Dmonnny123
Well-Known Member
Well then... Your posts don't count on this thread then LOL
Swingback Stereo upgrade help
- Thread starter Comin In Hot
- Start date
Well then... Your posts don't count on this thread then LOL
I am getting ready to add a sub. Did anyone get their hands on the wiring diagram or figure out how the rear swing back speakers are wired?
I really hope the cabin speakers are all on one channel and the swing back ones are on a separate as adding an amp will be easy as I want to turn off the swing back speakers when not needed.
Any help from this old thread would be much appreciated.
Seadoorxpguy
Well-Known Member
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What exactly are you trying to do? How would you turn off the exterior speakers? I just went through all this on my boat.
Old audio set up: 2020 SSBXP with KMC45 (stock) head-unit and swingback speakers (kicker light up speakers)
New audio set up: KMC4 head-unit, Infinity M4555A amp, Infinity Kappa 1050M 10" sub with custom box placed under rear bench.
I wanted to have each set of speakers on separate channels (bow speakers, captain speakers and the swingback speakers) however the amp I have is only a 5-channel amp. Seeing as though the amp is the limiting factor, I wanted to have the cabin (bow & captain) speakers on one channel and the swing back speakers on the other channel. I didnt trace down the wires completely but what I founds is the cabin speakers are spliced together and the swingback speakers are separate - thank goodness. This fortunately made it possible for me to control the cabin speakers and rear facing speakers separately with the KMC45 head unit.
Take everything from here on out with a grain of salt - I am not an audio expert but rather a "you-tube warrior".
I took off the side skirt to run my 3 RCAs (Front, Rear & Sub) I also ran two sets of speakers wires. I ran the wires down the little rubber boot under the helm, along side of where the skirt was, and then over to the rear bench. I drilled a 1" hole in the floor to bring the wire up from below into the bench area ( I do have the under skirting so this was the best solution and within arms reach to run the cables). I connected all the RCA jacks according to how I had them coming from my head unit; currently I have them on Front, Rear and Sub. The head-unit has zone 2, so I might experiment with changing rear to zone 2 but it is working as intended via fade.
From there, I bridged both the front and rear speaker wires on the amp and connected them to the speaker wires from the existing harness under the helm. I ended up having to cut the speaker wires from the harness to make the connection I just ran from the amp. Tying the purple and green (rear) wires together and the gray and white (front speakers) together.
Shockingly everything works as intended as full disclosure I had no idea what I was doing from a wiring perspective. All four cabin speakers can be 100% faded in/out as well as the rear facing speakers. No more blowing out the coves with the rear speakers if we are just hanging out in the cabin Again I may trying changing the rear RCA jacks to Zone 2 as there is a dedicated button on the head unit to control the volume of zone 2. Ran out of time to try and well it has done nothing but rain on the weekends around here as of lately....
If there is any feedback or better ways of doing this by all means please share for my own benefit and others on the forum. I can also post pictures if that helps any other DIYers out there.
New audio set up: KMC4 head-unit, Infinity M4555A amp, Infinity Kappa 1050M 10" sub with custom box placed under rear bench.
I wanted to have each set of speakers on separate channels (bow speakers, captain speakers and the swingback speakers) however the amp I have is only a 5-channel amp. Seeing as though the amp is the limiting factor, I wanted to have the cabin (bow & captain) speakers on one channel and the swing back speakers on the other channel. I didnt trace down the wires completely but what I founds is the cabin speakers are spliced together and the swingback speakers are separate - thank goodness. This fortunately made it possible for me to control the cabin speakers and rear facing speakers separately with the KMC45 head unit.
Take everything from here on out with a grain of salt - I am not an audio expert but rather a "you-tube warrior".
I took off the side skirt to run my 3 RCAs (Front, Rear & Sub) I also ran two sets of speakers wires. I ran the wires down the little rubber boot under the helm, along side of where the skirt was, and then over to the rear bench. I drilled a 1" hole in the floor to bring the wire up from below into the bench area ( I do have the under skirting so this was the best solution and within arms reach to run the cables). I connected all the RCA jacks according to how I had them coming from my head unit; currently I have them on Front, Rear and Sub. The head-unit has zone 2, so I might experiment with changing rear to zone 2 but it is working as intended via fade.
From there, I bridged both the front and rear speaker wires on the amp and connected them to the speaker wires from the existing harness under the helm. I ended up having to cut the speaker wires from the harness to make the connection I just ran from the amp. Tying the purple and green (rear) wires together and the gray and white (front speakers) together.
Shockingly everything works as intended as full disclosure I had no idea what I was doing from a wiring perspective. All four cabin speakers can be 100% faded in/out as well as the rear facing speakers. No more blowing out the coves with the rear speakers if we are just hanging out in the cabin Again I may trying changing the rear RCA jacks to Zone 2 as there is a dedicated button on the head unit to control the volume of zone 2. Ran out of time to try and well it has done nothing but rain on the weekends around here as of lately....
If there is any feedback or better ways of doing this by all means please share for my own benefit and others on the forum. I can also post pictures if that helps any other DIYers out there.
Last edited:
Vikingstaff
Moderator
Great write up Scott! Even I could follow it…and I am not always a good DIY’er.
jcr159
Well-Known Member
any chance you happen to know the model number of those factory Kicker speakers? (I have the same ones, and forgot to look the other day). I'm interested in trying to find some measurements. Listening the other day, it struck me how... less than accurate... they sounded.
I looked on the speakers and didn’t see a model number; Guessing the part-number is on the backside of the speakers.
I also looked at my build list and see the speakers as 901089 illuminated kicker speaker upgrade. In searching that number, I got kicker lighted speakers but the grill is slightly different - assuming dimensionally they would be fairly equivalent but that is just a guess.
Hopefully that helps in your search.
jcr159
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
i'm going to try and take my measurement gear (i know, i'm nuts) next time i'm out to run some sweeps just for giggles... I'm probably the only one that will have ever attempted to "measure" speaker response "on boat"... we'll see what a disaster I can create...
