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Perimeter L.E.D lighting

It is certainly possible to use 1 controller, 2 inline amplifiers and three 5 Meter RGB strips, a switch, fuse, and simple direct connections to the battery to get the job done. Or forego the controller and RGB strips in favor of a single color LED strips.

In my case I am combining many other upgrades into my project, too many to list here, but I will point out the second battery, Automatic Charging Relay and pre-wire for a future amp or powered subwoofer. I expect the relay, various switches, fuse blocks, distribution blocks and fuse panel may well make my 'fat crayon' wiring schematic look cluttered, but the soon to come installation photos should tell a different story. I'm with you, I don't like adding stuff that can malfunction and clutter things up either. But on this install I am going to adhere to ABYC wiring conventions as much as possible with respect to appropriate wire, fuse, conduit and connections - fun is fun, but saftey first.
 
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Carl, very cool controller. First controller I've seen where one can custom program the colors desired for jump and fade modes, which is a feature I would like to have. I'm of mixed mind on the WiFi / Cellphone interface. The interface allows for more user input than any other I''ve seen. On the other hand, it seems to draw quite a few watts in standby, each controller (if an install requires more than one) would have to have it's own WiFi network, and dropping and connecting to different networks seems cumbersome. I'm also not clear on the ramifications of connecting to the controller's non-data WiFi network; would this block the Cell from pulling data from the cellular data network? I suppose one would only connect to it as needed to control the leds. I might look around and see if they offer non-WiFi versions. Nice find!
 
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It was on another forum and I thought you "techie" guys would like it. B)
 
Jim it is most likely that it uses an ad-hoc network that connects directly and subsequently draws less power. I know that in my iPhone the wifi radio, LTE radio, 3G and Bluetooth all run independently so you should be fine.
 
PDX Hosedragger said:
Jim it is most likely that it uses an ad-hoc network that connects directly and subsequently draws less power. I know that in my iPhone the wifi radio, LTE radio, 3G and Bluetooth all run independently so you should be fine.
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True, but with the ad-hoc network handing an IP to the phone, I believe the phone will default all data to the ad hoc network rather than 3G/LTE data networks. I know it works this way when connected to a home WiFi network. Voice would be fine, but I think data might be misdirected.

As to the controller's draw with LEDs off, I thought I saw a number > 2 amps, but I can't find it now. No doubt broadcast of WiFi to 100 meters will use some juice. Having said that a typical install would probably have a switch before the controller anyway.
 
Can anyone actually provide and post a pic of where the perimeter LED lights are mounted on a 2013 G series pontoon, not sure the series matters though. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
PDX went and looked at a Q with perimeter lighting back in March. In a PM he posted this:

"They are stuck to the inside of the perimeter channel, facing inwards, not down!"

I know PDX took some pics, maybe he will post them here.
 
So here is how I am planning on physically installing my strip lighting. double sided 3M tape holding a continuous 1/2" X 1/2" aluminum angle, to which the strip lights are adhered. Since I will need just under two lengths per side, I am going to run in parallel, the strips starting from the center of the boat running fore and aft, then trimming the excess. This will hopefully balance the load on my amp, which has two outputs. (rather than having one 5m section and a 2.5m section)

The Q that I looked at in the showroom had the lighting on the inside of the edge trim, pointing inwards, not downwards. I'm not sure if that was a dealer install or what, but in my opinion that wouldn't look very good.
 
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Thanks for all the assistance on this.

PDX for some reason though I cannot bring up the pic above ?

I even registered with photobucket but same results.
 
I see it too.
 
I see it and when I click on the picture it brings me to photobucket where I see it as well and I do not have a photobucket account
 
Funny, I don't see a pic in the post above, but can see it in the gallery. Nice idea PDX!, I like the idea of aluminum. I was considering using 1/4 round molding to allow for shining the leds at a 45 degree angle towards the logs. I wouldn't use wood though, Home Depot has that plastic based 1/4 round molding stuff that only looks like wood. What is your source for the 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum angle?
 
Lol ... Somehow I'll figure it out. I just tried again on my iPad and laptop. I have also tried your gallery and photobucket. No success !

If others can see it then I am sure it's something on my end. Thanks PDX I will continue trying after the hockey game !
 
Floatin Stones I have to admit we are just fooling with the new deck hand, none of us can see it. :rolleyes: .
 
lmao.... feels like I just joined the Bennington Navy and back to naval school and swabing decks. :lol:

Thanks for taking me aside and sorting me out !

Please Sir, may I have access to the picture sir. :rolleyes:
 
Jim- I found the angle at Home Depot in the hardware section in 8' lengths for around $7. Fits the budget and my needs to a T. The 5050 strip LED's are .43" wide so they will fit perfectly in the 1/2" angle, with enough room to run a bead of clear silicon to protect the double stick tape from the elements and act as a second adhesive.
 
Floatin said:
Lol ... Somehow I'll figure it out. I just tried again on my iPad and laptop. I have also tried your gallery and photobucket. No success !

If others can see it then I am sure it's something on my end. Thanks PDX I will continue trying after the hockey game !
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Try this link:
 
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