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Transponder cable pull

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CherokeeBoater

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2017 R23 or 23RCW (tritoon) with Garmin Echo 101. I want to replace with Garmin 93SV which has a different transponder and cable, so need to get it from the help to the port transom. I’ve read all the threads here I could find, and I am still stymied. Need some advice.

My tools include two electrician’s fish tapes (one flat so only bends one way, the other round but stiffer), various sizes of rope/line (using 1/4 in as that matches the cable thickness and should pull without breaking. Usual homeowners pliers, etc. I can get some fiberglass rods like for dryer vent cleanout or chimney sweeping if needed; some have suggested those work better than a fish tape.

My plan was to first insert a line through the helm into the gap between the hulls and deck, then across to port and catch it there. I’d pull about 15 feet extra and hold the end outside of the boat on the port side, tie off the end in the helm. Then from the stern send a fish tape with a hook to “catch” the line, and pull it to stern. That should result in a line from the stern to the helm. Then attach the Garmin transponder cable (end needs 7/8 inch diameter!) at the stern, and pull it to the helm. The Garmin cable is prepped with an extension which is screwed together and taped tightly so it won’t pull apart or get wet.

In the helm there is a bunch of wires going down into the hull just starboard of the wheel. There is a boot on the floor with a zip tie to keep it. I removed the tie and tried fishing a thin line through the boot, but couldn’t get it to turn and go across to port. Others have suggested pulling it across the hull and then hooking it from above, but I don‘t have any access on the starboard side. From port side, I can see across and there are fore-aft aluminum pieces that are no doubt catching my push/pull (electrician’s) tape. I might be able to push it across from port to starboard, but then I’m stuck again trying to hook it from above - and I can’t get it through the starboard side even enough to grab it with needle nose pliers.

Looking from the stern, the cable goes in through a small access hole above the log. I tried to push my fish tape in there and again didn’t get far before hitting obstructions (4-6 ft). I might be able to use rods instead of tape for that part but it will be tight, and I’m not sure I can catch the line.

I’m about to McGyver this thing. One idea is to try to run along the starboard furniture (outboard) and then across through the fuel tank access into the battery box and then down. Might not be pretty but I think I can keep the cable protected from damage.

Does anybody have advice or ideas?
 
are you pulling out the old transducer cable? If you are, can you tie a string to that cable and pull it through and then pull the new cable back with the string?
 
That was my original plan, but the old cable seems to be zip tied to the others or to the boat in places I can’t reach. So it stays.
 
CherokeeBoater said:
2017 R23 or 23RCW (tritoon) with Garmin Echo 101. I want to replace with Garmin 93SV which has a different transponder and cable, so need to get it from the help to the port transom. I’ve read all the threads here I could find, and I am still stymied. Need some advice.

My tools include two electrician’s fish tapes (one flat so only bends one way, the other round but stiffer), various sizes of rope/line (using 1/4 in as that matches the cable thickness and should pull without breaking. Usual homeowners pliers, etc. I can get some fiberglass rods like for dryer vent cleanout or chimney sweeping if needed; some have suggested those work better than a fish tape.

My plan was to first insert a line through the helm into the gap between the hulls and deck, then across to port and catch it there. I’d pull about 15 feet extra and hold the end outside of the boat on the port side, tie off the end in the helm. Then from the stern send a fish tape with a hook to “catch” the line, and pull it to stern. That should result in a line from the stern to the helm. Then attach the Garmin transponder cable (end needs 7/8 inch diameter!) at the stern, and pull it to the helm. The Garmin cable is prepped with an extension which is screwed together and taped tightly so it won’t pull apart or get wet.

In the helm there is a bunch of wires going down into the hull just starboard of the wheel. There is a boot on the floor with a zip tie to keep it. I removed the tie and tried fishing a thin line through the boot, but couldn’t get it to turn and go across to port. Others have suggested pulling it across the hull and then hooking it from above, but I don‘t have any access on the starboard side. From port side, I can see across and there are fore-aft aluminum pieces that are no doubt catching my push/pull (electrician’s) tape. I might be able to push it across from port to starboard, but then I’m stuck again trying to hook it from above - and I can’t get it through the starboard side even enough to grab it with needle nose pliers.

Looking from the stern, the cable goes in through a small access hole above the log. I tried to push my fish tape in there and again didn’t get far before hitting obstructions (4-6 ft). I might be able to use rods instead of tape for that part but it will be tight, and I’m not sure I can catch the line.

I’m about to McGyver this thing. One idea is to try to run along the starboard furniture (outboard) and then across through the fuel tank access into the battery box and then down. Might not be pretty but I think I can keep the cable protected from damage.

Does anybody have advice or ideas?
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So are you unable to remove the aluminum 'trim' that runs along starboard side between the toon and underside of deck? That should give to full access to use fish sticks to maneuver it where you would like. Lot of bolts to undo, but should be painless after that. You could also run the cable in some smurf tube if you think you may ever want to be able to run another wire back there for underwater lights, or at least put the cable in some split loom for added protection.
 
If you’re referring to the trim on the outside, yes I can remove it, but there is a piece of what appears to be box tube riveted in between the top of the trim and the deck, and of course it is blocking access at that point. I’d have to drill out the rivets and then re-attach. I am hoping for a simpler solution. I thought about some loom or tube/conduit but first I have to be able to pull anything!
 
Something to consider is going to a dealer and seeing if there's a model without the wave tamer. Scope out the structural framing and plot a path which may be similar to your boat.

Other option is to come down through the deck in the helm and just running the cable down the starboard side behind the trim, mount to the rear starboard tube if there's a bracket. If not, have one welded.

FWIW my aftermarket Garmin transducer is mounted on the starboard log, GT54. Dealer installed so I don't know what their run was but has to be a lot simpler staying on the same side as the helm.
 
Good thoughts, thanks. No bracket on the starboard log, so would have to have one welded. May be the best option anyway.

Nearest dealer is about an hour tow away, selling dealer (I’m the second owner so didn’t buy from them) is 3 hrs. I may go visit the near one and chat them up about it.
 
When I polished my toons for our old boat last year I had the side skirts off and had very easy access to remove the old transducer and put the new one on. Taking the side skirts off wasn't hard, just took about 20 minutes of work and an extra set of hands to help handle it and put it down without getting scratched up. While I was there I cleaned up the mess the previous owner left of old speaker wire runs.
 
Thanks - maybe I overestimated that job. Did you have the riveted pieces on the starboard side? If so, was there enough clearance with the skirt off or did you have to remove it?
 
CherokeeBoater said:
Thanks - maybe I overestimated that job. Did you have the riveted pieces on the starboard side? If so, was there enough clearance with the skirt off or did you have to remove it?
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The old boat was a 2015 and did not have anything in the way on the port or starboard sides to remove the side skirts. Our new boat, 2024 does have pieces just outside of the skirts that are riveted on that have already been removed once for some work and then put back on. Wasn't anything hard to do just took a little more time.
 
Thanks - was hoping not to have to drill out the rivets and re-install but we’ll see when we get to them.
 
CherokeeBoater said:
Thanks - was hoping not to have to drill out the rivets and re-install but we’ll see when we get to them.
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Yeah I can understand the feeling, but for me I would rather have to do it and put them back than not have them or pay for the extra time of someone else having to do it. Plus doing it myself enough I can justify new air tools to put the rivets back in with. LOL
 
CherokeeBoater said:
I used to have that same thought about tools, now I try to avoid “single use” tools because I learned they beget more projects/jobs! :)
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I don't think a pneumatic rivet gun would be a single use tool, look under that boat.... Want to do anything and you are going to need to drill out some rivets and replace them. LOL
 
Jgedeon said:
I don't think a pneumatic rivet gun would be a single use tool, look under that boat.... Want to do anything and you are going to need to drill out some rivets and replace them. LOL
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That’s my point… buy for a single use/project, and suddenly all kinds of projects emerge!
 
CherokeeBoater said:
That’s my point… buy for a single use/project, and suddenly all kinds of projects emerge!
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Oh maybe it's a me thing then. I already know I will have many projects in time. Since we ordered the boat I knew I was going to change out the transducer with the Garmin GT56 transducer so that I can have side scan ability. Just have to come up with a better mounting location on the wide beam boats as the current location the depth finder doesn't work well over 10 mph as it's out of the water.
 
Jgedeon said:
Oh maybe it's a me thing then. I already know I will have many projects in time. Since we ordered the boat I knew I was going to change out the transducer with the Garmin GT56 transducer so that I can have side scan ability. Just have to come up with a better mounting location on the wide beam boats as the current location the depth finder doesn't work well over 10 mph as it's out of the water.
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Agree on transponder placement. I saw somewhere (maybe in another thread here, or FB Bennington Owners group) someone had cut a piece of aluminum bar and screwed it to the old mounting bracket to extend the transponder so it sits where it should. Looked like 1/4 in thick, about 2 wide and maybe 4 long. I will likely do something similar. That’s the easy part of this job!

The mount for the head unit also is not ideal. I’m going to put it below the existing Garmin on the starboard side of the helm, above the switches, using the “bail” mount. I made a 1/8 plywood cover for the old Garmin 101 hole, and painted it to match (sort of) the trim. It will have a hole in the center for the wires, and a “nose” cover for the wires to keep rain out of the helm/wires. But none of that matters before getting the transponder wired.
 
Just keep in mind it's not depth necessarily that you're looking for, it's clean water. That may or may not improve with depth and may require shifting side to side as well. If there is an anode on the bracket consider relocating as this will cause turbulence. Also something to consider is beaching the boat - there are times when I like to back in the stern to shore and the tducer will take the brunt of it. Make sure if it's mounted at or below the toon's bottom it can flex or slip in it's mounting knuckle so it doesn't break.
 
And in case you're wondering here is my mount location. The helm plastic is very brittle so take care when drilling holes and I would also highly, highly recommend a backer piece of marine grade wood or other material. Even if you use washers these Garmin units are heavy and that constant flexing while running could end up cracking the helm.

IMG_1882.jpeg
 
Potomacbassin’ said:
Just keep in mind it's not depth necessarily that you're looking for, it's clean water. That may or may not improve with depth and may require shifting side to side as well. If there is an anode on the bracket consider relocating as this will cause turbulence. Also something to consider is beaching the boat - there are times when I like to back in the stern to shore and the tducer will take the brunt of it. Make sure if it's mounted at or below the toon's bottom it can flex or slip in it's mounting knuckle so it doesn't break.
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Agree, there are lots of comments on this and some videos on YouTube showing turbulence. In some cases it makes sense to move it up, sometimes down, etc. I think it best to start with level at bottom of tune, and then adjust up or down from there. I don’t beach the boat (we anchor off the beach), but that also is a great thought.
 
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