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"Free backing" surge brakes

lakeliving

lakeliving

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So I noticed the other day I have a trailer brake leaking on my trailer. Although we are on our third season with it, it has less than 400 miles on it. I have not torn it down but it appears to be from the cylinder in the drum, probably a seal but my question is, do any of you have "free backing" drums for your surge trailer? Currently I have to get out and flip a little lever on the tongue of the trailer before backing which is a pain in the butt. I was thinking instead of replacing the cylinder I would just upgrade so I don't have to do a Chinese fire drill every time I back up at the ramp. So do these work?


Thanks,


Andy
 
Hey Andy


My trailer has a 5 wire connection. The fifth wire releases the brake with power from the reverse light. So no need to get out and release it. 


I have a Yaght Club trailer. 
 
Thanks Chris. I see there is a solenoid that can be installed inline and prevents the flow of fluid to the drums. Not sure on compatibility with my Atwood coupler. I just started looking so I'll have to study up.
 
I have a Yacht Club trailer like Chris and have the 5 wire connection but I have always disconnected the coupling from the tow vehicle before backing the trailer down the ramp. Just something I have always done. No power to the trailer avoids any shorts or problems should water come in contact with the lights or wiring........
 
It's usually not that hard to add the reverse solenoid to any trailer. They're normally standard on any disc brake trailer due to the brakes working as good in reverse as forward. They don't always install them on the drum style brakes as they don't tend to have the holding power in reverse. They do have upgrade kits to disk brakes but it may just be easier and cheaper to repair the wheel cylinder and install a solenoid valve. Depending on your tow vehicle it may or may not be wired for reverse lights.
 
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I have a 2014 Silverado with a 7 and 4 pin built in. I'm sure a 7 to 5 pin would do the trick for powering the solenoid.
 
The 7 to 5 adapter works fine for me
 
I would assume your truck would have the reverse light tied in if it has the factory plug. You can either just move to a 5 pin or if you're going to re-wire it just put on the 7way RV plug as 90% of vehicles already have it and it eliminates any adapter issues. 
 
The more I think about this though wouldn't the disengaging shoes in the drums be better than the solenoid? If you are unplugging your trailer to back up at the ramp you are killing power to the solenoid, thus reengaging the surge breaks. The work around would be to flip the manual lever when unplugging it.


I'm hoping to get a few minutes this weekend to pull the wheel and get some parts ordered. I'm sure brake fluid running down that plate will make it rust in no time.
 
lakeliving said:
The more I think about this though wouldn't the disengaging shoes in the drums be better than the solenoid? If you are unplugging your trailer to back up at the ramp you are killing power to the solenoid, thus reengaging the surge breaks. The work around would be to flip the manual lever when unplugging it.


I'm hoping to get a few minutes this weekend to pull the wheel and get some parts ordered. I'm sure brake fluid running down that plate will make it rust in no time.
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Why are you unplugging?
 
I never used to bother flipping the lever on my old trailer.  Once you start backing down grade the brakes should not apply. I used to back up a slight grade on gravel into my barn and never had a braking issue.  And yes the system worked correctly. 
 
Bill N said:
Why are you unplugging?
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Trailer lights. I do this every time before I back into the water. So hypothetically unplugging this would render the solenoid useless.
 
Most new version lights, led or incan, have a separate sealed chamber inside the outer housing.  Do what keeps ya happy.
 
The solenoid will normally come into during your normal trailing to and from the lake, your normally backing down into lake so the solenoid doesn't come into play. I do not unplug when I launch as when I stop on the level at the top of the ramp and the disk brakes engage I can't back up. Whatever works best for you is what I'd stick with!..... and yes the brake fluid will destroy anything in its path!!
 
I've seen many people unplug prior to backing into the water, but never have myself & cannot see a reason to do so.
 
Bill N said:
I've seen many people unplug prior to backing into the water, but never have myself & cannot see a reason to do so.
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Years ago, the water or water temp would often cause the lights to blow.  I think as someone stated earlier, the newer trailer lights have corrected this problem.
 
I have never unplugged the lights and never have had and issue. 


But that is just me and what I prefer to do. 
 
I always unplug and the reason I do is because I want to. 
 
I have always unplugged after I saw a gentlemen at the ramp (when we owned our 1st boat in Maryland back in the 90's) back down the ramp and the trailer lights/wiring made contact w/the water and he lost the lights on BOTH the trailer and tow vehicle........Just habit I guess.
 
Take it from a guy that had to launch every time we used our bowrider, which was several times a weekend; switch to LED lights. My 2006 trailer didn't have them so I was constantly blowing bulbs because I couldn't unplug due to my surge brakes. I went on line and found the exact size but with LED and never had a problem again. Easy peazy (sp?) fifteen minute replacement.
 
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