ericscher
Well-Known Member
I bought a set of aftermarket docking lights at my local marina.
These are small form factor lights, a rounded oval about 4" x 1.5" with a 55watt bulb in each.
I used a wire "harness" that was made for a trailer and contained four Siamesed wires in a flat ribbon, which allowed me to run a separate hot and ground wire for each light, back to the console area.
The wires off the lights were 18g and the harness was 16g. It was either that or 16g vs 14g. To be honest, as I type this I cannot recall, except that the harness was one gauge larger, which is actually good as it helps to make up for the length. (25' total)
At that point I turned it over to the mechanic at my local marina for three reasons...
Well, the first time I tried to use them, they popped the circuit breaker.
I thought at first that it was a question of the lights drawing too much power for the breaker, but then I checked the math.
Since Amps x Volt = Watts and therefore Amps = Watts ÷ Volts. The bulbs are 55w each, so that's 110w, which when divided by the voltage (12v) yields bit under 9.2 Amps.
The face of each circuit breaker on my dashboard has the number "10" molded into it, which I am ASSUMING means it's a 10 amp unit.
Well, that should be enough, right? Except that the breaker keeps popping so clearly there's a problem.
I go under the console and fit one arm and my head inside to take a look.
I should probably mention at this point that I presume Bennington uses standard basic wiring harnesses across several product lines just as any rational company would, and only hooks up those wires that are needed for each build.
Now, my boat, a 2006 Sedona L21 did not come with docking lights when I bought it. However, there seems to be a provision for them in the harness.
When I went under the console I saw that the mechanic had combined the two "hot" lead and the two "ground" leads into one connector for each. The ground side was connected to the back of one of my gauges to what I presume he figured was a common ground.
The hot side was connected to one of the three posts coming off the back of my "Docking Lights" switch, which was already on the console. There is a wire coming out of the existing harness with the appropriate connector on it which seems to have been pulled loose from the switch. I am guessing that it the lead for what WOULD have been my factory/dealer Docking Lights if my boat had been equipped with them.
That spot, which the factory line vacated, is now occupied by the "Hot" line for my docking lights.
One last thing I should mention... I have not tried using the docking lights with the engine running.
So, I am a bit stumped here....
It would SEEM that I have a large enough breaker (10amp) for my lights (9.2amp) but hat assumes the #10 on the face of the breaker means what I think it does.
If it does not, then perhaps there is something in the way the factory harness is wired that leads to a greater current draw when I turn the switch on than the breaker is capable of handling.
OR...
Perhaps the ground needs to be hooked directly to the back of the docking light switch and NOT to a common ground on the back of one of the gauges.
Those are my thoughts so far.
It happens to be raining now, but if nobody has an answer for me before the next sunny day I will remember to get out there with a camera and post a picture.
In the meantime, anyone with a thought on this issue is invited to speak up. And thanks in advance.
These are small form factor lights, a rounded oval about 4" x 1.5" with a 55watt bulb in each.
I used a wire "harness" that was made for a trailer and contained four Siamesed wires in a flat ribbon, which allowed me to run a separate hot and ground wire for each light, back to the console area.
The wires off the lights were 18g and the harness was 16g. It was either that or 16g vs 14g. To be honest, as I type this I cannot recall, except that the harness was one gauge larger, which is actually good as it helps to make up for the length. (25' total)
At that point I turned it over to the mechanic at my local marina for three reasons...
- I figured they could more easily make the actual insertion via the existing chase from under the deck and into the console than I could in my driveway.
- They know these boats better than I do and would be better able to make the hookup to the existing docking light switch on the console.
- I don't fit under the console all that well.
Well, the first time I tried to use them, they popped the circuit breaker.
I thought at first that it was a question of the lights drawing too much power for the breaker, but then I checked the math.
Since Amps x Volt = Watts and therefore Amps = Watts ÷ Volts. The bulbs are 55w each, so that's 110w, which when divided by the voltage (12v) yields bit under 9.2 Amps.
The face of each circuit breaker on my dashboard has the number "10" molded into it, which I am ASSUMING means it's a 10 amp unit.
Well, that should be enough, right? Except that the breaker keeps popping so clearly there's a problem.
I go under the console and fit one arm and my head inside to take a look.
I should probably mention at this point that I presume Bennington uses standard basic wiring harnesses across several product lines just as any rational company would, and only hooks up those wires that are needed for each build.
Now, my boat, a 2006 Sedona L21 did not come with docking lights when I bought it. However, there seems to be a provision for them in the harness.
When I went under the console I saw that the mechanic had combined the two "hot" lead and the two "ground" leads into one connector for each. The ground side was connected to the back of one of my gauges to what I presume he figured was a common ground.
The hot side was connected to one of the three posts coming off the back of my "Docking Lights" switch, which was already on the console. There is a wire coming out of the existing harness with the appropriate connector on it which seems to have been pulled loose from the switch. I am guessing that it the lead for what WOULD have been my factory/dealer Docking Lights if my boat had been equipped with them.
That spot, which the factory line vacated, is now occupied by the "Hot" line for my docking lights.
One last thing I should mention... I have not tried using the docking lights with the engine running.
So, I am a bit stumped here....
It would SEEM that I have a large enough breaker (10amp) for my lights (9.2amp) but hat assumes the #10 on the face of the breaker means what I think it does.
If it does not, then perhaps there is something in the way the factory harness is wired that leads to a greater current draw when I turn the switch on than the breaker is capable of handling.
OR...
Perhaps the ground needs to be hooked directly to the back of the docking light switch and NOT to a common ground on the back of one of the gauges.
Those are my thoughts so far.
It happens to be raining now, but if nobody has an answer for me before the next sunny day I will remember to get out there with a camera and post a picture.
In the meantime, anyone with a thought on this issue is invited to speak up. And thanks in advance.
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