PDX - That looks perfect. How complicated is that to add in to the existing wiring on the stock 2 battery switch setup? is one battery already wired up to be the starter and one to be house without too much rewiring? I did a little searching on here and didn't come up with a single good thread on that piece.
PDX Hosedragger
Well-Known Member
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C100Data.pdf
Here are the instructions. I've been in contact with their engineers, and you can hook the alternator side up to the house battery and have it combine to the starter battery. If I were to do over that's how I would wire it. The reason is, starters draw quickly, but use very little of the overal capacity. I would rather top off my house battery first and then have it switch over and charge the starter, since my house loads are huge and I want them to have priority.
As you can see in the diagram you can also install a momentary switch that forces a 12v charge, which allows you to force a combine, just in case you need to use both batteries to boost an engine start.
Here are the instructions. I've been in contact with their engineers, and you can hook the alternator side up to the house battery and have it combine to the starter battery. If I were to do over that's how I would wire it. The reason is, starters draw quickly, but use very little of the overal capacity. I would rather top off my house battery first and then have it switch over and charge the starter, since my house loads are huge and I want them to have priority.
As you can see in the diagram you can also install a momentary switch that forces a 12v charge, which allows you to force a combine, just in case you need to use both batteries to boost an engine start.
PDX Hosedragger
Well-Known Member
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C100Data.pdf
Here are the instructions. I've been in contact with their engineers, and you can hook the alternator side up to the house battery and have it combine to the starter battery. If I were to do over that's how I would wire it. The reason is, starters draw quickly, but use very little of the overal capacity. I would rather top off my house battery first and then have it switch over and charge the starter, since my house loads are huge and I want them to have priority.
As you can see in the diagram you can also install a momentary switch that forces a 12v charge, which allows you to force a combine, just in case you need to use both batteries to boost an engine start.
Here are the instructions. I've been in contact with their engineers, and you can hook the alternator side up to the house battery and have it combine to the starter battery. If I were to do over that's how I would wire it. The reason is, starters draw quickly, but use very little of the overal capacity. I would rather top off my house battery first and then have it switch over and charge the starter, since my house loads are huge and I want them to have priority.
As you can see in the diagram you can also install a momentary switch that forces a 12v charge, which allows you to force a combine, just in case you need to use both batteries to boost an engine start.
PDX Hosedragger
Well-Known Member
I recommend emailing them with your length of power cable run and they can prescribe the appropriate gauge of wire. Maybe won't make a difference if it's under your rear seat near the motor, but I moved my house batteries under the helm.
Nice. Yeah, my batteries are both under the port lounger. If I read that correctly, it sounds like I can use my existing battery switch to force the combine if I needed to boost a start. Sounds like i need to get that thing ordered ASAP.
PDX Hosedragger
Well-Known Member
No, that battery switch will become a battery disconnect. Just read the instructions when you get the unit before you take anything out of the box and you'll be fine. And don't shorten any of the wires! (You'll see what I mean)
gnc1017
Well-Known Member
Thanks PDX! Looking at the Yandina C100. Compared to a typical isolator, looks to be even simpler, lower cost, great warranty, and easy to install, especially with the dual battery setup we ordered on our build. And if for some reason we don't like how it works (can't think of a reason we wouldn't right now), we're out of a whopping $65 or so.
gnc1017
Well-Known Member
bcpnick - Thanks. Our dealer has received the order confirmation back from Bennington, now just waiting on the build date.
I noticed you have the F200XA and that motor may already have an isolator built in. To use it, you would need an optional new wiring lead (a Yamaha accessory that I believe is ~$85) installed from the motor to the house battery and possibly disconnection of your house battery from your selector switch. Please don't quote me on that though because we ordered the SHO and to my understanding, that separate output is not offered on our motor so I stopped looking into that option. However, if you want to stay all Yamaha and go that route, your dealer should be able to help you with the details.
Looking at the Yandina though, I think the C100 that PDX recommended is going to be hard to beat for cost, ease of installation, and simplicity. Given the motor we'll have and the need to do isolation at the batteries, very likely the way we'll be headed.
I noticed you have the F200XA and that motor may already have an isolator built in. To use it, you would need an optional new wiring lead (a Yamaha accessory that I believe is ~$85) installed from the motor to the house battery and possibly disconnection of your house battery from your selector switch. Please don't quote me on that though because we ordered the SHO and to my understanding, that separate output is not offered on our motor so I stopped looking into that option. However, if you want to stay all Yamaha and go that route, your dealer should be able to help you with the details.
Looking at the Yandina though, I think the C100 that PDX recommended is going to be hard to beat for cost, ease of installation, and simplicity. Given the motor we'll have and the need to do isolation at the batteries, very likely the way we'll be headed.
gnc1017
Well-Known Member
Agreed!
kaydano
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,311
- Reaction score
- 2,217
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OTIPDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1423224719&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+charging+relayπ=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51uKM7X4wwL&ref=plSrch
Here's what we have. Works perfectly.
I don't think I've ever seen a perfect 5.0 Amazon score...
Here's what we have. Works perfectly.
I don't think I've ever seen a perfect 5.0 Amazon score...
kaydano
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,311
- Reaction score
- 2,217
Tie the two battery positive terminals together with your switch in between. Then you will have both batteries available for an emergency start. I just keep an extra cable on the boat if I ever need to jump them. I think this is what you are saying above.
Last edited by a moderator:
RReaume
Well-Known Member
I would like to see a reversable lounge like on the Harris single rear lounger where the back of the seat flips forward and back so you can face either way.
Willb
Well-Known Member
Welcome gnc.
The opening is not that bad. I have launched and loaded the kids on many towables w/o falling in. I also straddle it to put my engine cover on.
On the switch-PDX and Tom have it right. I actually moved the switch to the left of the battery bank. That way, lift the Velcro seat and click.
The opening is not that bad. I have launched and loaded the kids on many towables w/o falling in. I also straddle it to put my engine cover on.
On the switch-PDX and Tom have it right. I actually moved the switch to the left of the battery bank. That way, lift the Velcro seat and click.
Dan S
Well-Known Member
How about a helm door that actually seals when it's shut. I'm not talking hermetically sealed but maybe a drip rail over the door so when it rains water doesn't go inside the helm. the door doesn't exactly sit flush on with the helm.
Pittsburgh
Commodore
The ideas to do add on's or new features to your pontoon designs is appealing to many
To me if I could give one suggestion it would be
Educate all of your dealers to the same level
After educating them do a Certification to guarantee they represent Bennington Fully in all aspects
Do ongoing training to guarantee that Bennington's policies and standards are maintained
There are too many discrepancies from Dealer to Dealer
We did the research to come to Bennington
We shouldn't have to do the same amount of research on The Dealer
Just My Humble Opinion
To me if I could give one suggestion it would be
Educate all of your dealers to the same level
After educating them do a Certification to guarantee they represent Bennington Fully in all aspects
Do ongoing training to guarantee that Bennington's policies and standards are maintained
There are too many discrepancies from Dealer to Dealer
We did the research to come to Bennington
We shouldn't have to do the same amount of research on The Dealer
Just My Humble Opinion
Last edited by a moderator:
spinzone
Well-Known Member
Maybe Bennington has this available and I'm just out of touch but a lake friend just bought a Manitou Legancy and brought it by to show me tonight. It had the stern loungers like my RCW does but the really cool part was how the loungers fold up to create a face to face seating arrangement. It played into my function over form mindset.
Last edited by a moderator:
Link
Moderator
Spinzone, I also saw that at a boat show last year and thought it was a terrific idea. Glad you posted it here for TB to see
spinzone
Well-Known Member
What don't you like? The loungers felt just like mine. When we're beached, the stern deck becomes the congregating area of the boat. It's not uncommon to have 4-6 people back there trying to fit on the two loungers to talk. Unless it's an offshore center console, I don't spend much time scoping out other manufacturers offerings but I thought this was a pretty cool design idea.
Last edited by a moderator: