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Prop Testing New Boat

HossAL

HossAL

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Lake Guntersville
I have a 24LXSB with VF200 on order. The dealer has told me they do prop sizing prior to delivery. I asked them if that should be done, given everything I've read says no WOT until after the initial 2 hours of break-in. The salesman said don't worry about it - but I'm worried about it. Should I insist they let me put the first 2 hours on it before doing the prop testing?
 
Dealer should follow the Yam break-in procedures, failure to do so introduces an extra element of BS you don’t want in your life. If they are unwilling to follow the OEM spec and not try to make you happy then I think that’s a bit of a red flag. The check ride alone should easily chew up much of those hours.

On the flip side, some Yamaha’s are known to “make oil” because the rings are not seated well enough during break-in which allows fuel to flow past the rings and get into your oil. Not catastrophic but not good either. Some believe you should disregard the OEM break-in and just run the piss out of them which ensures proper seating of the rings. Sounds like the prop testing would help accomplish that.

But if it was my new $15k motor I would want it done by the book.
 
I was assuming the "make oil" issue was being caused by NOT following the break-in procedure. Also thought I had read that problem wasn't really an issue any longer.
 
HossAL said:
I have a 24LXSB with VF200 on order. The dealer has told me they do prop sizing prior to delivery. I asked them if that should be done, given everything I've read says no WOT until after the initial 2 hours of break-in. The salesman said don't worry about it - but I'm worried about it. Should I insist they let me put the first 2 hours on it before doing the prop testing?
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Don't know about your motor, but many have pretty good data logging. IF a problem later develops, an abusive "break in" period might be an issue. Also, a number of high-tech engines (marine and other) have shown early oil-burn or make-oil issues of over the years. Those generally get fixed by tweaks to the piston rings and fuel injection system. Any such problems may be ancient history for your model....
 
Actually there are differing accounts on the reasons why - many follow the proper break-in but still make oil. The most credible explanation that I’ve seen is that many of these OB’s spend the vast majority of their hours at troll speed, which doesn’t generate the heat needed to get the rings fully expanded and you get a little blow by.

And I’m still seeing newer motor complaints over at THT. It’s a headache reading all the posts - equal parts informative but also a lot of uninformed nonsense. Almost like watching the nightly news.

That’s why I like your approach of insisting on the proper break-in, who knows what the future holds so protect your warranty as best you can. Recreational boat ownership isn’t worth it if it causes more stress in your life than it cures!
 
HossAL said:
I have a 24LXSB with VF200 on order. The dealer has told me they do prop sizing prior to delivery. I asked them if that should be done, given everything I've read says no WOT until after the initial 2 hours of break-in. The salesman said don't worry about it - but I'm worried about it. Should I insist they let me put the first 2 hours on it before doing the prop testing?
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I think most of us that had the 200 SHO had the Yamaha Saltwater series II with pleased performance. If you are worried, tell them that's what you want and after your break in if you aren't happy, see what else they recommend and worst case scenario you have a nice spare prop. Or sell it , very common and re-sellable.
 
BulldogsCadillac said:
I think most of us that had the 200 SHO had the Yamaha Saltwater series II with pleased performance. If you are worried, tell them that's what you want and after your break in if you aren't happy, see what else they recommend and worst case scenario you have a nice spare prop. Or sell it , very common and re-sellable.
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+1 on Derricks advice here!
 
"On the flip side, some Yamaha’s are known to “make oil” because the rings are not seated well enough during break-in which allows fuel to flow past the rings and get into your oil. Not catastrophic but not good either. "

Wow! There's some pretty wild stuff even here! First, it would be useful for any new buyer to actually read the recommended break-in procedure. It does include varied RPM/load (not hours of trolling). Also, some motors are electronically limited for a certain period (sometimes in more than one stage). For those, it's not possible to get a good idea of performance until after the restrictions are expired. And for sure, it's never good to have raw fuel in the cylinder(s) as it will wash down the cylinder wall(s) and rings causing accelerated wear and diluted the oil (the supposed make oil situation). A fix for that problem is normally somewhere in the injection system.

IMHO, don't confuse a sweet ride with how racers treat their toys. You have a fine engine, but it's not blueprinted. Follow the correct break-in procedure. It might be just me, but I'd delay any serious performance testing until after the first oil/filter change. Meanwhile with 200 HP, (as mentioned above) you won't beat a Yamie Saltwater II by much...it's just a matter of what pitch. If you like aluminum, the right pitch Turning Point Hustler (4-blade) should work too.
 
Just a thought......Wouldn't it be ok to at least "floor throttle" for an occasional 10 second burst after some initial time on brand new engine and back off before you reach high rpms like above 4500? Seems like a little of this would seat rings well. I had a friend that bought a brand new 1982 Chev S10 pickup and drove it super hard from the second it left dealer lot. It was fast its whole life and never had any issues with oil consumption etc. Drove it always "like he stole it". Of course, he was young and new everything at the time.
 
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