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Price Of Bimini Electric Top w/Blue LED Lighting

Top is installed except for the canvass and finish under console wiring. They recommend one self-driller at the four joints that have a tight fit which are the two long arms. The short arm is much thinner and the bow that goes in it is the same size as the ones that go in the thicker long arms. Makes for a very sloppy fit and they suggest two drillers to help hold it. I drilled and tapped 10-32 s.s. screws at each joint (four at each joint) for a much stronger fit. The sloppy fit was eliminated by sliding in two pieces of 1/8" X 1" aluminum flat stock in each joint which really tightened it up.That was a 1/4" of total slop.As Geewest said, the rails are easy to fish wire into.

I guess I cheated some since I'm a master electrician. Where I brought the mooring light wire up I installed a piece of 3/8" o.d. stainless steel flex in the rail and drilled a hole to match in the top arm and ran it in there. You never see wire with the top up or down. The flex was added at the light also, this is a little over-simplified because it takes a lot of time to do it right. Next one would be much quicker. Expecting alot of rain this week so I waited on the canvass part so the pollen will wash away some. I'm terrible at posting pics but I'll give it a shot tommorrow night. Grant, if you have time maybe you could pm me a tutorial on this! Questions? Be glad to answer.

They ,pontoonstuff.com, have already shipped the missing H brackets. Steve
 
Sounds like a great install. How about some pics when your done?

Thanks

Todd
 
CcanDo said:
Gerry, Thanks !!
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Hey CC ! My RCW came in yesterday and as soon as they took the wrap off I took a couple of quick pics. Had not seen the control for the power bimini and was interested to note the location. Note what the switch says. I remember you asking the question of limit. Interesting, but perfect location and labeling for it. Gerry
 
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gerry, I'd like to address the "limit" issue discussed previously. Pwr-Arm does not want you to run it until the breaker trips. They say it doesn't hurt it but they do not recommend it on a regular basis.

When they were working with me on my too high in the front problem they had me run it until it tripped. It fixed most of the aesthetics but the top was like a bow string. This is what led me to cut .080 off the rear strut, which is what stops the forward motion. Running it until it trips will bow the rear strut. After my fix I tried to run it until it tripped, just to see. I had wired in a 15 amp fuse ahead of the breaker. The fuse blew before the breaker tripped. I will run it until the top is tight and then stop. Ready to haul it to the condo and try it out. Steve
 
lakebum said:
gerry, I'd like to address the "limit" issue discussed previously. Pwr-Arm does not want you to run it until the breaker trips. They say it doesn't hurt it but they do not recommend it on a regular basis.

When they were working with me on my too high in the front problem they had me run it until it tripped. It fixed most of the aesthetics but the top was like a bow string. This is what led me to cut .080 off the rear strut, which is what stops the forward motion. Running it until it trips will bow the rear strut. After my fix I tried to run it until it tripped, just to see. I had wired in a 15 amp fuse ahead of the breaker. The fuse blew before the breaker tripped. I will run it until the top is tight and then stop. Ready to haul it to the condo and try it out. Steve
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Absolutely Steve. I agree. I was just addressing CC's question of limits on the previous page. That 15 sec. autoreset label on the control just interested me. Steve at Schwintek told me it required a 6 amp draw to trip the limit. Can't wait until this weekend to try it out when the dealer has my boat rigged. Heres hoping our days of climbing over furniture to raise and lower the bimini are over. Let me know how it worked out. Thanks Gerry
 
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Gerry, one more thing, if you think about it, try to check your top for level. Would like to know if mine was just a fluke. Thanks, Steve
 
LakeOconeeGuy said:
I'm looking to buy a 2012 2575RCW and definitely plan on getting the power Bimini top. I picked up some information from my local dealer including a spec sheet with all of the options available. In every case his prices match the Bennington website within a couple of dollars EXCEPT for the Electric Bimini top. Here's a few examples of the options I'm considering:

Aft Teak Flooring - Bennington Web Site Build $1,488

Aft Teak Flooring - My Dealer's Price Sheet $1,490

Elevated Helm - Bennington Web Site Build $561

Elevated Helm - My Dealer's Price Sheet $560

Bow Gate Seat - Bennington Web Site Build $563

Bow Gate Seat - My Dealer's Price Sheet $570

All relatively comparable and within just a few dollars difference (before any negotiations!) But the option for the power Bimini top is WAY off. One of them has to be wrong! Anyone from Team Bennington able to clarify?

Bimini Electric Top w/Blue Ice LED Lighting - Bennington Web Site Build $2,014

Bimini Electric Top w/Blue Ice LED Lighting - My Dealer's Price Sheet $4,030

Just wanted to get some expert advice before I go back to the dealer and ask this question myself. Thanks for your help.
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I know the hydraulic top was around $4k from Bennington and the new electric top should be around $2k from Bennington

Ron
 
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Thanks RPM - after talking to my Bennington dealer he confirmed that the electric top was around $2k. My new RCW 2575 I/O is due in by the end of April!
 
LakeOconeeGuy said:
Thanks RPM - after talking to my Bennington dealer he confirmed that the electric top was around $2k. My new RCW 2575 I/O is due in by the end of April!
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good, I am glad they got it sorted out for you at the correct price

Ron
 
Power-Top.com has the Schwintek power tops for $900 and key fob remote for $90. They have great videos on their site of features, installation, and a demo of a Bennington lowering the power top as it goes under a bridge. I put one on my Bennington and LOVE it.

BTW...the Schwintek is the same power top as most pontoon manufacturers use, including Bennington. Only real difference is the canvas.
 
If you buy after-market, directly from another source, that's fine. However, Bennington reinforces the side rails to accommodate the extra weight of the top components when a Power Top is ordered from the factory. DIY aftermarket tops need some type of reinforcement at the rails! TB
 
Team Bennington said:
If you buy after-market, directly from another source, that's fine. However, Bennington reinforces the side rails to accommodate the extra weight of the top components when a Power Top is ordered from the factory. DIY aftermarket tops need some type of reinforcement at the rails! TB
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Thank you for the heads-up
 
I concur with TB. The $2,000.00 is the list price, so don't compare that too closely with the $900.00 UNINSTALLED nonfactory price from aftermarket . If you get the price on the boat settled with several options, I believe the dealer can discount the $2,000 list very nicely. I ordered the factory install and with the obvious Bennington factory reinforcement and very neat control to the right of the console, (see my gallery) the factory install seems a much better way to go IMHO P.S. Another plus is the factory bimini comes with the LEDs. My dealer creditied that $222 off the LED Blue Ice option. Gerry.
 
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Let me start by saying that if i were buying a new boat i would purchase the optional top from Bennington. With that said, there are a lot of us out here that already have a boat and would like a power top. Call Bennington and ask what they charge for the top. I did and is was over $3,000 for the parts (they didn't offer as a kit).

The Bennington power top is made by Schwintek. The power top on Power-Top.com and Pontoonstuff.com are also made by Schwintek. Skeleton is the same. My definition of "aftermarke"t is a product that is inferior and that is not the case in this situation.

As for Blue Ice, you are correct, the "aftermarket" Schwintek tops do not have that feature. In fact, NONE of the SchwIntek tops come with Blue Ice. It is something that Bennington added to their Schwintek install. I saw Blue Ice on a Bennington at the National Capital Area boat show in Virginia and thought is was slightly tacky IMHO. I really don't care if my top and cup holders light up. I'm more concerned about leaving the helm, climbing over passengers and gear in order to raise and lower my top.

As for reinforcement...it never hurts, however, I've been running my "aftermarket" for four months now (windy days, calm days, storms) and have not had any issues. Top and rails are still solid as a rock.

As for option pricing, I've never seen a dealer discount each individual option. Instead, the ones I've dealt with total up all options and then discount the whole boat package. If you purchase a $60,000 boat with the power top option and they discount boat to $58,000, I guess you could interpret that as getting the top for free. I wouldn't...but I guess you could.

IMHO, I saved $1,100 ($2,100 o you use the parts price) AND still have my original manual top (stored in my garage) as a backup. Of course it did take a couple of hours to put on with a friends help. Well worth the 6 pack I paid for labor.
 
Sounds like I touched a nerve here. You are absolutely correct that there is only one way to go on an already purchased boat. My definition of "aftermarket" is not necessarily the same. Someone generally has to produce the product for the factory to install. I was just referring to the Bennington list price on a new boat versus buying later and installing it yourself. Sixpack sounds reasonable, if consumed after the install and not prior. (No insult intended for ability to consume alcohol.)

Yes I know the Bennington top is a Schwintek, I have had several conversations with Mike the owner there. He and Bennington answered my many questions. Mike said he has had several test runs over 50 MPH. I am not disparaging your "aftermarket" top.

I agree, the power bimini for me at least is terriffic. I never looked forward to climbing over the furniture and pinching fingers. Always seemed to though in my old Bennington. If I had had the RCW before maybe it would not have been. Besides my passengers either moved out of the way or helped. The Blue Ice accessories are personal preference, don't like them, don't order them. IMHO

As for option pricing, my dealer did, after the basic boat and a major option was ordered, added any extra options at his cost, (not really sure what his cost was, but I was satisfied with the substantial discount.) I knew what the price was by then, like not talking a tradein until the deal is done. I never said the top was free. He said he had what he needed to make off the boat and options were at cost. Six of one, half dozen of another. IMHO. Gerry
 
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AMW said:
Let me start by saying that if i were buying a new boat i would purchase the optional top from Bennington. With that said, there are a lot of us out here that already have a boat and would like a power top. Call Bennington and ask what they charge for the top. I did and is was over $3,000 for the parts (they didn't offer as a kit).

The Bennington power top is made by Schwintek. The power top on Power-Top.com and Pontoonstuff.com are also made by Schwintek. Skeleton is the same. My definition of "aftermarke"t is a product that is inferior and that is not the case in this situation.

As for Blue Ice, you are correct, the "aftermarket" Schwintek tops do not have that feature. In fact, NONE of the SchwIntek tops come with Blue Ice. It is something that Bennington added to their Schwintek install. I saw Blue Ice on a Bennington at the National Capital Area boat show in Virginia and thought is was slightly tacky IMHO. I really don't care if my top and cup holders light up. I'm more concerned about leaving the helm, climbing over passengers and gear in order to raise and lower my top.

As for reinforcement...it never hurts, however, I've been running my "aftermarket" for four months now (windy days, calm days, storms) and have not had any issues. Top and rails are still solid as a rock.

As for option pricing, I've never seen a dealer discount each individual option. Instead, the ones I've dealt with total up all options and then discount the whole boat package. If you purchase a $60,000 boat with the power top option and they discount boat to $58,000, I guess you could interpret that as getting the top for free. I wouldn't...but I guess you could.

IMHO, I saved $1,100 ($2,100 o you use the parts price) AND still have my original manual top (stored in my garage) as a backup. Of course it did take a couple of hours to put on with a friends help. Well worth the 6 pack I paid for labor.
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Your definition would be wrong, not to sound rude, but to me, "aftermarket" means just that, After Market. You can purchase After Market speakers that are far superior to your stock ones. I would be interested in knowing or seeing pics of how Bennington beefs up the railings to support it. I guess even though you haven't had any problems yet, keep in mind that Bennington builds these boats to last a long time and thought that was the best way to go. Who knows, even though I only got my boat a little over a month ago, maybe I need to upgrade something already! I never actually thought that much about the power bimini, but maybe it would be nice to have. My dealer also gave me a price on the boat and options I originally picked, then as I started to 'add' options, he gave me cost as well, or at least what I thought was a very fair deal on them anyway. As a question, can your old top still go on? I haven't seen one installed, so didnt know if it made a mess of the rail. For now I guess i'll just stick with my poor boy bimini top. haha

Derrick
 
I installed my power top and I am not going to step on toes on the forum but it was worth it to me. Geewest posted some pictures somewhere for me if you want to see. Steve
 
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