considered a finished product with what these boats cost.

Good luck and I hope you get it figured out. Please let us know if you find the answer as I'm really curious as to what the problem is.

 

[Doc2485]

Correct...all I did is test for voltage. I am not a full time boat mechanic or I would have already fixed it but do not have the knowledge to go to deep in it. Dealer is 100% horrible... emailed them, called them 3 times in one week and heard nothing at all from them? Their business scheme is sell all the new boats they can out the door and any warranty is at the bottom of their list or just do not want you to call or bother them at all.

 

[LD50]

If you haven't already, I'd pull the connector off of the QHB1 that houses the blue/gray wire and test the pin that corresponds to that wire for voltage. If there's no voltage there with the switches turned on, you're probably at a dead end. If there is voltage on that pin, you'd want to use your multi-meter to test the continuity of that wire between the QHB1 and the courtesy light and again between the QHB1 and the same wire on the stereo harness. If you don't have continuity, there's a break in the wire, probably where it branches to the stereo, anchor light, courtesy light, and bimini lights. That's really the only other point of failure common to the 3 items you're having issue with.

Alternately, you could just see if you could follow that wire from any one of those points to see if theres a place where they all come together. It could be that they tied all 4 wires together with a crimp connector that has pulled loose. Anything upstream of that would involve issuses with the QHB1, Vivid, or NMEA network which would be outside of my comfort level to help diagnose.