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Pictures of Dual Battery in Privacy Chaise

brentah

brentah

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Anyone have pictures of their dual battery setup that they installed in their privacy chaise?  My current battery on my 22SSX is in the privacy chaise and I believe I am going to add the second one there with the add-a-battery kit.

I just want to get an idea of what it looks like for someone that has done it...if you used battery boxes or trays for that matter, how did you mount them to the floor?  Thanks!
 
kinda stinks I can't go back and edit my topic...I hate spelling errors  :D
 
brentah, why can't you edit?  I post and then notice spelling error and then click edit, correct, click save changes

Just added this line after posting then editing to be sure
 
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I should have clarified...I can't edit the Title of the post.
 
Duh, never looked at your spelling mistake, guess I am the idiot :wacko:
 
Mine's not a 22SSX but you can see my dual battery installation under the port rear lounger in my gallery HERE. It is a dual battery setup with Blue Sea SI-ACR combiner (Add-A-Battery).
 
My mistake ,wrong model ,sorry 
 
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Since I am at work, I can't load any pics to this site at the moment, but if you go to the "pontoon forum" website and search for my screen name, "fiddlebick", you should be able to locate a topic and pictures of my second battery install, exactly as you described. I removed the pop up privacy curtain and frame, added a battery and charging relay setup. I like the extra room, and feel much better with another battery onboard.
 
Got my dual battery installed finally with the Blue Seas mini-add-a-battery kit .  Added a 2nd house battery(AGM) in chaise and put both in battery boxes.  Ordered all of my cables from http://www.genuinedealz.com/....great prices and fast service.

In the chaise, I used 1x8 PVC celluar board from Home Depot for my backing.  Installed 100 amp breaker on the backboard in   chaise...on the breaker is the factory installed cable that was already installed to the dash panel.  I also ran a 4 AWG cable to the helm which terminates on a 100 amp fuse block, which then connects to the Blue Seas 150 Safety  Hub - probably overkill but I wanted extra capacity for future projects.  I also ran a 4AWG ground cable to the safety hub in the helm as well.  Ran both under the deck each in their own split loom.

In the helm, I glued two 1x3 furring strips (PVC celluar board) using liquid nails.  I then attached 3 sections of 1x8 cellusar board that was remaining from what I used in the chaise.

I also installed 2 amps and a subwoofer under the helm....thanks to all here and on all the other forums for the awesome help.  Please let me know if you have any questions...I tried to following ABYC wiring standards as much as possible.  Best advice someone gave on these forums was to install the breaker for the power feeds to the helm...makes disconnecting power so easy!











 
One thing I forgot to mention was I had to change the post connector for the battery cable going to the outboard...I needed to add a lug style connector to connect to the switch...the lugs have to be heavy duty and I didnt want to buy a crimp tool for just one lug...West Marine let me borrow their tool - problem solved.
 
Awesome work! Thanks for posting this! I'm about to add the Blue Seas switch to add a second battery on my 22 SSX. And now you have me thinking about amps.... 
 
Very clean install, nice job! 
 
Nicely laid out and very neat wiring.  Great job brentah
 
Thanks guys...bcpnick...subwoofer is marine 8" bazooka passive....havent had a chance to adjust my settings and fine tune yet so I cant really say...got the install finished right as the lightning arrived...will report back this week
 
 The 8"  Marine passive Bazooka sounded really  nice once I got it tuned with the correct levels on the head unit yesterday....very satisfied...not so much bass that it rattled everything in the helm but enough that you could see the side panel next to the helm vibrate...perfect for me.  The 10" would have been a little too big for how I wanted to position it under the helm...I got it pushed all the way to the starboard side with the subwoofer facing the rear.

One problem came about.  I had  hum in my speakers when I turned the livewell pump on or when the engine was running.

Solution?  Had to ground the head unit chassis to the same bus bar I grounded the amps to on the BlueSeas Safety Hub 150.
 
I've picked up the mini add-a-battery kit and a second battery. I'm going to wire it up much like you did. Now I'm thinking I need a sub. Did you consider just going with the 250W powered 8" bazooka? It's my birthday in a couple weeks and my wife has given me the green light to just do what I want as my gift. :) I'm debating whether I need to add an amp for the speakers or if just a sub will do the trick. I'm thinking just adding the powered sub might satisfy me. The reviews on Amazon indicate the 250W sub is pretty impressive on it's own. Thoughts?
 
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bcpnick said:
I've picked up the mini add-a-battery kit and a second battery. I'm going to wire it up much like you did. Now I'm thinking I need a sub. Did you consider just going with the 250W powered 8" bazooka? It's my birthday in a couple weeks and my wife has given me the green light to just do what I want as my gift. :) I'm debating whether I need to add an amp for the speakers or if just a sub will do the trick. I'm thinking just adding the powered sub might satisfy me. The reviews on Amazon indicate the 250W sub is pretty impressive on it's own. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Haha ... my wife would NEVER give me that kind of option, I'd end up getting a sub with a new TOON WRAPPED AROUND IT !!!!!
 
I did consider the powered subwoofer just because it seemed simpler to run power and speakers to done device and be done with it; however, I decided to go the route that PDXHosedragger went withthe separate amb and passive subwoofer...I didnt want to build a sub box so I got the bazooka powered by a Pyle 400W bridgeable amp....was a little cheaper going that route but I don't think you can go wrong going with the powered sub.  I also like the idea of having separate components so I can easily replace/troubleshoot.

Here is what I got which is pretty much identical to what PDX did...figured he tested it so there was no since in reinventing the wheel and for me it was a good value for the price...I am no an audiophile so this was good enough for me

Pyle PLMRA200 400 Watt Bridgeable 2 Channel Waterproof Marine/Car Amplifier - $64

Pyle PLMRA400 400-Watt 4-Channel Waterproof Marine/Car Amplifier - $45

Bazooka MBT8014 8-Inch 4-Ohm Marine - $150

KICKER Kicker 11KM6LC 6-Inch 195W 2-Way Marine Waterproof Speakers Gray (2 Pairs) - $180 (replaced the factory speakers)

I bought a 12" section of 1x8" cellular PVC board to use as a backboard under the helm and in the privacy chaise to mount everything to.

Got all my wiring from www.genuinedealz.com.  Let me know if you want a parts lists and the length of cables I used...will be more than happy to share or answer any questions.

bcpnick said:
I've picked up the mini add-a-battery kit and a second battery. I'm going to wire it up much like you did. Now I'm thinking I need a sub. Did you consider just going with the 250W powered 8" bazooka? It's my birthday in a couple weeks and my wife has given me the green light to just do what I want as my gift. :) I'm debating whether I need to add an amp for the speakers or if just a sub will do the trick. I'm thinking just adding the powered sub might satisfy me. The reviews on Amazon indicate the 250W sub is pretty impressive on it's own. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
 
You look like you do really good work with electronics, etc. 

If I had such a sound system on our lake, our wall to wall lake neighbors would really be upset with all the noise.

There again, all I listen to is conservative talk radio when I'm out on the lake.  They wouldn't like my taste in music, if I played it.

And since we leave our boats hanging in boathouses, expensive sound systems, propellers and lower units often disappear in the night.
 
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