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Installed powered sub today

Michiman said:
One thing I did that might not have been previously mentioned is to buy four rubber "feet" at the hardware store and mount them on the bottom of the speaker. Basically, that raised the unit about a 1/4 inch thereby providing airflow between the speaker and floor, thus eliminating the potential for water or moisture damage. I also added a SS L bracket to hold it in place. Can't wait to get back on the boat this summer and jam!
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The rubber feet are a good idea. I just mounted the brackets so the sub was off of the floor a bit.
 
Renegade34 said:
Yes, you’ll still be able to splice into the speaker wires for the powered sub. If you have a swingback with the stern speakers the install is a piece of cake. A power, ground, and splice into a speaker wire for signal and call it a day!
If you add the Rockford powered sub I doubt that you’ll be looking for more bass. Lol. I like lots of bass and have my powered sub tamed down to about 1/3 gain. To each their own though!
I’d install the Rockford first and go from there.
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Thanks Renegade. I was originally looking at the non powered JL marine 10 inch box sub since the amp I already own would power it. Once I saw the Rockford and easy install I figured I would give it a try first. I was worried that hooking the powered sub up to my JL amp would cause problems.
 
So just to clarify, you want to power your speakers from the JL amp and wondering if you can then splice into the speaker wires to steal signal for the powered sub? If so, the answer is yes.
 
Renegade34 said:
So just to clarify, you want to power your speakers from the JL amp and wondering if you can then splice into the speaker wires to steal signal for the powered sub? If so, the answer is yes.
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Yes. That is exactly it. Being that the speaker that I will be tapping into would be connected to the amp I thought it might affect something.
 
Gotcha. It’s just using the signal from the speaker wire and not actually putting more power to the sub itself.
 
DanielG said:
I put in the Kicker 6.5 speakers today. WOW! What a difference!!! I'm so happy I did that. So for $380 I have 4 new speakers and a 10" sub combined to make one kick @ss stereo. I wired one of the LED wires straight to the speaker and so when I crank it and the voltage hits the speaker line I even get some LED action. Headed to the LAKE!!! Turning up some Little Big Town song "Pontoon" (as well as some Boston, Motley Crue, Areosmith and more). :cool::D
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Has anyone else connected their kicker led lights to the speaker wire so that the led lights change to the music? Would like to know the best way of hooking it up.
 
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The best way is with a light controller that is meant to do just that. It’s good because you can adjust the sensitivity.
Try googling 12v music light controller or something like that.
 
I may have missed this, but with a KMC10 and plans to mount under helmets, what option is there for power and negative (ground) without having to fish wires back to the batteries?
Thx
 
KTurturro said:
I may have missed this, but with a KMC10 and plans to mount under helmets, what option is there for power and negative (ground) without having to fish wires back to the batteries?
Thx
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Ugh, damn spell check. I meant to say under helm... thx again
 
Where and how did you guys mount the remote gain control knob? Any pictures of this would be greatly appreciated.
 
Post #164 has a photo of my gain control.
 
KTurturro said:
I may have missed this, but with a KMC10 and plans to mount under helmets, what option is there for power and negative (ground) without having to fish wires back to the batteries?
Thx
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If you you plan on mounting it under the helm you’ll have to run a power and ground from the battery. I’d recommend finding somewhere closer to the battery if possible. You also run a higher risk of rattles with the helm location.
 
Is one of the four switches on the dash not used? If so, I'd take one out, make a bracket to poke just the head of the controller out of the hole. To make it really nice I'd make a rectangle filler piece out of black plastic or plexiglass for the hole with a oval hole in it for the head of the controller to poke out of.
PS. I see you have the electric bimini top. I really wanted it, but didn't get it. How do you like it? Does it seem like it will hold up to a lot of wind and boat bouncing?
 
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PharmDGator said:
Question about this powered sub. Thinking about one under my helm. With the new G helm design, there is a good amount of space under there. I have two extra power switches I can tie into on the dash, so power is east. I can connect the speaker to the head unit directly, so that is easy. My question is on the power draw of this unit. Should I be looking at a second battery to run this set-up?
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Hi, I also have a new G series, I was wondering how it sounds under the helm? I have not taken delivery on my boat yet as it's getting some added features.
 
For the sub, you need more power than is available under the helm. You would have to run cables to the helm, that's why I put mine under the back seat, the battery is right there.
 
Baja 252 said:
PS. I see you have the electric bimini top. I really wanted it, but didn't get it. How do you like it? Does it seem like it will hold up to a lot of wind and boat bouncing?
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This wasn’t directed my way, but thought I’d chime in. We have the electric bimini and LOVE it.

Pros: We go in and out of a covered lift, so it’s a huge convenience with our docking routine. Push and hold a button to go up or down. Due to the covered lift, we literally use this option every trip, so well worth it to us. As a result of this situation, it is one of our most used features.

Undecided: Longevity and durability. I wonder sometimes if its as durable as a normal bimini when going faster. It seems less stable than its rated for when going fast. Never really had any concerns in rough water. I also read reviews that had concerns about one of the parts in the set up.

However, we’ve had no problems after 2 summer on the water with our 2017. Also, we don’t boat with it up very often. We are in Michigan, and enjoy what sun we have in the summer when under way - especially when going fast. It’s main use up is during slow cruises or when anchored, and we have no worries about it in those situations what so ever.

Cons: None yet pending long term durability.

Due to Bennington’s 10 year warranty, we decided to add it to our 2017 build. My thinking was if there are durability problems in the first 10 years (literally taking us to 2027), that’s on the warranty and Bennington. If I have issue after that, well heck, after 10 years anything can go wrong and I’m good getting it fixed myself at that point.
 
Id like to inquire about the wiring from the kmc-10 as well. I too purchased the Rockford 12" powered sub and am planning to just tap into the rear Stern speakers for sound.

I would really really like to also disconnect and re-wire the speakers in the helm, coming it was from the receiver, to be the 4 speakers in the cabin on the FRONT channel and the 2 Stern rear speakers to be on the REAR channel.

Two questions:

#1. Can that wire splicing be done? I've heard mixed opinions on where Bennington splices the FRONT / REAR speakers together from the factory .. is it right near the helm/receiver.. or is it hidden and closer to the back somewhere that I cannot access or see to do the splice myself??

#2. Suppose I am able to wire the 4 cabin speakers to the FRONT channel and the 2 Stern speakers to the REAR.. when tapping into my speakers for the Rockford 12" powered sub.. would I then have to tap into the LEFT/REAR Stern speaker and then perhaps the FRONT/RIGHT Speaker in order to ensure I have sub working with both FRONT and REAR channels??

**I feel like what I'm saying and thinking for #2 is the correct and only way if I want to not have to run the RCA cables to the helm and tap into speakers...
 
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