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What size battery to add

JIm_Andrea said:
I'm adding in LED lights that in total will have 22amp draw. Thats before adding in upgraded stereo equipment. The lights won't be used all that much I know but the stereo will. 
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22 amp draw just for LED lights. Didn't realize LEDs would have that much draw. Are we going to be able to see you from our lake?
 
JIm_Andrea said:
Are you running an isolator like the Blue Seas?  I think I'm gonna go with the Die Hard Platinum since they are made by odyssey and my local sears has a few in stock. 
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I am not running an isolator. I run on either battery 1 or battery 2, and they both get charged at the dock with my onboard chargers.
 
2550RSR said:
I am not running an isolator. I run on either battery 1 or battery 2, and they both get charged at the dock with my onboard chargers.
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Just curious, don't they get charged when you are running the boat?  No one I boat with probably even knows what an onboard charger is :)  

I guess it is needed if the boat is off most of the time and you just beach hop, I can see that.
 
Scott1 said:
Just curious, don't they get charged when you are running the boat?  No one I boat with probably even knows what an onboard charger is :)

I guess it is needed if the boat is off most of the time and you just beach hop, I can see that.
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The battery I am running on will get charged, but since they get plugged in every night both are always topped off. I got used to doing this with my last boat and the stereo batteries. We also spend a lot of time beached, and sometimes only have a couple mile round trip.

Edit: I will also add that all my toys I run tenders on tend to have much better battery life. When My boats are stored in the off season they get plugged in, just like they do in the water at the slip.
 
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LOL  the SeaBlaze X underwater lights pull 5amps each. I have 2.  The RGB LED lights I'm using long the tunes pull 7amps max. Also adding 8 RGB cupholder rings and 6 RGB Speaker rings.  Like I said before rather be safe than stuck!
 
My 3 group 31's are separate from everything, although I do have a wire run to the factory combiner switch just in case something ever happened and I somehow killed my group 27 starting/in boat battery. I also still bring along my booster pack! Haha, so far I've only used it to help other people, which is fine. I'd rather use that then hook booster cables to my expensive stereo batteries. It's amazing how many people don't know there is a correct order to attach each clamp when boosting from a vehicle!  Oh, and the Northstar's say they can go two years without a charge and still be fine. I still check mine every couple months in the off season.
 
BulldogsCadillac said:
My 3 group 31's are separate from everything, although I do have a wire run to the factory combiner switch just in case something ever happened and I somehow killed my group 27 starting/in boat battery. I also still bring along my booster pack! Haha, so far I've only used it to help other people, which is fine. I'd rather use that then hook booster cables to my expensive stereo batteries. It's amazing how many people don't know there is a correct order to attach each clamp when boosting from a vehicle!  Oh, and the Northstar's say they can go two years without a charge and still be fine. I still check mine every couple months in the off season.
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Most booster cables have the instruction right on the tag that is attached to them.  Then again, who reads instructions :)
 
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All I can say is I have a Love/Hate relationship with my wave shield right now.....  :angry:
 
^^^ I removed the aluminum panels above my outer logs and ran all my wiring and cables in that space in my old boat. Drill out the rivets to remove, and replace with a manual rivet gun. Pretty easy.
 
I was trying to avoid the rivets but may just go ahead and do that.
 
Yeah it wasn't that bad.  Here are a few pics.  I also ran all the cat5 cable I will need for the LED cupholders and speakers.







 
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I may have to keep that blue tubing in mind for the future. Ya never know, although I'm sure it's tough/impossible to find my little town!
 
2550RSR said:
Looks good. That's exactly how I ran my wires in my last boat.

Bulldog: You can find ENT conduit at Home Depot, Lowes, etc...
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Well thanks! And looks like they even have some instock! It's the liquid tight one, 3/4" is $100 for 100'. The closest HD is two hours away, but it is doable. 
 
I used 1"  Leave yourself plenty of room to expand. A few pictures to show the results of all the hard work!







 
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2550RSR said:
^^^ I removed the aluminum panels above my outer logs and ran all my wiring and cables in that space in my old boat. Drill out the rivets to remove, and replace with a manual rivet gun. Pretty easy.
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What size rivets do you use? 
 
Nice job Jim_Andrea
 
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