Pictures of Dual Battery in Privacy Chaise

[brentah]

haha..thanks but actually it was my first go at something like that...the Bennington forum is great so with everyones help and some of my own research I devised my own plan that worked for me...I basically took bits and pieces of what other guys already tried and tested, and I made it my own.

Even though we boat on the intracoastal and st johns river primarily and echoing is not a problem, we still play our music respectfully...really just depends on where we are at and the "boat crowd" that is present....we will ask our boat neighbors if our music is okay...but most of the time there are many, many boats beached in the same area all playing music, swimming, playing games, etc so we just try to blend in.

You look like you do really good work with electronics, etc. 

If I had such a sound system on our lake, our wall to wall lake neighbors would really be upset with all the noise.

There again, all I listen to is conservative talk radio when I'm out on the lake.  They wouldn't like my taste in music, if I played it.

And since we leave our boats hanging in boathouses, expensive sound systems, propellers and lower units often disappear in the night.

 

[bcpnick]

What did you use to screw into the aluminum rails? Just regular self tapping screws or is it good to get something special for marine/aluminum use? I think I'm going to use a cutting board for my backing. Costco has huge ones right now for like $8. 

 

[brentah]

yes, I used stainless screws but drilled a small tap hole first...that aluminium is harder than what you think.  I suppose the self tapping would work

What did you use to screw into the aluminum rails? Just regular self tapping screws or is it good to get something special for marine/aluminum use? I think I'm going to use a cutting board for my backing. Costco has huge ones right now for like $8. 

 

[bcpnick]

Got all my wiring from www.genuinedealz.com.  Let me know if you want a parts lists and the length of cables I used...will be more than happy to share or answer any questions.

I would love that. I am still hesitant about whether I am going to install the add a battery kit or just the battery switch. I originally bought just the switch, thinking it would be easier to wire up and that I might feel better controlling which battery is being used and which is not and being able to switch manually, but then decided to get the kit. I still have both, I need to return one and install the other. Now I'm looking at the wiring and feeling like it looks really complicated and the switch is starting to sound better!

Did you have to put inline fuses between the ACR box and the positive contacts on both batteries?

 

[brentah]

The install instructions say to put the inline fuses but they almost have to because they don't know how long your runs will be between the ACR and the battery, how you are running, etc...I consulted with some other people and a guy who contacted blue seas directly and blue seas said that no fuse is required for a 1-2 ft run between batteries where there are not obstructions, etc that might rub through wire and cause a short - if that makes sense.

Can't remember if you have the 115 or the 150 but I know for sure you can get a secondary charging lead that plugs right into the yamaha that would eliminate your need for an ACR and simplify your wiring somewhat; however the cost is about the same...I think I posted a topic on it.

Below is my wire list...I ordered my ground and positive cables from chaise to helm about 2' too long.  The shink wrap,  terminals and butt connectors on the list were for hooking up my stereo and amps so it had nothing to do with.  With my setup, I had to cut off my positive battery terminal and crimp on a lug terminal the right size to connect to the switch.

PRODUCT NAME SKU PRICE QTY SUBTOTAL Subtotal $175.32 Shipping & Handling $0.00 Grand Total (Excl.Tax) $175.32 Tax

$0.00 Grand Total (Incl.Tax) $175.32 Heavy Duty Cable Lug Tinned Copper 4 AWG Gauge Stud Size 3/8 Inch 91727 $1.33 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $1.33 Heat Shrink Tubing Adhesive Lined 1/4 Inch Diameter 1 ft Black HS3A-025-BK $1.56 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $1.56 4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91026-HS3A-050-CL-91026-HS3A-050-WT- BC4BK $46.65 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $46.65 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        21 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Black by the foot$41.37

BC4BK       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Black Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91726-HS3A-050-CL-91726-HS3A-050-WT- BC4BK $8.17 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $8.17 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        1 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Black by the foot$1.97

BC4BK       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Black Cable Connector #1 (top) Heavy Wall Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Heavy Wall Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91026-HS3A-050-CL-91026-HS3A-050-WT- BC4RD $7.25 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $7.25 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        1 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$1.97

BC4RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91026-HS3A-050-CL-91025-HS3A-050-WT- BC4RD $44.68 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $44.68 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        20 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$39.40

BC4RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 1/4 inch bolt Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91025-HS3A-050-CL-91027-HS3A-050-WT- BC4RD $7.25 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $7.25 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        1 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$1.97

BC4RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 1/4 inch bolt Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 3/8 inch bolt (M10) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91027-HS3A-050-CL-91026-HS3A-050-WT- BC4RD $11.19 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $11.19 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        3 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$5.91

BC4RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 3/8 inch bolt (M10) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         4 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC4CCFOOT-91027-HS3A-050-CL-91027-HS3A-050-WT- BC4RD $11.19 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $11.19 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        3 x 4 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$5.91

BC4RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 3/8 inch bolt (M10) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 3/8 inch bolt (M10) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) CLEAR Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         6 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC6CCFOOT-91015-HS3A-050-RD-91016-HS3A-050-RD- BC6RD $8.72 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $8.72 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        3 x 6 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$3.72

BC6RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 1/4 inch bolt Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) RED Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 5/16 inch bolt (M8) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) RED Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         6 AWG Custom Battery Cables Marine Grade by the foot BC6CCFOOT-91015-HS3A-050-RD-91017-HS3A-050-RD- BC6RD $7.48 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $7.48 PICK WIRE BELOW then TYPE LENGTH IN FEET in Box

        2 x 6 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Red by the foot$2.48

BC6RD       Confirm Wire Color Selected Above Red Cable Connector #1 (top) Tinned Copper Lug for 1/4 inch bolt Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #1 (top) RED Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Cable Connector #2 (bottom) Tinned Copper Lug for 3/8 inch bolt (M10) Heat Shrink for Cable Connector #2 (bottom) RED Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink         12-10 AWG Heat Shrink Ring Terminal #8 Hole - 25 pack KS110-08 $10.58 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $10.58 12-10 AWG Heat Shrink Quick Disconnect Wire Terminal Female - 5 pack KS66-10-250F $3.39 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $3.39 Wire Splice Butt Connector w Adhesive Heat Shrink Terminal 12-10 AWG - 10 pack KS5-10-X $5.88 Ordered: 1
Shipped: 1 $5.88
I also added Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 100A Circuit Breaker($40) in the helm to connect the positive lead to the helm.  In the helm, I connected that same lead to a Blue Sea Systems Blue Sea 7721 Mega/AMG Safety Fuse Block ($25).  From the fuse I connected the postive to the Blue Sea Systems Blue Sea 7748 SafetyHub 150 Fuse Box ($95).  I hooked up the 2 batteries exactly like the mini-install a battery kit diagrammed.

I tried to scan and add in the diagram that I sketched out myself but it is in pretty bad shape after being rained on, sweated on, folded, tossed around, etc.  You can find it in my gallery too in my Dual Battery Album.  I am sure I left out some details so please ask because I put in some serious time and research making sure I did it best I could according to ABYC standards...I know I overdesigned it but it didnt cost me much more money to design it for 100A as opposed to 50 Amps...main reason I over designed it was because orginally I was going to move all the helm wiring to the Blue Seas SAfety hub but decided against it at the last second..instead I just terminated the helm wiring on the breaker block so I could easily disconnect the power if needed.




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I would love that. I am still hesitant about whether I am going to install the add a battery kit or just the battery switch. I originally bought just the switch, thinking it would be easier to wire up and that I might feel better controlling which battery is being used and which is not and being able to switch manually, but then decided to get the kit. I still have both, I need to return one and install the other. Now I'm looking at the wiring and feeling like it looks really complicated and the switch is starting to sound better!

Did you have to put inline fuses between the ACR box and the positive contacts on both batteries?

 

[bcpnick]

Thank you!! Very helpful!

You mentioned that it might have been overkill running the lines to the helm. If I were not to do that, can I just wire the sub amp into the existing positive and negative going to the radio, etc? 

 

[cwag911]

I think those wires are too small for an amp.

 

[brentah]

I concur...you really do want to run separate positive and negative cables directly to the amp...I think the minimum recommended was 16 AWG but I was already using 12 AWG for other stuff so that is what I used.  The stereo harness wires are either 18 or 22 AWG..pretty small..however, you will need to wire the blue/white to your amp for remote turn on...it basically turns on your amp when your turn on your stereo...amps won't power on without it.

I think those wires are too small for an amp.

Thank you!! Very helpful!

You mentioned that it might have been overkill running the lines to the helm. If I were not to do that, can I just wire the sub amp into the existing positive and negative going to the radio, etc? 

Yes, it was overkill because I could have run 8 AWG and designed it for say 50 amps instead of the 100 amps I designed it for.  My 2 amps draw a max of 25-30 amps, but I knew I would probably add underdeck LED lights and underwater LED lights eventually, plus I needed to add my LED speaker lights to the circuit.  Now those LEDS don't draw a lot of amperage; however, remember I was originally going to add the rest of the helm wiring to the same cable and looking at the elec specs from bennington that could have potentially added another 20-25 amps if everything was running at once and you had to honk the horn at night...LOL.  In the end, I decided against that since on the 22SS Bennington already had the cable run with an in-line breaker at the battery and everything on breakers in the panel...by that time I already ordered my wiring!    Like I said, I could have saved a little bit of money going with smaller wire from the chaise to the helm and a smaller safety hub than the 150 and slightly smaller breaker and fuse, but the savings would have been like $70-$80 so it was worth designing it for any future upgrades I HAVE to have..lol

Get me to Utah and put me on that lake you go boating on with the amazing views and heck...I will be happy to install everything for you

It was an expensive upgrade by the time I bought the battery, cables, kit and accessories but well worth the peace of mind...the week of the 4th we will have the boat out all week and docked in a slip I reserved...I have no worries now about running my stereo, lights, etc around the clock.

If you really want the simplest solution, if you get the charging harness from Yamaha you can connect that directly to a 2nd battery without an ACR or a switch...just connect your amp and your harness wiring to your 2nd battery and you will have 2 separate circuits.  If you put the 2nd battery in the chaise, then you would just need to run a positive and negative lead over to your helm, install a small breaker in the chaise for the positive lead, a small fuse in the helm for the positive lead and attach both the positive and negative lead to a small dual-bus safety hub like the blue seas 150 that is fused.

Let me know what else you need...I can take more pictures and am happy to help answer any questions...and please feel free to scrutinize/question what I did because I can't guarantee I met every ABYC standard but I tried my best...good luck.

 

[bcpnick]

Great information! Thank you! If only I had a teleporter you'd be out on Lake Powell doing my wiring right now!
 

I've been trying to figure out if I can do that second charging lead, but I don't think I can. I have the F90LA. Maybe I'm just not seeing it. 

Okay, time to go order some parts. I think I'm going to try to wire it all up next week. I'm sure I'll be back to pick your brain!