Bazooka 8" or 10" Self Amped Sub Woofer On 2275 GCW - Has Anyone Here Done It?

You have to be careful with the grounds introducing interference into the audio system, a high pitch sound or squeal.  I was troubleshooting this for a long time with the power steering pump.  As much of the audio system you can isolate the better.
 
I just looked it up, the Marine unit instructions says it is a chassis ground.  It specifically says they do not recommend extending the grounding cable to the battery, says it can cause ground loops.  So, do I not follow the instructions?  This has me confused.

Edit:  Just want to say I do appreciate all the input and I pass it along to the guy doing my installation.  It is just difficult to talk him into doing something when he says it should not be that way, it says right here in the instructions on how to do it.  So I really am listening to you guys :)
If it were me, and it just might be, I would call Bazzoka Tech Support and get their input on which way(s) to make the proper power connection.
 
Here is a snapshot of the Wet Sounds installation instructions for their Sinister series amps. I trust them more than any local installers around MY parts.



And here is a link so you can download the whole user manual, wish we could upload pdf's, anyway, Page 7

https://wetsounds.com/pages/products/SD6_spec.html
 
Yeah, not doubting some people and some OEM's say this.  Just wondering why the discrepancy amongst so many sights.  I have been browsing many forums today, it seems like a 50/50 split on where to run the ground in a Marine application.  I guess if my system is running good and no noise, maybe I am good to go?  If I notice anything I guess i will start over and run it myself.

Thanks for all the good info.
 
Well, here is the quick short reply I got from Bazooka about the ground:

"Ground terminal is best if it is a shorter run."I asked if on a Marine application should I run to ground terminal under helm or back tobattery. Quite the short email :)
 
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Scott , all I can say is I Don't Care What Bazooka says!HAHA They obviously have some issues because Wet Sounds, JL Audio, Polk Audio, Exile, and pretty much any other quality marine manufacturer states IN THE MANUAL, to run it to the battery. Do a Google search for "installing amp in pontoon where to ground?" and the first four sites all say to battery. More than likely Bazooka is using their same installation manual that they use for cars. If you have an amp that is trying to pull a lot of current, it will be limited by the helm ground if it is a smaller wire. As I said, for running one Bazooka tube, with not a ton of wattage, you may be just fine. If you were running three amps well that's a whole different ballgame! 
 
I agree with Derrick.   They are most likely going off of their car audio experience. You can ground an amp just about anywhere in a car.  If you don't run speaker wires or RCA cables along the same run as the power and ground I doubt you will have any issue running all the way back to the battery for ground. Now if you pulled large enough cable for both power and ground to your helm and setup a secondary fuse block like I did then you can run your amp ground to it and shouldn't have a problem.  
 
Scott , all I can say is I Don't Care What Bazooka says!HAHA They obviously have some issues because Wet Sounds, JL Audio, Polk Audio, Exile, and pretty much any other quality marine manufacturer states IN THE MANUAL, to run it to the battery. Do a Google search for "installing amp in pontoon where to ground?" and the first four sites all say to battery. More than likely Bazooka is using their same installation manual that they use for cars. If you have an amp that is trying to pull a lot of current, it will be limited by the helm ground if it is a smaller wire. As I said, for running one Bazooka tube, with not a ton of wattage, you may be just fine. If you were running three amps well that's a whole different ballgame! 
Derrik, don't take my postings wrong, you have been a great help.  It was suggested on here that I contact them, I did.  Just for clarification, I have googled this, and it is 50% one way or the other.  I have trolled :) different sites for Marine installation and this is ALWAYS a huge debate.  Anyway, like you said I am probably fine with just this quick small installation of mine so I will just run with it and change it in the future if I have to.
 
I agree with Derrick.   They are most likely going off of their car audio experience. You can ground an amp just about anywhere in a car.  If you don't run speaker wires or RCA cables along the same run as the power and ground I doubt you will have any issue running all the way back to the battery for ground. Now if you pulled large enough cable for both power and ground to your helm and setup a secondary fuse block like I did then you can run your amp ground to it and shouldn't have a problem.  
My installer says Bennington ran 10 guage from battery to my helm.  I don't know if that is good or bad :)
 
Don't worry Scott, I'm not offended!   :) that's why I put the laugh in! My point was simply that every major MARINE stereo company all say battery. I'm not sure where you are seeing a 50/50 split as so far pretty much every reputable forum I go to, for boating, says battery. Here is a link to Wakeworld, these guys know stereos, and the link actually has install comments from both the Kicker rep and the Earmark Audio guy. It also has an interesting schematic for reducing / eliminating ground hum from headunit which I have never seen, but I'm almost positive that was how my cousin made me do! Haha now I know why! 

http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=727021

This is from Mastercraft forum, once again, battery, and they actually talk about the wakeworld post too. The JimN guy who does most of the troubleshooting says he used to do it for a living,

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/archive/index.php/t-42059.html

I also think that the 10G ground wire may limit your output, especially if you have a lot of accessories running and stereo cranked up (headunit, fish finder, lights on, Power Steering) you will max out the capacity of the 10G. But once again, with a small amp like on the Bazooka, it may just work. If you ever decide to add amps, you absolutely have to run probably 4G power and ground to batteries and use distribution blocks. Seriously, I do hope it works for you! I just hate redoing stuff, so overbuild the first time to be ready for the next time!
 
Yeah, I am with you Derrick on over doing things the first time.  My problem is I am working away and the guy that was recommended to me to do the install is very stubborn.  I told him I don't care the extra time it takes, I will pay.  He just seemed like he was going to do it the way he always does no matter what.  He said he turned everything on that he could, took voltage and amp readings, let my system play for 30 minutes and everything still measured fine.  I just found it difficult to argue with him from away and my limited experience.  Next time, it will be overdone! :)
 
There is a strong practical case, irrespective of wire size and common grounds, for mounting the Bazooka close to the battery if there is the physical space available to do it (under a vented seat or lounge).

If physically possible, you can use an already installed nearby speaker wire output from the head unit or outboard amp for a High Signal Level Bazooka input. This effectively kills two birds with one stone: (1) Ends the debate on wire size/running new wires and grounding problems because it's very easy to do with any wire size you might want & (2) It may easily get the Bazooka in close to the battery. And that just might be the ideal location for best Bazooka performance anyway.

I would also agree that wiring to the battery direct is the way to go.
 
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Yeah, I am with you Derrick on over doing things the first time.  My problem is I am working away and the guy that was recommended to me to do the install is very stubborn.  I told him I don't care the extra time it takes, I will pay.  He just seemed like he was going to do it the way he always does no matter what.  He said he turned everything on that he could, took voltage and amp readings, let my system play for 30 minutes and everything still measured fine.  I just found it difficult to argue with him from away and my limited experience.  Next time, it will be overdone! :)
Haha, sounds like a handful! The part that makes me laugh about him is that he saw it fit to run 8G power, but figures 10G ground will "work just fine". So under the helm there is probably 10G + for powering the accessories,  10G - for grounding them, but then he figures it makes sense to add 8G of power without the need to add more grounding ability. As far as his "voltage and readings" well it won't tell him crap. If the ground cable is maxed, then the power cable won't be fully utilized. Think of it like a highway, if you have an 8 lane highway filled with cars, then a tunnel that only has two lanes, how much throughput do you have? 2 lanes. So I stand by what I say, I think it will limit the output.  Another thing to keep in mind is that with long runs of power and ground, Bigger is always better! An 8G wire with a long run can have enough resistance to only provide a 10 or even 12G throughput. That goes for ground wire too. Which is why running quality wire, such as Wet Sounds Wet Wire( :D ) , can make a huge difference, and also costs a fortune! I understand you are at the mercy of your installer in your situation, I would be interested to know what "readings" he would have if he just took a ground cable and ran it on top of the deck to the battery. To see if there was an increase in audio output. Although as I said originally, with just a single small amp in the Bazooka, it may not matter. BUT for anyone else, such as the original poster to this thread, I would highly recommend, as would every other major marine manufacturer and every high powered installation wakeboat forum that I could find. :D  
 
Just wait awhile and Derrick will give you the scoop and poop
See, I told you way back that Derrick would give you all the info you needed and you SHOULD LISTEN TO HIM. :)   He has "Been there, Done That"   and has pictures.

As for me, I spent about $3,000 on a stero system in my pre-Bennington Cobalt. Extra batteries (3) total, big power cables, POWER and GROUND to the battery, :) 2 amps, nice speakers and sub. Damn thing would shut off if I hit some rough water. Would have to turn it back on. However, it worked good on the trailer in the garage. I used to turn it up so we could hear it while swimming in the pool.

When anchored, some damn kid, think his name was Derrick :) ,  would always have his stero blasting with some head banging crap that would muffle my Kid Rock music. I just basically gave all that stuff away with the boat when I sold it.

I upgraded my Benny stero to Bluetooth and I'm happy with that. Spent the $$ I saved on flag poles and YETI Coolers and Colsters.

My old adage was "Buy the biggest, the baddest, the fastest, the most expensive". I'll pass that on to you younguns...... :) :) :)
 
Toon'r, funny, my next purchase may be a Yeti cooler, but dang they are heavy :)
 
There is a strong practical case, irrespective of wire size and common grounds, for mounting the Bazooka close to the battery if there is the physical space available to do it (under a vented seat or lounge).

If physically possible, you can use an already installed nearby speaker wire output from the head unit or outboard amp for a High Signal Level Bazooka input. This effectively kills two birds with one stone: (1) Ends the debate on wire size/running new wires and grounding problems because it's very easy to do with any wire size you might want & (2) It may easily get the Bazooka in close to the battery. And that just might be the ideal location for best Bazooka performance anyway.

I would also agree that wiring to the battery direct is the way to go.
Tooncrazy, I just want to say, back to the original question, I am obviously a fan of the Wet Sounds AS-10. I have yet to hear anyone on here complain about its performance. I don't have any door rattle, and never leave it open. If I did, some simple gasket material would solve that issue. Another reason I like the AS-10 is because it is a 10" sub. In my younger years in cars, I've had 8" and 10", and drove around for more hours than I like to remember in my buddies with 2 12". Point is I like the sound of a 10". 8's can give a super tight bass, but don't perform as well as a 12" for really low rumble. I find 10's to be the perfect fit/compromise between the two. Obviously you need to have the power to move the 12" too! I see Wet Sounds now have a 6.5" sub available, I would love to hear it and see if it would work well for some extra fill up front, you know because the 10" at the helm and 2 10's in the loungers just aren't enough!!! Haha. All that being said, obviously the AS-10 does come with the issue of running cable, which we have covered enough, so for a simple addition, the Bazooka will perform just fine as you described it. I'm not sure how well it will carry to the front passengers, especially while under way, but for floating around, probably be just fine. Every situation has a different solution. 
 
Toon'r, funny, my next purchase may be a Yeti cooler, but dang they are heavy :)
Yes they are a bit on the heavy side but with good cause. My YETI 125 weighs 52# empty. You set it down put in 60-90 beers, a few water bottles ( to mix with the bourbon later in the evening), then fill it with ice and sprinkle a little Rock Salt over it. I did this last Friday. When I emptied it out on Sunday evening, there were 3 water bottles in the bottom that had froze.

They are like Benny's....... Cost a bit more but they are the Biggest, Baddest, Most Expensive but not the fastest cause they hold the ice a loooong time.
 
Yes they are a bit on the heavy side but with good cause. My YETI 125 weighs 52# empty. You set it down put in 60-90 beers, a few water bottles ( to mix with the bourbon later in the evening), then fill it with ice and sprinkle a little Rock Salt over it. I did this last Friday. When I emptied it out on Sunday evening, there were 3 water bottles in the bottom that had froze.

They are like Benny's....... Cost a bit more but they are the Biggest, Baddest, Most Expensive but not the fastest cause they hold the ice a loooong time.
Yes, I hear they are the best.  I have never heard about the rock salt trick before, does this keep the ice longer?

By the way, that sounds exactly what I fill my cooler with for a sunset ride on the lake :)
 
.... then fill it with ice and sprinkle a little Rock Salt over it. I did this last Friday. When I emptied it out on Sunday evening, there were 3 water bottles in the bottom that had froze.
I never thought about rock salt!

I've complained since day 1 about how fast ice melts if I don't cool it down with dry ice the day before I plan to use it. I'm going to try your trick this weekend.
 
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