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I just spoke with Clint at Shark Hide and he said don’t do anything to the boat until he sees the pictures of the toons. He said “don’t acid wash it whatever you do“! He definitely raised his voice on that comment. He also said to keep it out of the water….Ugg.
so I emailed him the pictures but his internet is down so he will contact me tomorrow. Thanks guys for the heads up I appreciate it. Also Clint wanted me to thank everyone for the recommendation of him/company. He was extremely polite on the phone. Someone else recommended I call Clint in a prev thread but I couldn’t find who it was. So thank you also!
 
Glad you connected with him. As you saw, the Acid Wash idea raised a fair amount of concern from some of us that have seen or had it go sideways, let alone for your sharkhide situation.

Keep us posted on what he says after he reviews your pictures. I’m very curious what his thoughts are on the matter.
 
Vikingstaff speaks the truth! Actually, my boat was next to one being acid washed and I got over sprayed, which discolored my toon, skirting, flooring and fencing.

They wouldn’t do anything about the skirt, floor and fence, but they tried to acid wash my toons to even up the overspray, but it didn’t work. In the end, they put Vanguard toon covers on for free to cover up the damage.

Lastly, I don’t know if this is true or not, but they also told me not all aluminum takes acid wash the same. Apparently mine is one that doesn’t, resulting in a very uneven appearance.
 
Michiman said:
Vikingstaff speaks the truth! Actually, my boat was next to one being acid washed and I got over sprayed, which discolored my toon, skirting, flooring and fencing.

They wouldn’t do anything about the skirt, floor and fence, but they tried to acid wash my toons to even up the overspray, but it didn’t work. In the end, they put Vanguard toon covers on for free to cover up the damage.

Lastly, I don’t know if this is true or not, but they also told me not all aluminum takes acid wash the same. Apparently mine is one that doesn’t, resulting in a very uneven appearance.
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I was just thinking about Vanguard. I wonder if that might be the easiest solution. After reading about your fiasco…makes me nervous. I’ll let you know what Clint says.
 
I had our old Bennington acid washed several times over the 13 years we had it and had Sharkhide applied after each one. The marina that performed the service was pretty diligent in preparation. They raised the boat by the deck which gave them full access to all 3 toons from underneath. They covered up and taped off areas that was not to be acid washed. They did a complete and thorough job with great results! So you can safely have your toons acid washed if they prepare your boat properly!
 
BigKahuna said:
I had our old Bennington acid washed several times over the 13 years we had it and had Sharkhide applied after each one. The marina that performed the service was pretty diligent in preparation. They raised the boat by the deck which gave them full access to all 3 toons from underneath. They covered up and taped off areas that was not to be acid washed. They did a complete and thorough job with great results! So you can safely have your toons acid washed if they prepare your boat properly!
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Ours was done by some kid with a pump sprayer. No prep work at all.
 
BK brings up a good point compared to what Michiman went through. IF you ever decide to acid wash it, a thorough discussion about prep and execution, and perhaps even the option of coordinating on site to make sure it’s done properly, would be good to talk about. Otherwise, I simply wouldn’t risk it.

The Vanguard system seems great. I‘d like to add it for 3 reasons: 1) damage along starboard side from pontoon that scrapped along it after breaking free from a negligent VRBO renter in the cottage next door :mad:, 2) provides a bit of bump and bank bummer vs direct contact with pontoon aluminum, and 3) I really think the color options when coordinated with the pontoon fencing look really cool.

Reason I haven’t: I keep spending my money elsewhere regardless of my wife’s shrewd advise :oops:
 
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Vikingstaff said:
BK brings up a good point compared to what Michiman went through. IF you ever decide to acid wash it, a thoroughly discussion about prep and execution, and perhaps even the option of coordinating on site to make sure it’s done properly, would be good to talk about. Otherwise, I simply wouldn’t risk it.

The Vanguard system seems great. I‘d like to add it for 3 reasons: 1) damage along starboard side from pontoon that scrapped along it after breaking free from a negligent VRBO renter in the cottage next door :mad:, 2) provides a bit of bump and bank bummer vs direct contact with pontoon aluminum, and 3) I really think the color options when coordinated with the pontoon fencing look really cool.

Reason I haven’t: I keep spending my money elsewhere regardless of my wife’s shrewd advise :oops:
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1698946529291.png That was for your last sentence .
 
Vikingstaff said:
The Vanguard system seems great. I‘d like to add it for 3 reasons: 1) damage along starboard side from pontoon that scrapped along it after breaking free from a negligent VRBO renter in the cottage next door :mad:,
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You shared that joyous experience with us if I remember correctly?
 
I spoke to Clint last night for about 45 minutes. He called me after looking at the pictures of the toons. He said there was NO shark hide application on them. That really surprised me but probably the best outcome considering.
He told me there were 3 different applications of shark hide depending on the appearance you’re looking for. 1) the easiest which gives an off white color 2) has a mirror finish which is a “filthy job” and a 4 step process and the 3) is a hand rubbed finish and produces a muted silver which is what I’m looking for because of the color of the boat (metallic charcoal).
He said the most important process is the prep work of taping and covering the boat. (He told me several horror stories of people/dealers just spraying away even on windy days). He said to make sure they have prepped the boat properly before they start (just like Viking mentioned). For the hand rubbed finish he said it was time consuming. First you prep the boat. Second you apply the Aluminum cleaner, as directed on his website, which is acid based. He said you always work horizontally. (the reason he said not to acid wash above, in my previous post, was because he wanted to see the pictures first). Thirdly you will use 3 different grained abrasive pads from course to fine. This will reduce the whiteness of the pontoons to a muted silver. Again, always working horizontally. And finally, after you have come to the color you are wanting, you apply 2 coats of shark hide. He said this process is time consuming to do it correctly on a 3 toons especially if one person is doing it. (He also said I could drive it because the salt water damage was already done).
So I called my dealer and gave him Clint’s information and told him to contact him. (This guy is starting to p me off because I feel he should be doing all this work not me). So I will call him back to see what his plans are of getting this taken care of. In the meantime, I will call around and see if anyone knows how to apply this. Also, there is a boat show in Fort Myers this weekend so maybe I can find a detailing company that would know how to do this.
Clint told me to tell everyone hello and if you need help with your toons, don’t hesitate to call him.
 
Julianna said:
I spoke to Clint last night for about 45 minutes. He called me after looking at the pictures of the toons. He said there was NO shark hide application on them. That really surprised me but probably the best outcome considering.
He told me there were 3 different applications of shark hide depending on the appearance you’re looking for. 1) the easiest which gives an off white color 2) has a mirror finish which is a “filthy job” and a 4 step process and the 3) is a hand rubbed finish and produces a muted silver which is what I’m looking for because of the color of the boat (metallic charcoal).
He said the most important process is the prep work of taping and covering the boat. (He told me several horror stories of people/dealers just spraying away even on windy days). He said to make sure they have prepped the boat properly before they start (just like Viking mentioned). For the hand rubbed finish he said it was time consuming. First you prep the boat. Second you apply the Aluminum cleaner, as directed on his website, which is acid based. He said you always work horizontally. (the reason he said not to acid wash above, in my previous post, was because he wanted to see the pictures first). Thirdly you will use 3 different grained abrasive pads from course to fine. This will reduce the whiteness of the pontoons to a muted silver. Again, always working horizontally. And finally, after you have come to the color you are wanting, you apply 2 coats of shark hide. He said this process is time consuming to do it correctly on a 3 toons especially if one person is doing it. (He also said I could drive it because the salt water damage was already done).
So I called my dealer and gave him Clint’s information and told him to contact him. (This guy is starting to p me off because I feel he should be doing all this work not me). So I will call him back to see what his plans are of getting this taken care of. In the meantime, I will call around and see if anyone knows how to apply this. Also, there is a boat show in Fort Myers this weekend so maybe I can find a detailing company that would know how to do this.
Clint told me to tell everyone hello and if you need help with your toons, don’t hesitate to call him.
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Yup Clint is a great guy I've had good conversations with. I have applied Sharkhide on my old Bennington. The only thing you need is a lint free diaper to apply. Yes you need to apply at least 2 coats. The reason? The 2nd coat is to make sure you didn't miss any surface after the 1st coat. I've applied 3 coats on the outside of the outer toons and on the back around the ladder and where the motor is mounted. When we bought our current boat Sharkhide wasn't applied at the factory. I purchased a can of Sharkhide and the service department applied it for me! Maybe I missed it but was Sharkhide supposed to be applied at the factory when you ordered/bought your boat?
 
BigKahuna said:
Yup Clint is a great guy I've had good conversations with. I have applied Sharkhide on my old Bennington. The only thing you need is a lint free diaper to apply. Yes you need to apply at least 2 coats. The reason? The 2nd coat is to make sure you didn't miss any surface after the 1st coat. I've applied 3 coats on the outside of the outer toons and on the back around the ladder and where the motor is mounted. When we bought our current boat Sharkhide wasn't applied at the factory. I purchased a can of Sharkhide and the service department applied it for me! Maybe I missed it but was Sharkhide supposed to be applied at the factory when you ordered/bought your boat?
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Oppps....I forgot the diaper part. Yes you are correct as he mentioned that also. If I had a trailer I would do it myself. But I don't so I will find someone to do it for me.
And yes he told me Bennington applied the shark hide at the factory.
 
Julianna said:
Oppps....I forgot the diaper part. Yes you are correct as he mentioned that also. If I had a trailer I would do it myself. But I don't so I will find someone to do it for me.
And yes he told me Bennington applied the shark hide at the factory.
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Okay so you ordered your boat with Sharkhide but it wasn't applied by Bennington???
 
When we spec'd out our boat with the boat builder we picked to have the factory apply shark hide. I will say, that if I was to do it again, I would do that application myself. So much wrong with the single application that was applied. Had to remove the shark hide from places on the skirt and then the first trip to the lake all the places they missed was quite clear.

The hand rubbed finish is much easier than doing a full polish of the toons, I did that last winter to our old Bennington.
 
Jgedeon said:
When we spec'd out our boat with the boat builder we picked to have the factory apply shark hide. I will say, that if I was to do it again, I would do that application myself. So much wrong with the single application that was applied. Had to remove the shark hide from places on the skirt and then the first trip to the lake all the places they missed was quite clear.

The hand rubbed finish is much easier than doing a full polish of the toons, I did that last winter to our old Bennington.
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I’m going to see if I can find a boat detailing co locally that is familiar with shark hide. Or if they are not familiar I will have them call Clint so they do it right. Clint said to apply 2 coats. I’m sure the factory just flies through them. I did watch the factory video, from Bennington on how they build the pontoons, and there was no mention of shark hide during the build process.
 
I have a question about the engine. Ran into some sand last night during low tide. Hooked up the hose to flush the engine. After about 5 minutes I heard a rush of water hit the canal. The hose blew off with the engine water attachment hooked to it. I put it back together, it was held together by a small zip-tie clamp, and noticed the threads inside the engine looked cracked. I took off the engine cover and it was covered in this fine dust. I’m thinking this is from them trying to sand the damage to the cover and didn’t bother to vacuum or wipe it out. Anyway, why did the hose attachment blow out? Are the pee valves clogged. I used trimmer line and stuck it in but didn’t feel and clogs? Also rookie question? Should the exhaust valve be peeing constantly when driving or is that just an overflow. Because when I flushed engine, setting vertical and at angle, it just dribbled out. Barely any coming out.
 
Lots of questions here as your nomenclature might be off.

Is the hose attachment the one on the outside of the cowling? What broke on it?

What exhaust vale are you talking about? The engine normally exhausts through the gearcase at the propeller while running, but at idle there is a square black exhaust port that will generally be the primary exhaust port. Water should not be coming out of there unless there is a blockage somewhere, although it's not a big deal from what I've heard.

Are you getting high temperature alarms? Do you have a water pressure gauge and what does that indicate?

My guess is you have some of that sand/silt/crud up in your thermostats or PCV and it's creating more pressure in your cooling passages causing it to come out the exhaust relief port. If you are a DIY type you could pull all of those parts, check/clean and lube and see if it helps, also could pull the lower unit and check your impeller and exhaust damper gasket.

OR just run the engine making sure you don't have a high temp alarm and hope over time any blockages work themselves free.

Pictures would help as well.
 
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