sunedog
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I winterized my 2011 2275 GCW over the weekend.
First thing was pulling the boat out of the water, adding a healthy dose of Stabil to the gas tank, and filling it up with 100% gas. The ride home allows the Stabil to mix completely with the gas.
Next I acid washed the toons. I use a locally produced mag wheel cleaner I get from my locally owned hardware store. I understand you could also use AC coil cleaner or "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner from the Dollar Store.
(Edited to add: I mix one quart of the acid with 3 quarts of water in a 2 gallon garden pump sprayer. It takes about two or three cycles of applying acid solution and rinsing with a strong blast from the hose nozzle to completely remove all the organic growth.)
I have a bunk trailer and I need to be able to clean between the toons and bunks. I dropped the tongue to the ground to raise the stern as high as possible:
Then I measured from the motor pod to the ground and cut two 2 x 4's to fit snugly:
When I raised the tongue, the toons lifted slightly off the bunks. Be really careful if you do this. I realize there is a chance the 2 x 4's might break or tilt sideways. But they only jacked the toons up an inch (at most) so I figured, if anything went wrong, the boat would come down on the bunks.
Before acid wash:
After acid wash:
Changed the oil in the lower unit. On Yamaha's, the drain screw (longer one) and air vent screw (shorter one) are different:
(Edited to add: Don't forget to replace the washers on these screws every time. They are not reusable. My next door neighbor told me he tried to reuse them one time and he ended up with water in his lower unit by the end of the next season.)
Then I ran the motor on muffs for about 20 minutes to warm the crankcase oil to change it. This also allowed the Stabil in the gas to get into the motor.
I saw this attachment on a Youtube last week so I ordered it. $18 bucks delivered on eBay and I think it was worth it. It eliminated any mess from draining the crankcase:
This was my first time servicing this 2010 Yamaha F115 and I did make a mess replacing the oil filter. It was pretty full and, even though I stuffed a bunch of paper towels under it before unscrewing it, it still spilled lot into the base of the cowling. Next year, I plan to 1) wait until all the oil is out of the crankcase and 2) tilt the motor all the way up and turn the steering wheel all the way left so the oil filter is at it highest point on the motor.
After refilling with fresh oil and checking for leaks and oil level, I pulled the plugs and fogged the motor. Bumped the key switch twice with the plugs out to distribute the fogging oil in the cylinders. Re-installed the plugs.
Then I greased all the fittings I could find on the motor.
Then I cleaned the interior and treated all the vinyl with 303. Got it very saturated, but wiped off all the excess. Scrubbed the floor with Purple power and rinsed it well.
Now it's ready for winter storage.
(Edited to add I forgot I needed to change the fuel filter and water seperater. Ordered from Amazon and will install this weekend.)
First thing was pulling the boat out of the water, adding a healthy dose of Stabil to the gas tank, and filling it up with 100% gas. The ride home allows the Stabil to mix completely with the gas.
Next I acid washed the toons. I use a locally produced mag wheel cleaner I get from my locally owned hardware store. I understand you could also use AC coil cleaner or "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner from the Dollar Store.
(Edited to add: I mix one quart of the acid with 3 quarts of water in a 2 gallon garden pump sprayer. It takes about two or three cycles of applying acid solution and rinsing with a strong blast from the hose nozzle to completely remove all the organic growth.)
I have a bunk trailer and I need to be able to clean between the toons and bunks. I dropped the tongue to the ground to raise the stern as high as possible:
Then I measured from the motor pod to the ground and cut two 2 x 4's to fit snugly:
When I raised the tongue, the toons lifted slightly off the bunks. Be really careful if you do this. I realize there is a chance the 2 x 4's might break or tilt sideways. But they only jacked the toons up an inch (at most) so I figured, if anything went wrong, the boat would come down on the bunks.
Before acid wash:
After acid wash:
Changed the oil in the lower unit. On Yamaha's, the drain screw (longer one) and air vent screw (shorter one) are different:
(Edited to add: Don't forget to replace the washers on these screws every time. They are not reusable. My next door neighbor told me he tried to reuse them one time and he ended up with water in his lower unit by the end of the next season.)
Then I ran the motor on muffs for about 20 minutes to warm the crankcase oil to change it. This also allowed the Stabil in the gas to get into the motor.
I saw this attachment on a Youtube last week so I ordered it. $18 bucks delivered on eBay and I think it was worth it. It eliminated any mess from draining the crankcase:
This was my first time servicing this 2010 Yamaha F115 and I did make a mess replacing the oil filter. It was pretty full and, even though I stuffed a bunch of paper towels under it before unscrewing it, it still spilled lot into the base of the cowling. Next year, I plan to 1) wait until all the oil is out of the crankcase and 2) tilt the motor all the way up and turn the steering wheel all the way left so the oil filter is at it highest point on the motor.
After refilling with fresh oil and checking for leaks and oil level, I pulled the plugs and fogged the motor. Bumped the key switch twice with the plugs out to distribute the fogging oil in the cylinders. Re-installed the plugs.
Then I greased all the fittings I could find on the motor.
Then I cleaned the interior and treated all the vinyl with 303. Got it very saturated, but wiped off all the excess. Scrubbed the floor with Purple power and rinsed it well.
Now it's ready for winter storage.
(Edited to add I forgot I needed to change the fuel filter and water seperater. Ordered from Amazon and will install this weekend.)
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