Pontoon refinishing

ddupont071

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Sorry if this is in the wrong spot new member. I bought a 2015 rsr2350. The boat is in great shape but the pontoons have some scuffs and a few scratches. What is the best way to refinish the pontoons. I would like the brushed finish not a polished finish. Can boat retailers do this type of finish or any diy kits? Thanks in Advance
 
One option is to install Vantage Pontoon wrap on the toons. While they don’t cover the entire toon, most above the water line will be impacted. I have it installed on my last two new pontoons, but my understanding is they can be installed on used pontoons. I watched the install at the dealer and it looked above my level of expertise and tools.
Other options include various rub rails for pontoons which look more DIY friendly in my opinion.
Example:
 
What is the best way to refinish the pontoons. I would like the brushed finish not a polished finish. Can boat retailers do this type of finish or any diy kits? Thanks in Advance
The best way to refinish pontoons is with two different acids. Most dealers will not have the skill to do this. One acid cleans off organic matter. The final wash uses a acid that turns the aluminum a consistent shade of grey (not white). That is very hard to do. Manufactures that use acid in order to make their hulls look perfect have tooling and process that dealers cannot afford to have. Most dealers that use acid to whiten the tubes will just whiten until the tube is a cheap looking bright white. A brushed finish is better than bright white in my opinion. You are wise to chose that finish. Brush the tubes with steel wool. Use long straight strokes. Practice on the inside of the tubes.
 
...Most dealers that use acid to whiten the tubes will just whiten until the tube is a cheap looking bright white. A brushed finish is better than bright white in my opinion.
I have acid washed my toons annually as part of my end of season maintenance for over 20 years. (My boat sits at my dock all season and accumulates organic growth.) Yes, the acid turns them a chalky white...temporarily. They always turn back to "normal" gray after just a few short weeks.
 
Sorry if this is in the wrong spot new member. I bought a 2015 rsr2350. The boat is in great shape but the pontoons have some scuffs and a few scratches. What is the best way to refinish the pontoons. I would like the brushed finish not a polished finish. Can boat retailers do this type of finish or any diy kits? Thanks in Advance
Acid washing is ONE WAY to finish a pontoon and there are others. Most owners don't or won't go through other various methods of finishing or "refinishing" a toon simply because it's waaaaaay too much work and owners would rather play than work and, I don't blame them.. When we purchased our new-to-us 2014 Bennington 25RCL with the Yamaha F-350 5.3L 350HP, the boat was 5 years old and had a whopping 24 hours on it. And, it had been kept in an RV garage 24/7/365 unless it had been taken out to be used. Then put back when done using it. The toons were in *OK* shape when we bought the boat, stained, but ok. I wanted something nicer. I've been dealing and polishing aluminum since before I was born and had dealt with various acids to condition aluminum too.

What the acid does to aluminum is just like almost any acid affect on various surfaces, it EATS it to some degree. In the case of a pontoon, and with the use of any of the acids formulated for boat aluminum use, you're still eating at the surface but to a very mild degree. The end result is basically *RAW* aluminum that is unprotected. For the most part, open or raw aluminum in a very large percentage of the fresh water lakes across the country, is not a big deal. But for us here in Lake Havasu AZ, where the natural chemicals/irons/magnesium's/coppers and all that are much higher due to desert run-off, raw aluminum pontoons don't stand a chance and get contaminated very, very easily and they look UGLY after even a short time in the water. But for you folks in the midwest and back east lakes where your heavier metals in the water are waaaaay less, your acid applied toons would or should endure a decent look for quite a while, almost even if your boat stays in the water on a constant basis.

Painting or Wrapping a toon, is not cheap! Both are a good remedy to stave off any form corrosion/stains etc. But both are also subject to physical damage like banging up against docs, other boats etc. Polishing, is without a doubt, the hardest result to accomplish. I know, ours have been ultra high polished for several years now and it's one serious pain in the A$$ to keep them that way. Especially due to as stated, all the higher concentration of chemicals in our lake water. It is what it is.

There's also a finish called "Grain sanding". That's also a pain in the a$$. But, when you see elevator doors, stainless refrigerators and household appliances made of Stainless steel, you see a GRAIN in the finish pattern. That's all done by machinery and without a doubt, looks very, very nice. It can be done to a toon too. Quite often, when aluminum rolls or sheets are delivered to an establishment like Bennington, the "grain" finish is already on the aluminum. In one of the pics below, you see the grain pattern in the end of the pontoon. The level of hardness or "grade" of the aluminum has an affect on how long it holds a pattern or polish. Most of the aluminum used in the making of pontoons is of the 5000 series, specifically 5052. That's a medium hardness in general terms. it's ability to hold a finish is good, but not great.

Anyway, enough blabbing for now. Below are the results of us using the *Starbrite* brand of Marine aluminum refinish/restorer acid, purchased at Walmart. Then, there's a pic or two of them polished with the use of some ultra serious labor!
Scott
 

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Thanks you for the input. I would like the grain sanding look that you are taking about. Do you know if that is achievable out of a factory setting?
 
The "grain" finish as stated earlier, is mostly done by machine at the factory prior to delivery to whatever kind of facility that uses it, like Bennington. To put anywhere near that same finish is without a doubt, one pain in the butt after the aluminum has been handled, formed, bent, welded, and more. You'd have to create a bendable template that would incorporate a thin piece of foam as a backing for your media to be up against. Then, you'd need a handle to be able to handle this item as you would basically walk down the length of the pontoon and hold this "tool" in place to achieve as straight of a grain as possible for the full length of the pontoon. Then, go back to where you started and move down one width of the tool and overlap what you just did by a given amount and do it all again.

While this method would work to provide a finish of some resemblance of a factory grain finish, it would by far, not be anywhere near as smooth, straight and uniform. I've done this type of finish many times on smaller aluminum projects and it's turned out somewhat decent. But on something as large as a pontoon, with all the weld seams and other components in the way, that would be a tough job.

And, if one did go through all the effort to create such a nice finish, you're STILL gonna get tarnishing, scum and other deposits on them as you use the boat. And if you acquire any form of damage, even very slight bumps, it's real tough to get those out without re-surfacing the entire side of that toon.

By and large, if I had to guess, I'd guess that a very, very large percentage of pontoon owners, way more than the majority, do absolutely NOTHING to their toons because, IT'S A LOSING BATTLE! Whatever type of finish, like our mirror finish, has to be done on a regular basis to keep the appearance as desired. And not many are willing to do that.
Scott
 
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