I'm assuming that screw is a pin. That black plastic clip looks like it is sitting to high. It looks like it is sitting on the screw pin. the gap in the plastic should be on the screw pin, then insert the pin so the leg doesn't kick back.
you have any pictures or details of you you did the panel itself? Looks like you have to bend the lip holding it in. I only see 1 picture of the damaged panel and several of the seat area.
How fast do you pull into your lift? I'm never going very fast. was it opened up? But I guess the momentum with a lot of weight could still be an issue.
Thanks for the reply. good point about looking underneath. but the boat is at our camp and I'm planning out a carpet to woven vinyl switch before the season starts. trying to get all my ducks in a row.
The cutout in the helm for our factory stereo was something like 3.5" H x 8.5" W. I just looked up the specs for the Kicker and the cutout circle is 3 5/8". Make a plate like ours and slightly enlarge the factory opening where needed. Use starboard or some kind of acrylic to cover the opening.
Here is the automated bimini in action for my SeaRay. The actuators used here were intended for use on solar panels. they have IP65 waterproof rating. I will post some links in my next reply. The actuators have automatic stop for the top and bottom. I also bought a DPDT reverse polarity...
Has anyone automated their bimini top to lower using actuators?
I want to do this so I can easily lower to get under the boat lift canopy and allows me to raise the boat high as possible out of the elements (sun, rain, etc)
I did this for my SeaRay but the bimini is much smaller and I don't...
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