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Removing and resecuring underskin

NCLakeGuy

NCLakeGuy

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I am about to do the Easy Step from Lillipad on my Q23. Can anyone tell me drill bit size to remove rivets and SS rivet size to replace? Just preparing. I asked my dealer, really nice guy, but he never responded. And he says he hates to have his tech do them so not sure why....
 
I believe it's 3/16", I'm going off of memory from a project last year.
 
Do you remember if you drilled out with a 3/16 or 1/4 drill bit? Thanks
 
It was 3/16. I just went out to my garage and looked for the bag that had what I used in it. I have another project coming up I want to do, this time I am getting a pneumatic rivet gun. Going to wire my onboard charger and add a deep cycle battery forward for the use of our IceCo cooler.
 
And you drilled out with 3/16 bit too? I assume you went back with stainless? If my body shop does not have a pneumatic rivet gun yet they may soon:D
 
NCLakeGuy said:
And you drilled out with 3/16 bit too? I assume you went back with stainless? If my body shop does not have a pneumatic rivet gun yet they may soon:D
Click to expand...
Yes 3/16th drill bit. I've used both stainless and aluminum for other projects on my other boats with the wave shield.
 
Thanks! I am at my shop reassembling my track car engine and found our pneumatic rivet gun....so just need the ladder and some time on a weekend!
FYI
UT Austin MBA many years ago, Houston for 10yrs, Addison for 2yrs, Charlotte ever since!
 
When I took off the front panel on my under skin for my train horn Install. A few of the rivets were not even doing anything. I ended up drilling and tapping the holes for stainless bolts with anti seize on them. Probably the route I will also go on my ladder install when it gets here next week
 
Interesting. How do you access the blind/interior side when you put the skin in place?
 
I drilled and tapped the rivet holes. That way if I ever have to pull the panel again it’s a lot easier
 
That is interesting. I did not realize the aluminum was thick enough to accept a tap and get viable threads to really secure the screw but I have not looked yet. I figured you would need a riv-nut to get a strong threaded connection. That is what we use on thinner aluminum. This may be why when I tried to cross the rivet Bennington uses, the best I could given limited information, it looked like a 1/2" grip rivet, which I thought was long. This may make sense.
 
I got lots of bits and pieces but specifically what is needed to reattach the underskin was a bit elusive and several different answers in this thread and in many forums. And several options to resecure with SS self tamping screws, or tap the hole and use SS bolts. After reading everything I could find, talking with Bennington regional rep and local tech rep and getting a Bennington provided rivet the dealers get when they need to install something and underskin is only temporary attached when shipped to them, here is what I understand. I was focused on my 2019 23Q but seems to apply to many models.

The rivets are 304 SS 3/16" and grip range from Bennington is 1/2" to 3/4" most 3/4" Several people on forums seem to have used under 1/2" grip seems down to a 1/4th grip range. While it will work it leaves a lot of strength behind based on my understand and experience in automotive.

So I ordered 304 full SS 3/16" at 3/4" grip and with pneumatic rivet gun can pull even if needs 1/2" . Be really interested if any pull to 1/4" grip

Also have not drop my underskin but seems double sided tape is used on the edge for final sealing. Bennington uses Titan 1/2" inch tape. Good product but I will go 3M equivalent since that is what we use in my shop with excellent results and adhesion.

Hope this helps someone in a future project needing to remove underskin.

I will post some pics when I actually do this and let everyone know where I was wrong.
 
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