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Deciding on a trailer...Pros and Cons of yours?

MH663

MH663

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Indian Lake, OH is where the boat resides.
Well now that the boat is ordered and scheduled to be built the week of the 9th it's time to start thinking about trailers.

I've read thru what I believe to be most of the post regarding this subject and did not find any pro or con specific issues so I'm putting it out there for discussion.

What are you likes and dislikes? What what you do differently?

I'm not planning on getting one until spring so I have the time to look and listen. We will be traveling with it so it needs to survive long trips. Ultimately the towing capacity is what will eventually drive the decision but give me your thoughts. Tandem vs triple axel for example.

I'm thinking the boat will come in between 4,000 and 4,500 lbs with motor. Does not account for fuel, equip., etc,...

Will spend the additional money for quality product. No sense in pinching pennies now.

Thanks and looking forward to hearing from you.

MH663
 
Mods,

Please move to Dock Talk.
 
Your weight will likely be a fair bit more than 4000-4500 with a 2550 GSR. My 2275 GCW is over 5,000 with the extras. The trailer that my dealer sold me with the boat was only rated to 3800 lbs so EZ Loader gave me a free warranty upgrade to remedy that (thanks EZ Loader!). The new one is awesome with many features I like, such as:

Extended ESP tube support

Vault hubs (practically no maintentance)

Horizontal guides between toons

Larger tires (go for class D)

In my dream world, I think an aluminum trailer would be cool. I also think bunks with that plastic channeled stuff would be better than carpet. Some pics and more info on my new trailer here: http://club.benningtonmarine.com/index.php?/topic/5515-ez-loader-customer-service-is-awesome/
 
I agree with Nick, after having 2 steel trailers, if I ever have to get another it will be aluminum with 14 inch wheels with D rated tires, surge disc brakes on both axles, poly bunks, vault hubs which have oil in them not grease and Waterproof LED lighting.
 
As we briefly discussed, I'm really liking my new trailer by Sport Boat Trailers.  Tows great and is very well constructed.  Even the paint is very nice.  I've had two Extreme trailers that were very nice as well.  I think the Sport Boat trailer is very similar in build quality and appearance.  I've also got a FE jet ski trailer that has held up very well over the last 10 years.  Years back I had a SW boat with a Pacific galvanized trailer that held up well too.  There's lots of very good trailers available.  My new trailer is set up perfect for my new Bennington.  I also really like the rear guides which float up when the trailer is dunked.  My trailer came with 15" wheels (spare was included).
 
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Havasu,

I checked out their website and it looks like they build a nice trailer.  To bad they're in Cali.  I have been checking out Phoenix brand and they seem similar in construction and are a lot closer.  If I had any warranty issues getting the trailer out west would just be another problem.  I just don't want the bare bones constructed that I have seen so far.  Not that they are junk but I would prefer to spend a little more and not have to deal wear and tear on a basic trailer.
 
Oh yeah, I'd look for a manufacturer and dealer closer to you just in case of a warranty problem.  The only problem I've ever had with any of my trailers was a bad ground on my Extreme trailer for my Malibu.  But that was about 5-6 years after I bought it so the warranty had expired.  Not a big deal to fix.  I've never even had a light go out so I guess I've been lucky.
 
I have a loaded up Mid-America from www.trailersforpontoons.com in Elkhart and, for my limited towing, wouldn't change a thing. If I were going to Canada or Florida regularly like a few here or trailering every weekend I might consider the EZ-Loader, Phoenix, etc.
 
As Nick said, figure on your boat being heavier than you think. Our 2575 RCWCP with 250 SHO outboard is 6500 lbs across the scale with 30 gal of fuel and gear. Granted, that is with our heavy duty (3x5" tubing) trailer... Looking through our trailer build sheet, things to consider or that I would recommend (some of which have already been mentioned):

  • Powder-coated frame
  • LED lights
  • Disc brakes (will require 5-wire connector for automatic reverse brake disengagement)
  • If going to be regularly towing in hills, brakes on both axles
  • If doing drum brakes, make sure it at least has a mechanical reverse disengagement option
  • 14" D rated tires
  • If aluminum wheels, clear-coated
  • 3500 lb axles
  • If need to do a swing-away tongue, get the strongest, heaviest you can (ours is 9000 lbs rated)
  • If you don't need a swing-away at all, avoid it due to the extra complexity and a little flex that results.
  • Tandem axle will be fine (do not do single on that size boat)
  • Horizontal wave guides (extending to back or add rear guide posts too)
  • Tri-toon center bunk (with extended ESP support, if applicable)
  • Make sure they set the Y-brackets up for the proper angles for your pontoons (especially if ESP center toon)
  • Adjustable axle/fender framing (allows you to slide them to properly balance the load).
  • Adjustable (sliding) front step / bunk stop (also allows you to properly balance the load).
  • Plastic bunk covers (instead of carpet)
  • Retractable Boat Buckles are really convenient (we put them on the front too and it keeps the boat from bouncing - not all do, depending on setup, but ours did a little - you can add them later if it does)
  • Matching spare tire and bracket
  • Locking lug nut kit (can be bought of Amazon too for ~$25 per kit)
  • Tongue stiffeners (extra bracing adjacent to the tongue to the middle of trailer that stiffens it all up)

One thing to think about with oil-filled hubs is that while no greasing is required, if you lose the seal, your hub is toast in no time (and you are stranded too). Our trailer is the grease type but the zerk is within the hub behind a rubber cover and attaches to a tube behind it that greases the hub chamber from the back to the front, so I can easily see when the hub is full as it pushes out towards me. Still have to grease it but the grease type gives me extra piece of mind and so far, I like the system we have a lot.

Of course, all that extra stuff adds up but not too bad considering the cost of the boat (and much, much cheaper up front than trying to modify it later). Unless it is for winter retrieval and storage only, I recommend spending a few extra $ to ensure the trailer is right. And if budget is a concern, you can add some of the accessories (locking lug nut kit, Boat Buckles, guide posts, etc.) yourself later. Again, just some recommendations - your use may dictate otherwise... Just keep in mind that having trailer issues on the way to or from the lake can be worse than troubles on the water so if you plan to use it regularly, I wouldn't skimp on the trailer quality.
 
Here's mine....Loadrite.....it's galvanized.....I had it waiting for me at the marina I bought my boat at.  I really like it.  Has surge brakes with both axles, full size spare, the guides are awesome for easy loading and unloading.  Drove it from where I bought it and the boat (2005 2575 RL I/O) from in eastern PA through the Pocono Mountains all the way back to where I live in Michigan.

gallery_300_298_4339036.png


gallery_300_298_5067263.png
 
Here is mine. Nothing fancy but does exactly what I need it to. The boat sits on it all winter, then I tow the boat to our place in the spring (25ish miles), and put the trailer back into the hangar until fall.

D04CFEAD-5208-47B0-96AD-65C811A5E9D0_zpst2anzxty.jpg


C83FF2CD-330E-462D-B420-2B21C82C5C2F_zpsj4ljg67j.jpg
 
All good info guys.  I cannot see your pics bcpnick.

thanks.
 
That because Nick doesn't know how to post pictures of an ole trailer. He can only post picks of gorgeous scenery that makes us drool all over our keyboards. :)
 
Right now its neck and neck between Yacht Club and Phoenix.  I will decide when I see the YC 1st hand.  They have a new model out for 2016 and I have one coming for me to look at with all the "extras" I wanted.  Construction is what is going to sale me at the end of the day.  They are basically with in a couple of bucks on price. 

Tandem brakes, deluxe winch with the nice wide steps and hand rails for the little lady.  LED light and spare with the bigger frame.  ESP bunk and support of course.

Will let you know what I think when I see it.

BTW, Benny recommends the use of a transom saver when trailering.
 
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This has been discussed in other threads, but in case you haven't read them, let's mention wheel size.

Conventional thinking makes most lean towards larger wheels/tires.

Larger tires = lower wheel rpm which should equate lower bearing temp & longer life.

The disadvantages of larger wheels/tires is a higher load.

1 - You are required to back further into the water to launch and load your boat.

2 - More wind resistance in transit.

I prefer a larger wheel size on all of my trailers except my pontoon trailer.

I have had both styles and much prefer the shorter load height for loading/unloading.

This preference is based on my use and my desire to keep water from infiltrating my rear differential. (which should be checked regularly by anyone that is using boat launches)

Others will certainly disagree, and there is no right or wrong answer.
 
Thank you for the information Bill N, can never have too much.
 
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