Relocating batteries from back to front

Berf

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I have the dual battery set up on a 22S Bennington with the half length center tube and a 150hp Yamaha. It sits way too low in the rear and I want to redistribute some of the weight to the front so it sits better in the water. I can buy battery relocation wires and extend the wires easily enough and move the batteries from the rear to the front, which would essentially shift nearly 100 lbs forward.

I'm just wondering if anyone else has been down this road, and if there is any reason not to do it.
 
I just don’t think shifting that 100lbs forward will make much (if any) difference. That’s how those half length center toon set up hulls sit. I don’t think there is really any getting around it. It is unfortunately part of the trade-off in going with that hull vs full length tritoon.

However, if you move forward with this project, please report back with pictures (maybe before and after pictures if possible). Either way, it would be good information for others to consider in advance in a similar situation with that hull.
 
Well, taking 100 lbs off the rear and moving it to the front is like adding one 200 lb person to the front. When I stand on the front, it makes a noticeable difference.

I could easily just disconnect the batteries and carry them to the front and see what a difference it makes. I really wish the gas tank was also in the front, as this would make a big difference too.

I wonder how expensive and feasible it would be to replace the short express tube with a standard center tube...
 
Well, taking 100 lbs off the rear and moving it to the front is like adding one 200 lb person to the front. When I stand on the front, it makes a noticeable difference.

I could easily just disconnect the batteries and carry them to the front and see what a difference it makes. I really wish the gas tank was also in the front, as this would make a big difference too.

I wonder how expensive and feasible it would be to replace the short express tube with a standard center tube...
Welcome Berf! Like you said, you can easily move them forward to see exactly what effect it’s going to have before you do anything permanent. I think you’ll find the cost to replace that tube is quite expensive. I’m surprised your dealer didn’t say anything to you about potential issues with the express tube and a large engine.
 
I moved battery’s forward to get them out of the fuel compartment in the back of my boat. Battery relocation is simple job. No reason not to do it. With regard to bolting in a full length center tube. That is also a simple job because the cross members are pre drilled for every available combination of center tubes. A elliptical center tube cost me $5000. The round center tubes would be cheaper. You will also need the gas tank that goes with the center tube.
 
I just went through the exercise of moving the batteries temporarily to see what the effect would be.

It raised the rear of the boat by about an inch and a quarter, and dropped the front by about an inch. While this doesn't sound like a lot, it was a very noticeable difference in the angle of the boat at rest with no one on board, and did bring up the rear noticeably higher from the waterline. As a side benefit, it opened up a lot of space under the rear seats, and the batteries can be pushed far forward under the front seat into a cavity that is essentially unusable anyway, so they are totally out of sight. I believe I could easily fabricate a hold down for them there.

I can buy 50 ft of both red and black 1.0 gauge wire to do both batteries for about $150 on Amazon, and do the work myself. So $150 buys me a bit over an inch of waterline improvement on both ends. I'd bet if I moved the fuel tank forward, I'd get at least another inch on both ends.

I've called a Bennington dealer to see what a new center pontoon would cost. Still waiting on reply.

I don't understand why Bennington doesn't put the batteries and fuel tank at the front. Seems like common sense to me, and the cost difference is negligible. On these boats with the express tube, it really would make sense.
 
When the dealer calls back with the new center toon price ,ask them if moving your batteries yourself will void part of your warranty. If they say no ,ask them to put it in writing.
 
When the dealer calls back with the new center toon price ,ask them if moving your batteries yourself will void part of your warranty. If they say no ,ask them to put it in writing.

I could care less about the warranty. I just need the boat to be usable for me. Magnum Moss act covers me anyway. As long as the modification doesn't impact whatever is being claimed under warranty, then no foul. For example, you can't blame a leak in a pontoon weld on moving the batteries. Now if moving the batteries causes an electrical problem, then that's on me, as it should be. I'm willing to accept that small risk.
 
Thats your call ,just going by what I have seen happen in the past on the forum .
I could care less about the warranty. I just need the boat to be usable for me. Magnum Moss act covers me anyway. As long as the modification doesn't impact whatever is being claimed under warranty, then no foul. For example, you can't blame a leak in a pontoon weld on moving the batteries. Now if moving the batteries causes an electrical problem, then that's on me, as it should be. I'm willing to accept that small risk.
 
At WOT - my 26L is flat as it flies across the water, especially with people in the front (where most of our seating is). So, if you are moving the batteries, be aware......
 
If a dealer wants to deny a warranty claim, they can always find some reason to do so. Warranties are only as good as the paper they are written on anyway. A good dealer will fight for his customer and support them and not try to find excuses.

Having my boat perform the way I need it to is more important to me than worrying about all the possible scenarios where my warranty "might" be affected. If I have an issue with my boat down the road, I'll deal with it at that time.
 
My boat just got back for motor repair covered by warranty. They covered it because it was unrelated to my boat modifications. I have learned from experience that boats with different attitudes (level or bow up) will have different qualities and deficiencies.
 
So, I just had another thought. I wonder if I could unbolt the center express tube, and move it aft by one crossmember, thus moving the bouyancy of it more to the stern. I think there may be enough room in front of the transom to do this.

Thoughts?
 
So, I just had another thought. I wonder if I could unbolt the center express tube, and move it aft by one crossmember, thus moving the bouyancy of it more to the stern. I think there may be enough room in front of the transom to do this.

Thoughts?
Good idea if you can do it. I would be surprised if you can.
 
I just start to wonder if you would be better served by simply selling your current boat since you don’t like the compromise hull performance and just going with a pure tritoon?

As a retired engineer I am sure you have the knowledge, skill set and curiosity to adapt yours, which is great. Many don’t. Maybe it becomes your hobby boat? If you make those sorts of changes, I am sure many members would be interested in following what you do.

That said, you can probably sell what you have for close to what you paid for it, and just reinvest that $ into an actual tritoon with a hull layout (SPS or ESP) that sits, handles and performs the way you want it to without all the hassle. Due to your career background, it sounds like you have a few more options than most would.
 
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