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New Pontoon Inspection

Shiraz

Shiraz

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Good afternoon fellow members,
Wondering what you recommend as key points to look for when doing an inspection of new pontoon at dealer? I ordered a 2026 24' M series Swing Back that I am picking up this week. Anything other than the obvious .....
  • Inspect undercarriage for dents or questionable weld?
  • Inspect fencing, furniture for defects or scratches?
  • Rigging- *Prop
  • Electronics
  • All of the options ordered are there? manuals, and safety package?
thank you!
 
Unless they have changed, the manuals are pretty much generic . The safety package is provided by your dealer as is the prop . Open the seats and helm door check the hinges are secure and open easily .
The dealer files the registration with Bennington for your warranty . If you are getting an extended warranty on your motor , I dont what brand motor you are getting but Mercury has a warranty promotion currently going on .
 
For the most part it looks like you are on top of it. I would create a check list of ALL OF THE ABOVE. The dealership may have their own as well for you to sign off on. That said, with your own checklist of the MANY details about your boat, you help insure you don’t overlook anything. Without it, it is hard to imagine you wont overlook anything because a) there is SO MUCH, b) you may be extra excited and not as thoroughly objective in the moment, and c) there is SO MUCH. ;)

Additionally:

(1) Are they on or near water and is it of the non-frozen variety? If so, water test the boat with one of their people, and operate EVERY feature. Have them show you how each feature works, and then do it.

(2) If a water test is not an option for whatever reason, then have them walk through every function above as best one can.

(3) Did you specify a specific prop for the type of performance you are after? If so, verify. If not, perhaps do so before signing off on the paperwork. Some dealerships try to anticipate usage and prop accordingly (and they may be wrong), and other times they may try to slide in a less expensive prop that does not meet your performance expectations to save money on their end (dealerships prop them, they don’t come from the factory with props).

If I think of anything else, I will add it. Others will probably have further ideas.
 
Jack M said:
Unless they have changed, the manuals are pretty much generic . The safety package is provided by your dealer as is the prop . Open the seats and helm door check the hinges are secure and open easily .
The dealer files the registration with Bennington for your warranty . If you are getting an extended warranty on your motor , I dont what brand motor you are getting but Mercury has a warranty promotion currently going on .
Click to expand...
Thank you Jack, good advise! motor is a Yamaha 200 Vmax also on promotion. Dealer stated that the promo for 2 extra years of coverage at no charge was a charge of $383. The "cost to the dealer" to participate in the "free coverage" promotion.
 
Vikingstaff said:
For the most part it looks like you are on top of it. I would create a check list of ALL OF THE ABOVE. The dealership may have their own as well for you to sign off on. That said, with your own checklist of the MANY details about your boat, you help insure you don’t overlook anything. Without it, it is hard to imagine you wont overlook anything because a) there is SO MUCH, b) you may be extra excited and not as thoroughly objective in the moment, and c) there is SO MUCH. ;)

Additionally:

(1) Are they on or near water and is it of the non-frozen variety? If so, water test the boat with one of their people, and operate EVERY feature. Have them show you how each feature works, and then do it.

(2) If a water test is not an option for whatever reason, then have them walk through every function above as best one can.

(3) Did you specify a specific prop for the type of performance you are after? If so, verify. If not, perhaps do so before signing off on the paperwork. Some dealerships try to anticipate usage and prop accordingly (and they may be wrong), and other times they may try to slide in a less expensive prop that does not meet your performance expectations to save money on their end (dealerships prop them, they don’t come from the factory with props).

If I think of anything else, I will add it. Others will probably have further ideas.
Click to expand...
Thank you Vikingstaff, all good points! This is my second Benny, I experienced many of the points you made the first time around. Was very excited (1st boat) , did the water test, wrote a check left w big smile on my face and took it to the nearest body of water!

This time around I refused the water test, but will do a thorough inspection before driving off. I did specify a prop for the Yami 200 vmax - 1st choice was a yami saltwater series 15 3/4 / 15P, second choice Quick Silver Q3 15" x 15P (both of those recommended by Ken at Prop Gods and the Service mgr at Dealer) When I get home I'm installing at ghost mount lillipad grill stand, doing a ceramic coating application to the exterior and the usual prep before taking to marina. I did not specify engine mount hole location?
Thank you!
 
Congrats on the new pontoon. I have the 150vmax and love it. I am sure the 200 is even better.

One suggestion is to bring a flashlight depending on the environment at the dealer.
My fist pontoon purchase was reviewed with me in the warehouse and I missed obvious items that I just didn’t see inside given the lighting.
When I pulled it outside and pulled off to the side lot to take some pictures, I noticed items that I couldn’t see inside the warehouse (maybe it is my eyesight at my age). For example, small rust spots on both the prop and cleats, cracked storage door, significant scratches underneath, etc.

My dealer was fantastic and everything was corrected (I purchased my second pontoon at the same place) but I just wished I would have made note before driving away.
 
This was a generic boat checklist I made years ago.

Besides the obvious of checking all hull, decking, tubes, welds, etc to be free from flaws or defects, this is what I look for.

BOAT:
*Manuals:
Boat
Trailer
Stereo / GPS / FFS (provided by manufacture)
Stereo faceplate removal keys (if equipped)
Orientation DVD (if equipped)

* 2 sets of ignition keys with safety kill switch

*Temp boat registration

* All interior compartment plugs (3rd toon / ski locker) are present

* Battery / Batteries and switch function properly

*Fire extinguisher / flares / life jackets / throwable cushion (if dealer equips with safety package)

*Table and table leg are in storage compartment

*Portable cupholders are present

*Verify the following work:
All interior / exterior / speaker lights (including Bimini lights if equipped)
Tower lights & speakers
Blower (if equipped with I/O engine)
Bilge pump cycles (if equipped)
Stereo and sound from stern remote (if equipped)
GPS / Fishfinder / Gauges at helm and rocker switches
Bimini top in the up and stowed position

*Check for overflow tube with livewell is present and make sure pump turns on (if equipped)

*Changing station folds and unfolds (if equipped)

*Ski tow pylon is present (if equipped)

*Playpen cover has all poles present

*Boarding / swim ladder deploys and stores properly

TRAILER:
*Surge brake lockout key (if equipped). Make sure brake fluid reservoir is full.

*Tongue cam pin (if equipped with swing away tongue)

*Transom Straps

* Temp Trailer Tag

* Check brakes for operation in parking lot before you leave dealer

*Verify all lights work

* Verify 50PSI in all tires (verify correct tire pressure as it will vary with trailer / tire size)
(Don't forget the spare)

*2" Ball (or appropriate size depending on trailer)

*Verify proper drop size hitch to match trailer to tow vehicle

*Correct 4 way / 5 way flat and or 7 way round trailer electrical hook up

*Make sure you have lug wrench (typical ¾”) and wheel chock / jack in case you have flat tire on way home from dealership

MOTOR:
*If you don’t get a water test, hook up to muffs to make sure motor turns over and runs

*Make sure mounting height is correct. Cavitation plate should be level with motor pod or bottom of center toon (estimate as it may need adjustments after you run the boat to see how it performs)

 
If at all possible do an in-water test. A friend discovered multiple issues during one. Examples: the trim gauge did not operate in the proper range, the top did not deploy correctly (snaps needed to be moved and a support bracket was faulty) , the motor easily over-reved (wrong prop as the motor gear ratio was not as expected), the motor is mounted one hole up and that really can't be tested until after break-in.

Worth noting that the SeaStar steering works well with low effort and the 200hp motor range of motion made for a short turning radius, but the steering wheel goes FIVE turns from lock-to-lock! That's more then some might be ready for and makes a steering knob desirable for any close-in maneuvering.
 
If engine isn't already installed I'd tell them to raise it a hole. I bought one last year off the dealership floor not rigged yet and told them to mount it one hole up. My first Benny I had them mount it two holes up. Most of the time they will put it as low as it goes which most of the time is too low.
 
Check all the battery / wiring connections - look for loose wires (though there are some that will be extra and not connected). Clarify if you want the Bilge pump direct wired (I like to turn the main power off, but leave the bilge on - as we get some major monsoons that will quickly fill the boat). Might be a good time to get the extra dock lights installed, and/or the 0/1 or at least 4awg wires for the amp upgrade if you got a stock and thinking about an upgrade. Have them verify how the Power Steering was wired - mine was to one battery in my two battery system.
 
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