Searching for the right Trailer

Slow Ride

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Charles City , Va
I am getting ready to buy a 2012 25' Bennington.

I am looking for suggestions on which trailer manufacturer to use.

Also what should it cost?
 
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There are a lot of options, It comes down to how far you are going to tow and how often as far as primary narrow down options and then what you pull it with ect. I have looked a many different trailers over the years and I have to say Shorelandr' is one of my top picks.But it also depends on if you will be going in and out of salt or fresh water as to whick trailer material to choose as well. Tire size, trailer brakes or not depending on what state you live in and again what you will be towing it with.

Fill us in with more details so we can better help with more refined answers.
 
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Generally I will just go up and down my boat ramp in fresh water. I would like the trailer to be good for long distance and salt. Visit friends in florida. I tow with a Suburban with the tow package. I would prefer aluminum but I do not know the difference in the cost.

quote name='Wild and Free' timestamp='1330184723' post='6463']

There are a lot of options, It comes down to how far you are going to tow and how often as far as primary narrow down options and then what you pull it with ect. I have looked a many different trailers over the years and I have to say Shorelandr' is one of my top picks.But it also depends on if you will be going in and out of salt or fresh water as to whick trailer material to choose as well. Tire size, trailer brakes or not depending on what state you live in and again what you will be towing it with.

Fill us in with more details so we can better help with more refined answers.
 
Generally I will just go up and down my boat ramp in fresh water. I would like the trailer to be good for long distance and salt. Visit friends in florida. I tow with a Suburban with the tow package. I would prefer aluminum but I do not know the difference in the cost.

I have the Shorelander for my SeaDoos, but I have had 2 Trailmasters for my 2575s , built in northern Indiana,just outside of Elkhart and am very pleased. I like the heavy construction and front boarding ladder. Pay the diff. and get the 2 speed winch.It can be very handy sometimes. I use their model WBT2450 BR and it pulls very well.
 
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Anybody know anything about Heritage Custom trailers? Look good just wonder how they perform.

Derrick
 
After describing how I was going to use my 2575 (Half Michigan fresh water Half Florida salt water) my salesperson set me up with a tandem axle Hoosier trailer with surge brakes. This turned out to be a poor choice as the salt water ruined all the brakes and rusted all the shackles and nuts. Hoosier replaced most of this under warranty but the fact remains that a galvanized trailer is NOT a salt water trailer. You need stainless steel or powder coated brakes. If I had to do it over I would have consulted a trailer manufactuer in a salt water area, not Elkhart Indiana.
 
Anybody know anything about Heritage Custom trailers? Look good just wonder how they perform.

Derrick
I have a Heritage Trailer and haven't had any problems so far.
 
I have a Heritage Trailer and haven't had any problems so far.
Thanks, good to know! No paint bubble/rust issues yet?
 
IMHO, The trailer is a very important, if not most important, component of the over all picture. The flexibility offered by a well designed trailer encourages traveling to various lakes, pulling the boat out for whatever reason, better family unison and pride of ownership.

The first deterant for trailering is loading. Loading problems can be mitigated by trailer design. There are a couple of things the trailer design will benifit. Some designs include guide bunks. I prefer multiple cushioned goal posts. The posts are either cut or adjusted to length at a staged angle, relative to the water line when the trailer is submerged. The bunk angles and front to rear spacing is "critical". Proper bunk placement will cause the tubes to find home and "Nest". The option of an aluminum walk deck (fitted between all bunk pairs) provides a safer solution for the assistant to "walk out" and guide the bow and/or attach the winch strap.

A pontoon boat has a large vertical surface area. A slight wind will cause the hull to drift and miss the bunks. Therefore, the scheme of hand guiding and attaching the bow strap will prevent considerable frustration. A remote controlled winch motor will offer more flexibility and safer control. Subject to stronger winds, a kite bridle can be created with a piece of rope. The bridle changes the lever fulcrum and supports guiding the bow. (I have considered designing a bow thruster)

The standing joke; a cheap, entertaining day, is watching people load their boats. A good trailer design will eliminate much of "Their" fun.

Once the boat is on the trailer, the motor skag may have a dangerous amount of ground clearance. The motor can be tilted or a hydraulic "Jack Plate" will raise the motor to prevent "ripping" the scag off. I prefer the jack plate for several reasons. Bob's Machine offers a good one. The system is easy to install.

The CG (center of gravity) location of the axles will make the trailer safe to pull, or NOT. One size DOES NOT fit all. The trailer coupler/ball capacity is the owners responsibility. Yes, the vendors before the owner have liability. However, The owner is accountable for towing an under capacity trailer. That includes not only the attaching system, but tires, wheels, axles, brakes, tie downs and anything else that may effect public safety.

A steel trailer of good design will cost $5-6000.00, aluminum with Stainless steel rotors should not be a lot more.

Once you have the trailer, roaming confidence will encourage exploring. With that, IMHO, one will want the largest Horsepower engine the boat can handle. The cruisers, run-abouts and ski boats will hate you for that. Not only do you have most, if not all they have, but much more, for less money.

Now, when docking, just go SLOOOOOOW ! Did I say SLOOOOOW ? OH, get the big fat bumpers and use them.

"
 
Thanks, good to know! No paint bubble/rust issues yet?
No issues yet except for the normal wear and tear of the front carpet bunk when the boat rail hits it. My trailer is only a year old so I can't really give you too much info.

Funny story....Last year my tow vehicle was a F-350 Dually with an after market surge brake controller so when I went to buy my new F-150 I wanted an integrated surge brake controller as an option. Once I got my new truck I loaded up the boat in an attempt to adjust the brake controller. I just couldn't get the truck to recognize that the trailer was connected. While troubleshooting, I looked at my trailers manual and learned that the brakes on the trailer were surge brakes and not electric brakes. Oh well, if I ever pull a trailer with electric brakes I'm prepared.
 
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