First Winterization Maintenance Questions

AuthorizedUser

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Hello trusted Benny owners! I've had a TREMENDOUS summer on the lake with my Bennington. Heaven on Earth! One season down, many more to go! Since I am a handy guy (or a stupid one), I have decided to do ALL the winterization of my boat. My marina will only need to pull the boat out, block in my driveway, then move it to their indoor storage when I'm done (or shrinkwrap it if I can't get into indoor storage). I have done a TON of research and believe I can do all of the recommended maintenance on my VF90 (SHO) and boat. However, I have a few questions. This is a long post, so I apologize in advance.

I am buying all my parts from PartsVu:
Where it gets confusing is with the fuel system. I intend to fill it up 7/8 full, then add the appropriate amount of Fuel Stabilizer SKU# ACC-FSTAB-PL-12. But it's at this point where I'm getting conflicting recommendations. My motor's manual says to spray Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil SKU #ACC-STORE-RI-TE into the intake silencer until it smokes blue and nearly stalls. HOWEVER, everyone on YouTube is saying to fog a fuel injected motor, you must mix Yamaha EFI Engine Storage Fogging Oil SKU #32OZ - ACC-STORR-IT-32 into two gallons of canister gasoline, disconnect the crimped bulb fuel line, and run the mixed gas for 10-15 minutes until blue smoke exits the prop. So, which is it? Also, there is this thing called Ring Free Plus Fuel Additive SKU #ACC-RNGFR-PL-32... do I need that, too? I am stymied on this!

Also, I assume I need a 1-1/16" socket for the prop nut, yes? However, I can't find the cotter pin I need on PartsVu (there are so many!). Can anyone find me the SKU?

Finally, how important is exact torque on spark plugs, oil filter, fuel filter, lower drain unit screws, etc.?

For complete transparency, this is my planned routine:

Marina
  • Fill tank ⅞ full with fresh, treated, zero-ethanol gas
  • Pull from water and transport to house and block
House
  • Add fuel additive to ⅞ full tank and run through engine
  • Change motor oil and filter
  • Change lower unit lube
  • Change both fuel filters
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Fog the engine TBD
  • Pressure wash logs
  • Reapply Sharkhide protectant
  • Grease fittings and prop splines
  • Spray silicone on recommended lube points under cowling
  • Disconnect hose port and flush engine with it off. Drain completely (turn motor back and forth)
  • Lower motor and dry crank 3x
  • Remove all items from boat
  • Clean and wax engine
  • Clean boat
  • Tilt engine for transport and remove battery (Shouldn’t the motor be stored in the fully down position for the winter? If it's tilted up for transport with no battery, how will they lower it in storage?)
I really appreciate your thoughts on this matter!

Dave
 

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sunedog

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To winterize the fuel system, I fill my tank with non-ethanol at a gas station off the water on my way back to my house from the ramp. I add a heavy dose of fuel stabilizer at the gas station. It gets mixed pretty well on the ride home. I run the motor with muffs on it for 10 minutes or more as part of my crankcase oil change routine so the treated fuel gets everywhere in the fuel system.

After the oil change, I remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly in each cylinder. Re-install the plugs and bump the starter a few times to distribute the fogging oil in the cylinders. I think that is more effective than spraying into the intake silencer while the motor is running. And it's a lot easier and cheaper than mixing fogging oil with 2 gallons of gas and running that through.

I did a write up of my winterizing procedure a couple of seasons ago. Maybe something in here will help you as well.

Winterizing Tips
 

sunedog

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Oh...forgot to address importance of torque wrench. I've been maintaining, fixing and upgrading my stuff for almost 50 years and I don't own a torque wrench.
 

Potomacbassin’

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I was going to question the fogging method but sunedog addressed one well known method. If you manual says fog the intake, disregard youtube if only for warranty purposes.

I also think just running the motor every now and again (once a month?) whether with muffs or water barrel to get any condensation worked out and everything nice and re-lubed would negate having to fog. It also probably helps other systems such as fuel and electrical (batteries) to exercise the engine every now and again.
 

BulldogsCadillac

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Hello trusted Benny owners! I've had a TREMENDOUS summer on the lake with my Bennington. Heaven on Earth! One season down, many more to go! Since I am a handy guy (or a stupid one), I have decided to do ALL the winterization of my boat. My marina will only need to pull the boat out, block in my driveway, then move it to their indoor storage when I'm done (or shrinkwrap it if I can't get into indoor storage). I have done a TON of research and believe I can do all of the recommended maintenance on my VF90 (SHO) and boat. However, I have a few questions. This is a long post, so I apologize in advance.

I am buying all my parts from PartsVu:
Where it gets confusing is with the fuel system. I intend to fill it up 7/8 full, then add the appropriate amount of Fuel Stabilizer SKU# ACC-FSTAB-PL-12. But it's at this point where I'm getting conflicting recommendations. My motor's manual says to spray Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil SKU #ACC-STORE-RI-TE into the intake silencer until it smokes blue and nearly stalls. HOWEVER, everyone on YouTube is saying to fog a fuel injected motor, you must mix Yamaha EFI Engine Storage Fogging Oil SKU #32OZ - ACC-STORR-IT-32 into two gallons of canister gasoline, disconnect the crimped bulb fuel line, and run the mixed gas for 10-15 minutes until blue smoke exits the prop. So, which is it? Also, there is this thing called Ring Free Plus Fuel Additive SKU #ACC-RNGFR-PL-32... do I need that, too? I am stymied on this!

Also, I assume I need a 1-1/16" socket for the prop nut, yes? However, I can't find the cotter pin I need on PartsVu (there are so many!). Can anyone find me the SKU?

Finally, how important is exact torque on spark plugs, oil filter, fuel filter, lower drain unit screws, etc.?

For complete transparency, this is my planned routine:

Marina
  • Fill tank ⅞ full with fresh, treated, zero-ethanol gas
  • Pull from water and transport to house and block
House
  • Add fuel additive to ⅞ full tank and run through engine
  • Change motor oil and filter
  • Change lower unit lube
  • Change both fuel filters
  • Replace spark plugs
  • Fog the engine TBD
  • Pressure wash logs
  • Reapply Sharkhide protectant
  • Grease fittings and prop splines
  • Spray silicone on recommended lube points under cowling
  • Disconnect hose port and flush engine with it off. Drain completely (turn motor back and forth)
  • Lower motor and dry crank 3x
  • Remove all items from boat
  • Clean and wax engine
  • Clean boat
  • Tilt engine for transport and remove battery (Shouldn’t the motor be stored in the fully down position for the winter? If it's tilted up for transport with no battery, how will they lower it in storage?)
I really appreciate your thoughts on this matter!

Dave
Double check your manual and see if your lower unit gear lube is HD vs regular. On my 200hp and 250hp it is the HD. Also, I didn't look up your kit, but be sure to check if you are getting regular Yamalube or full synthetic, they have a kit in both. Also I don't see any listing for the muff. I assume the 90 is the same design as the 200+, check where your water intake is as mine requires a fancy fighter jet mouth piece looking thing, regular muffs don't work. Do not run the motor on the hose connection, but I assume you know that.

I ran Ring Free Plus with every tank, then at the end of year added Yamalube Fuel stabilizer and conditioner in correct proportions. Filled the tank right to the top and never had any issues come spring. Since I'm in the cold of Canada, it was usually a LONG winter sleep. How many hours on motor?
 

BigKahuna

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Towards the end of every season when I know I'll be taking the boat out soon I'll add the fuel stabilizer then fill up with ethanol free fuel. We'll run it as usual so the "fuel mix" is thoroughly in the entire fuel system. When we take the boat out I'll top off and add the appropriate amount of stabilizer. Ready for next season!!! Of course the I/O had a little more work to do but this outboard winterization is easy!
 

Bill N

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This will seem like a no brainer, but when you remove oil filter, make sure that the o ring came off as well. It's a common error to miss this and end up with two o rings = Huge Mess!
I like to briefly run after changing oil and filter and check for any leaks.

Another no brainer, NEVER run engine without water supplied to water pump.
 

Jack M

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I pay the extra few bucks and let the dealer maintain mine .If anything is messed up I know who did it .:cool:
 

AuthorizedUser

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I pay the extra few bucks and let the dealer maintain mine .If anything is messed up I know who did it .:cool:
I hear ya! But I really WANT to do it. I don’t touch my cars. Ever. But this outboard seems compact and finite. Nice little package that I can tackle. I’m looking forward to it.
 

AuthorizedUser

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Double check your manual and see if your lower unit gear lube is HD vs regular. On my 200hp and 250hp it is the HD. Also, I didn't look up your kit, but be sure to check if you are getting regular Yamalube or full synthetic, they have a kit in both. Also I don't see any listing for the muff. I assume the 90 is the same design as the 200+, check where your water intake is as mine requires a fancy fighter jet mouth piece looking thing, regular muffs don't work. Do not run the motor on the hose connection, but I assume you know that.

I ran Ring Free Plus with every tank, then at the end of year added Yamalube Fuel stabilizer and conditioner in correct proportions. Filled the tank right to the top and never had any issues come spring. Since I'm in the cold of Canada, it was usually a LONG winter sleep. How many hours on motor?
All good info. At this time, 87 hours... but I still have two weeks!
 

BigKahuna

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I used to do the winterization myself and on an I/O it was a little more involved. I had a good system and I stuck with it. My first I/O was carbureted and after killing the engine by spraying fogging oil into the carburetor while running antifreeze through the block I even took each spark plug out and sprayed fogging oil into each cylinder. What was I thinking? That was a lot of work! As I got "older" I realized that. Ha! That's when I started paying somebody else to do it!
 

AuthorizedUser

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All... I called to follow up with Yamaha regarding the instruction to spray fogging oil into the intake silencer as identified in the manual. However, They recommend I mix the bottled fogging oil with gasoline and run through the engine since its EFI. But they also said I could still follow the manual and spray it in the intake. I have no idea what to do! What would YOU do?
 

Potomacbassin’

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I would follow the manual .Its in writing.:cool:
Agreed - for all you know, the live body you talked to was the mail room guy who happened to pick up the phone. Yamaha will conveniently not have a record of this if something bad happens.

Plus spraying the silencer seems pretty low effort - use the saved time to enjoy an extra beer for a job well done!
 

Vikingstaff

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Manual every time unless you get it in writing. At the end of the day, that’s what you’d be held accountable to if there were an issue, problem, potential warranty item, etc….
 

dshannon11

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i would think the fuel stabilizer is for the EFI injectors/gas and the fogging oil is for the cylinder walls... so spraying into the intake seems sufficient as long as you get blue smoke.

the gas tank with fogging oil is a pain to rig (disconnect fuel line, etc) but easy to let it run until smoking.

I still don't have a motor for the boat i ordered in Feb so I don't have much winterizing to do :)

another thing ive seen is a pump/hose that goes down into drain pan to suck out engine oil as opposed to draining out bottom and running all over motor.
 

BulldogsCadillac

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Yes, I have one of those. If I remember correctly, that's how the manual tells you to do it. It's a Mityvac if I also remember that correctly
 

AuthorizedUser

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Another update. I contacted my dealer/marina and talked to the master technician for Yamaha engines there. He recommended that I do not spray into the intake silencer as that just builds up gunk in that area with EFI engines. He said disconnecting the fuel line to run the fogging oil through the engine via the gas is unnecessary since I have used the marina’s fuel all season, which is non-ethanol and already treated with ValveTech (or something like that). He did say that it couldn’t hurt to spray the fogging oil directly into the cylinder heads when I change the spark plugs. As long as I crank the engine for a second or two to coat the cylinders after I spray it. Their winterizing package doesn’t even include that, so I think whatever I do I will be ahead of the game. By the way, the person I spoke with at Yamaha was a service mechanic who disputed the manual’s recommendation to spray into the intake silencer. He believes my manual was ‘generic’ and not designed for my specific engine... even though it’s labeled as such on the cover. So, I will fill the tank and add a stabilizer and run that through the engine for a few minutes before I shut her down for the winter and spray the fogging oil into the cylinders and call it a day. Thank you for all your input!
 
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