Mercury power steering - SOLVED

[BEERviper]

@LaurencetheAdventurer After a week long vacation and more issues including loss of power to the motor I finally figured out the issue! I hope this saves you and others a lot of stress and headaches.

In short - the boat was wired improperly and the correct electrical components were not used! We received the wrong distribution panel which included the incorrect battery switch, they left off the battery isolator, and the power steering pump was not wired to the distribution panel (wired directly to a battery). After we figured this out, it totally makes sense and I can't believe I didn't see the issue the very first time we were having issues, but than again neither did the dealer 3 times.

Our hypothesis was confirmed by Bennington that we did in fact have our boat improperly wired. Just glad we have a temporary fix in place until it can be properly corrected by the dealer.

PS Mitch over at Bennington is the man for helping us figure this out!

View attachment 30982

Sorry to revive an old thread but we have run into the same issue on our 2022 Bennington QX and the dealer has been zero help!

@scottkp thank you for creating this post! With no help of the dealer we were able to at least diagnose that the power steering going out is in fact electrical related. I spent an entire weekend pulling kids on a tube with manual steering, what a workout!

Looking at your picture, our setup appears very similar only the the power steering cables are on the opposite battery on ours.

During the demo when a dealer rep came for a ride along he mentioned to switch between batteries each day you go out so you're using a different battery to start the engine each time. When I asked if the other battery still charges when it's not switched on he said YES

On the weekend of July 8/9/10 I took the boat out with some friends to fish, I moved the battery switch to #1 and started the engine and fished for about 5 hours when the steering went out a couple hours in. When I switched over to battery #2 while out on the lake it didn't have enough power to start the engine so I had to go back to #1 for the rest of the trip.

The following weekend after finding this thread, I brought out my multimeter and found a fully charged batter and an almost completely dead battery (11.58V). I used a NOCO Genius 2A battery charger with a portable power station with AC outlets to charge the battery overnight. The next morning both batteries showed fully charged.

The remainder of the weekend I combined both batteries on the battery switch and the power steering worked just fine the entire time!!!

@scottkp, if there's any way you could relay the information that Mitch @ Bennington helped you diagnose I would be most appreciative. I have created an inquiry to Bennington and unfortunately the c/s rep I'm working with keeps directing me to the dealer and I continue to tell him the dealer is clueless .

 

[LaurencetheAdventurer]

Sorry to revive an old thread but we have run into the same issue on our 2022 Bennington QX and the dealer has been zero help!

@scottkp thank you for creating this post! With no help of the dealer we were able to at least diagnose that the power steering going out is in fact electrical related. I spent an entire weekend pulling kids on a tube with manual steering, what a workout!

Looking at your picture, our setup appears very similar only the the power steering cables are on the opposite battery on ours.

During the demo when a dealer rep came for a ride along he mentioned to switch between batteries each day you go out so you're using a different battery to start the engine each time. When I asked if the other battery still charges when it's not switched on he said YES

On the weekend of July 8/9/10 I took the boat out with some friends to fish, I moved the battery switch to #1 and started the engine and fished for about 5 hours when the steering went out a couple hours in. When I switched over to battery #2 while out on the lake it didn't have enough power to start the engine so I had to go back to #1 for the rest of the trip.

The following weekend after finding this thread, I brought out my multimeter and found a fully charged batter and an almost completely dead battery (11.58V). I used a NOCO Genius 2A battery charger with a portable power station with AC outlets to charge the battery overnight. The next morning both batteries showed fully charged.

The remainder of the weekend I combined both batteries on the battery switch and the power steering worked just fine the entire time!!!

@scottkp, if there's any way you could relay the information that Mitch @ Bennington helped you diagnose I would be most appreciative. I have created an inquiry to Bennington and unfortunately the c/s rep I'm working with keeps directing me to the dealer and I continue to tell him the dealer is clueless .

Happens all the time to me - When this happens, I switch to Battery 1+2 to charge both on long cruises. My Power Steering is wired to Battery 1, need to fix this winter.

 

[BEERviper]

Happens all the time to me - When this happens, I switch to Battery 1+2 to charge both on long cruises. My Power Steering is wired to Battery 1, need to fix this winter.

Well at least we're not the only one! I just find it absolutely ridiculous to spend this kind of money for a boat and not have a correctly functioning electrical system!

Post #19 in this thread has the video of the Blue Sea Si-ACR that would appear to resolve this issue by keeping both batteries combined by default other than starting the engine to protect the electronics. Why isn't this standard equipment on a $200k boat is beyond me!

I hope @scottkp will chime in to let us know what Bennington figured out on his setup.

 

[Potomacbassin’]

Well at least we're not the only one! I just find it absolutely ridiculous to spend this kind of money for a boat and not have a correctly functioning electrical system!

Post #19 in this thread has the video of the Blue Sea Si-ACR that would appear to resolve this issue by keeping both batteries combined by default other than starting the engine to protect the electronics. Why isn't this standard equipment on a $200k boat is beyond me!

I hope @scottkp will chime in to let us know what Bennington figured out on his setup.

The extra cost and rigging time is my guess as to why this isn't standard. As a manufacturer when you're evaluating your standard features you probably take into consideration 1) what the competition is doing and 2) how much return you get on a particular option being standard.

Given the vast majority of owners are likely fine with the 1, 2, 1+2 switch, the extra cost would only serve to make the MSRP higher. But I believe there are enormous benefits including the hassle factor that many of you are going through.

 

[scottkp]

I am going to keep this post short as I am out of town and do not have my laptop but wanted to respond as I can totally relate to your frustration. trouble shooting was all done on our own after several shots of whiskey fueled frustration to ensure another family vacation wasn’t ruined!

Looking at your set up it appears that they wired your boat to an outdated schematic (same way mine was).

For the short term fix I moved my power steering from the battery to the distribution panel which required a fuse to jump the bar in the panel - they are cheap, a couple bucks!

Long term fix - keep your power steering on the distribution panel. (Frankly nothing should be on the batteries, after all that is what the distribution panel is for. The cables you see on my batteries are an onboard charger) and have the dealer add an digital voltage sensitive relay and an updated switch. The DSVR will ensure your starter battery is protected/isolated if voltage drops when not charging (at the beach or something with the motor off and electronics running) and ensure proper charging when running.

Here is a pic of what we finally put in and have had no problems since.

Hopefully this helps! I can filter questions better when I am not limited by my mobile typing abilities!

 

[BEERviper]

The extra cost and rigging time is my guess as to why this isn't standard. As a manufacturer when you're evaluating your standard features you probably take into consideration 1) what the competition is doing and 2) how much return you get on a particular option being standard.

Given the vast majority of owners are likely fine with the 1, 2, 1+2 switch, the extra cost would only serve to make the MSRP higher. But I believe there are enormous benefits including the hassle factor that many of you are going through.

Thank you for posting that video @Potomacbassin’ , it appears the switch in that video is the one that Scottkp ended up going with and a different version of the relay.

But honestly, the difference in cost between the switch installed and the Blue Sea 5511e is only $16. Then add in the cost of the relay at $100 and a couple bucks in wires. PLEASE BENNINGTON - charge me an additional $500 on my $200k boat so the electronics side is wired correctly and I don't have to go through this frustration!!

 

[BEERviper]

I am going to keep this post short as I am out of town and do not have my laptop but wanted to respond as I can totally relate to your frustration. trouble shooting was all done on our own after several shots of whiskey fueled frustration to ensure another family vacation wasn’t ruined!

Looking at your set up it appears that they wired your boat to an outdated schematic (same way mine was).

For the short term fix I moved my power steering from the battery to the distribution panel which required a fuse to jump the bar in the panel - they are cheap, a couple bucks!

Long term fix - keep your power steering on the distribution panel. (Frankly nothing should be on the batteries, after all that is what the distribution panel is for. The cables you see on my batteries are an onboard charger) and have the dealer add an digital voltage sensitive relay and an updated switch. The DSVR will ensure your starter battery is protected/isolated if voltage drops when not charging (at the beach or something with the motor off and electronics running) and ensure proper charging when running.

Here is a pic of what we finally put in and have had no problems since.

Hopefully this helps! I can filter questions better when I am not limited by my mobile typing abilities!

View attachment 33095

Thank you so much scottkp for chiming in while you're out of town!! This makes so much more sense than the way it came wired at delivery! Power steering hard wired to battery #2 on mine which means running only on battery #1 is going to quickly drain #2 running the power steering!

I would love to follow up with you further when you are settled as I'm curious if Bennington considered this a dealer/warranty issue and maybe get the contact information for the rep you were working with at Bennington.

Thanks again!

 

[LaurencetheAdventurer]

So a follow up on this topic:
Complications with a 2 Battery Shore Charger - Blue Sea provided the following links:

• https://www.bluesea.com/support/art...lti-Program_Multi-Output_Charger_Interference
• https://www.bluesea.com/resources/503

I was about to pull the trigger on getting my Benny Re-wired and including the ACR system. However, after reading the details, it appears this does NOT work when:

1) Different battery types are being charged and thus each requires it's own charging profile (such as the use of a starter and house battery with different chemistries) or
2) Using an advanced charging system (Noco GenPro) that includes sulfation and acid stratification restoration process (an aggressive battery boiling), where the ACR system would try to share the current between the two batteries when such a need was detected.

I am waiting on a formal reply to this, but the articles noted above suggest this is accurate (at least my conclusion after several reads). I conclude this from the one line in Article 503 that states "If the charging profile is not too aggressive, no damage will occur to the battery bank". I don't like the word "IF". It goes on to say Multi-Program charges can be interfered with by the ACR system.

The solution: Found in Article 504

Install a disconnect to the ACR system (the negative ground) when connecting to shore power. Ugh, anytime the memory is required, not an ideal situation....LOL. But not a terrible issue. They then offer a relay solution. Wait, my boat already has too many electronics!!!

So, either this or simply continue the switching back and forth each day. Hmmm....the memory retriever get's no vacation! Oh right, it's boating - it's all complicated. Hope this helps - My best.

 

[BulldogsCadillac]

So a follow up on this topic:
Complications with a 2 Battery Shore Charger - Blue Sea provided the following links:

• https://www.bluesea.com/support/art...lti-Program_Multi-Output_Charger_Interference
• https://www.bluesea.com/resources/503

I was about to pull the trigger on getting my Benny Re-wired and including the ACR system. However, after reading the details, it appears this does NOT work when:

1) Different battery types are being charged and thus each requires it's own charging profile (such as the use of a starter and house battery with different chemistries) or
2) Using an advanced charging system (Noco GenPro) that includes sulfation and acid stratification restoration process (an aggressive battery boiling), where the ACR system would try to share the current between the two batteries when such a need was detected.

I am waiting on a formal reply to this, but the articles noted above suggest this is accurate (at least my conclusion after several reads). I conclude this from the one line in Article 503 that states "If the charging profile is not too aggressive, no damage will occur to the battery bank". I don't like the word "IF". It goes on to say Multi-Program charges can be interfered with by the ACR system.

The solution: Found in Article 504

Install a disconnect to the ACR system (the negative ground) when connecting to shore power. Ugh, anytime the memory is required, not an ideal situation....LOL. But not a terrible issue. They then offer a relay solution. Wait, my boat already has too many electronics!!!

So, either this or simply continue the switching back and forth each day. Hmmm....the memory retriever get's no vacation! Oh right, it's boating - it's all complicated. Hope this helps - My best.

How often are you connecting to shore power?

How many uses approximately between shore charging?

How many hours are you putting on in a season (unless you are a lucky 'all year' boater)?

How many onboard batteries do you have?

I never had any issues with batteries and the standard switch/distribution panel and I was running 4 Northstar thin plate pure lead batteries. 3 group 31's for the stereo and a group 27 as a starter/house battery. Obviously the issue is the power steering being hooked up improperly, which I am almost positive is actually a dealer installed action since boats and motors are shipped separately and final wiring is done by the dealer. So if your steering is properly connected, having the ACR is I guess 'handy', but it isn't needed.

One thing I really liked was I installed a Victron BMV-2 battery monitor so I could easily switch between the two banks (1 stereo, 1 house/starter) at any time and see their individual charge rates. I also could see current amp draw, time till empty and a bunch of other stuff on the main bank. So that way I could easily see while anchored and cranking the tunes the state of my batteries. I had a ProNautic shore charger to top them up at home, but could also combine the banks and use motor charging if I ever needed.

One thing for the dealer who commented about charging in 1+2 overcharging, not really true since when you combine the two banks they will equalize their charges. Now yes there maybe a very very small higher rate in one as it creates a waterfall effect to the other bank, but nothing that will fry your battery. The biggest purpose of the selector is to isolate the batteries in case there's a problem with one bank. If one is dead and you combine, you will drain the other. So will the ACR work to resolve that, sure, but so does a quick look at a battery monitor. Dunno, just my rambling thoughts

 

[LaurencetheAdventurer]

How often are you connecting to shore power?

How many uses approximately between shore charging?

How many hours are you putting on in a season (unless you are a lucky 'all year' boater)?

How many onboard batteries do you have?

I never had any issues with batteries and the standard switch/distribution panel and I was running 4 Northstar thin plate pure lead batteries. 3 group 31's for the stereo and a group 27 as a starter/house battery. Obviously the issue is the power steering being hooked up improperly, which I am almost positive is actually a dealer installed action since boats and motors are shipped separately and final wiring is done by the dealer. So if your steering is properly connected, having the ACR is I guess 'handy', but it isn't needed.

One thing I really liked was I installed a Victron BMV-2 battery monitor so I could easily switch between the two banks (1 stereo, 1 house/starter) at any time and see their individual charge rates. I also could see current amp draw, time till empty and a bunch of other stuff on the main bank. So that way I could easily see while anchored and cranking the tunes the state of my batteries. I had a ProNautic shore charger to top them up at home, but could also combine the banks and use motor charging if I ever needed.

One thing for the dealer who commented about charging in 1+2 overcharging, not really true since when you combine the two banks they will equalize their charges. Now yes there maybe a very very small higher rate in one as it creates a waterfall effect to the other bank, but nothing that will fry your battery. The biggest purpose of the selector is to isolate the batteries in case there's a problem with one bank. If one is dead and you combine, you will drain the other. So will the ACR work to resolve that, sure, but so does a quick look at a battery monitor. Dunno, just my rambling thoughts

Great insight, thank you. 3 Batteries for the Stereo - I like your style!! Will have to look into the Victron...

I have 2 Batteries, connect to shore power during winter storage, about 30 hours of run time a season, but probably 3x that on board using all the electronics. Primary issue with batteries is incorrect wiring - Power Steering connected to one battery - so will get that fixed will solve the issues I am having.

I know that the amount of float time = battery drain, but do try to get some run time in after. Given my boat is 6 hours from home - no tinkering time in the winter. So - the Noco GenPro Charger is able to "Restore" the batteries once each season.

Like the idea of the ACR system - makes a LOT of sense having boat auto charge BOTH batteries at every run - not needing me to switch anything - while keeping them separate for Float / Start power. But combined with the Noco - it just means I need an extra disconnect when putting it away for the winter (and then instruction to the repair center each year). But, the restoration charge of a dual bank system is a piece of the discussion I had not seen previously - and some effort to drill down into the details of ACR.

 

[BulldogsCadillac]

Great insight, thank you. 3 Batteries for the Stereo - I like your style!! Will have to look into the Victron...

I have 2 Batteries, connect to shore power during winter storage, about 30 hours of run time a season, but probably 3x that on board using all the electronics. Primary issue with batteries is incorrect wiring - Power Steering connected to one battery - so will get that fixed will solve the issues I am having.

I know that the amount of float time = battery drain, but do try to get some run time in after. Given my boat is 6 hours from home - no tinkering time in the winter. So - the Noco GenPro Charger is able to "Restore" the batteries once each season.

Like the idea of the ACR system - makes a LOT of sense having boat auto charge BOTH batteries at every run - not needing me to switch anything - while keeping them separate for Float / Start power. But combined with the Noco - it just means I need an extra disconnect when putting it away for the winter (and then instruction to the repair center each year). But, the restoration charge of a dual bank system is a piece of the discussion I had not seen previously - and some effort to drill down into the details of ACR.

Well I think the easiest and cheapest solution if you still want to add in the ACR is just install an inline fuse on the negative side of the ACR and simply remove the fuse when hooked to shore power. Doesn't require anything on the part of the repair center to do, just remove the fuse on your last time out and they will still be able to function everything as normal.

I'm assuming that the Noco is a 2 bank unit? So both batteries will be able to still utilize the repair function if needed.

As you said, once the power steering wiring is corrected, there shouldn't be any other issues. Oh, and I should state that 100% would be done by the dealer since they supply batteries, only thing would be if for some reason Bennington had a schematic included showing to hook directly to battery, which is obviously the wrong thing since we are talking about needing to fix! Only possible reason I can think was to try and reduce the current draw while hard maneuvers and hitting the locks causing not enough power to other components connectedto the distributionpanel. It's why I did my research and bought the Northstar TPPL batteries because they were the best, and kept the stereo completely separate from house.

 

[Potomacbassin’]

Also - seems like as long as you have similar-chemistry batteries the onshore charger won't be doing different things and the ACR will not create an issue. If you have different batts why not just swap out one to match the other? Added cost 1x but a lifetime of simplicity. Or maybe I'm reading the BlueSea tech docs incorrectly.

 

[LaurencetheAdventurer]

Also - seems like as long as you have similar-chemistry batteries the onshore charger won't be doing different things and the ACR will not create an issue. If you have different batts why not just swap out one to match the other? Added cost 1x but a lifetime of simplicity. Or maybe I'm reading the BlueSea tech docs incorrectly.

I could see the restoration process being done at different times depending on battery usage. If the ACR is connected, that would be an issue - so it needs a disconnect (or Relay that turns it off per Tech Support).

 

[Potomacbassin’]

I could see the restoration process being done at different times depending on battery usage. If the ACR is connected, that would be an issue - so it needs a disconnect (or Relay that turns it off per Tech Support).

Try The Hull Truth if not already. Lots of threads on this that might help, here's one:

https://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/1076755-acr-battery-charger-battery-switch-questions-revisited.html

Blue Sea is going to give you perfect advice in the event something goes wrong they aren't liable. But many boaters hook things up in many different ways and they work perfectly fine. Your situation is not unique and there are probably 3-4 different ways to overcome and make it seamless.