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Installed powered sub today

Okay, I need a bit of advise. Installed the RF P300 about 8' from my batteries and it will only turn on for about 30 seconds before shutting down again. I checked all of my connections and they look to be good. Looking through the installation instructions, it does state that the ground should not be over 30"! So, is that why my unit won't work? I had an amp on my bowrider that had a longer run than what I have now and it worked great.

Some other things to note: I was unable to find a 20 amp fuse locally that would fit my Blue Seas Safety Hub so I had to buy an in-line fuse afterall. They had 40's, 50's and higher but nothing smaller.

I also figured out that my subwoofer will only get the output coming through the left channel because in my situation, I don't have access to a right side speaker to tap into. Not too concerned because most bass is produced through the left channel so I kind of lucked out in that respect. However, because I can't move the unit closer to the battery, it might be a moot point anyway.
 
Does it turn on and off while the music is still playing? If the wire size is sufficient I wouldn't think the ground length would cause that. I'm not super familiar with that particular sub/amp but it almost sounds like the trigger is turning off.
 
Make sure the battery isn’t getting weak.
 
Do the “L” brackets from the photo in the first post come with it? Mine didn’t have them nor does the side of the sub box have a predrilled place to install them.
 
No, I just had them kicking around. Your local hardware store should have something that will work. A local stereo shop might be able to help you out as well. Usually there’s lots of that stuff laying around from other installations.
 
Devin said:
Do the “L” brackets from the photo in the first post come with it? Mine didn’t have them nor does the side of the sub box have a predrilled place to install them.
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I got some SS L brackets from HD.
 
Havasu said:
Does it turn on and off while the music is still playing? If the wire size is sufficient I wouldn't think the ground length would cause that. I'm not super familiar with that particular sub/amp but it almost sounds like the trigger is turning off.
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Randy, you are correct that the length doesn't matter for this particular unit either per a Crutchfield representative. As such, that pretty much leaves the problem with my wiring. with both appearing to be solid connections. I did have to splice in an in-line fuse which of course required using butt connectors but they seem pretty solid as well.

I have had the music playing when I insert the fuse which then turns the unit on for a few seconds before going off again. Lots of info on the web which points to grounds and shorts, but that doesn't seem to be my problem. All other electrical systems continue to work. I might have to search for someone in the area to give me a fresh set of eyes but we don't have an auto electronic installation shop around the lake.
 
Renegade34 said:
Make sure the battery isn’t getting weak.
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Thanks! My wife said the same thing but I've got two strong batteries that are three years old.
 
Make sure you have big enough cable for the power and ground.
 
basshawk84 said:
Make sure you have big enough cable for the power and ground.
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Yes, make sure you’re using at least 8 gauge wire for power and ground. Can you post a pic of the control panel on the sub? I just want to have a look at your settings.
Also, are you wiring it directly to the battery?
 
When you spliced in to the speaker wire for signal did you connect both the left and right wires to the sub? I connected the left and right + to the + on the speaker wire and both left and right - to the - on the speaker wire.
 
Also, make sure you have “input level” set to high and “auto turn on” to audio.
When it stops playing does the blue power light stay on?
 
Renegade34 said:
Also, make sure you have “input level” set to high and “auto turn on” to audio.
When it stops playing does the blue power light stay on?
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Renegade, thanks for the helpful suggestions. I am using 8 gauge wire so I think I should be okay there. I'm also using the "high" input level and audio turn on. I'm only using the left speaker for the high input level because I have no way of tapping into the right speaker given my setup. However, a guy at Crutchfield indicated that shouldn't be a problem but also stated I wouldn't get any bass that shows up on the right channel, but I can live with that.

Initially I ran the red power cable to my Blue Sea safety hub but just for kicks, I switched it directly to one of my batteries with no luck. If I take my in-line fuse out and put it back in, the blue light comes on for a few seconds and then it powers off again. So, I don't think my problem is coming from the high input level connection.

About the only other thing that comes to mind are my "gold plated" terminal ends that I bought. I paid about $6 for a pack of four so maybe they're China junk. I do have some pictures (but not of my sub control panel) that I'll try to post tonight.
 
One thing to try is temporarily run a small wire from the battery to the remote turn-on input and see if it stays on. I still think the auto trigger on the sub is acting up or not receiving enough input to tell it to stay on. I had a Bazooka amp in my 300Z years ago and it was finicky like that. Seemed to work only when it wanted to. I ended up running a dedicated trigger wire which fixed the issue.
 
Havasu said:
One thing to try is temporarily run a small wire from the battery to the remote turn-on input and see if it stays on. I still think the auto trigger on the sub is acting up or not receiving enough input to tell it to stay on. I had a Bazooka amp in my 300Z years ago and it was finicky like that. Seemed to work only when it wanted to. I ended up running a dedicated trigger wire which fixed the issue.
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Randy, thanks for the suggestion. It's certainly worth a try this coming weekend.
 
Michiman, as for the high level speaker connection for auto turn on, I also only connected it to one speaker but connected it to both left and right inputs on the sub. I’m not sure if you have to but it worked for me.
 
On the KC10 there is a audio out for the sub. I used that and the sub turns on and off with the system. doesn't pull any power while the stereo is powered off
 
RodEarl74 said:
On the KC10 there is a audio out for the sub. I used that and the sub turns on and off with the system. doesn't pull any power while the stereo is powered off
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That is definitely an option. When I first posted about this particular sub it was because it sounded awesome and was literally a 20 minute install as I have a Swingback with the stern speakers. The batteries are also back there so I just had to run a short power and ground and spliced into a near by speaker wire for signal (that signal also functions as the remote turn on) Boom, done! I didn't have to run a single wire to the head unit (which I appreciated as I have the full underskinning). If you want to run signal cables and a remote wire to the head unit then there are thousands of products that would work. The auto turn on feature (along with great reviews on sound quality) is what sold me on that particular sub. I'm sure there are other subs out there with the auto turn on feature as well but this one was consistently in the top rated powered sub lists that I came across online and is at a great price point for what you get. I couldn't be happier with mine.
 
Renegade34 said:
That is definitely an option. When I first posted about this particular sub it was because it sounded awesome and was literally a 20 minute install as I have a Swingback with the stern speakers. The batteries are also back there so I just had to run a short power and ground and spliced into a near by speaker wire for signal (that signal also functions as the remote turn on) Boom, done! I didn't have to run a single wire to the head unit (which I appreciated as I have the full underskinning). If you want to run signal cables and a remote wire to the head unit then there are thousands of products that would work. The auto turn on feature (along with great reviews on sound quality) is what sold me on that particular sub. I'm sure there are other subs out there with the auto turn on feature as well but this one was consistently in the top rated powered sub lists that I came across online and is at a great price point for what you get. I couldn't be happier with mine.
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I have the same floorplan. Installed mine under the front facing portion of the swinback. Slid the 12" all the way to the right and pinned it under the seat support. tight fit for sure but I pulled it off!

I fished the wires that lead to the head unit under the flooring and installed the bass nob at the helm. Not the easiest to do but no different than fishing through drywall!

I
 
RodEarl74 said:
I have the same floorplan. Installed mine under the front facing portion of the swinback. Slid the 12" all the way to the right and pinned it under the seat support. tight fit for sure but I pulled it off!

I fished the wires that lead to the head unit under the flooring and installed the bass nob at the helm. Not the easiest to do but no different than fishing through drywall!

I
Click to expand...

I'll likely run the cable for the bass knob to the helm as well when I pull the boat out of the water in the fall.
 
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