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DIY help

Remediation said:
I just called Springfield Marine who made my pedestal. Got voicemail for customer service. I will pass on what I learn.

Wild - have you seen were & how the base attached underneath?
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The seat pedestal is not thru bolted on my 2002. You might try calling Bennington Customer Service - there's a number in the back of the owners manual. I've spoken with them before, and they are always helpful. One question, if you are going to repair the height locking mechanism, why do you need to pull the pedestal? I can see pulling the seat off of the pedestal for access, just curious.

*edit 8/25/12 - pedestals are thru bolted! :rolleyes:
 
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Remediation said:
I just called Springfield Marine who made my pedestal. Got voicemail for customer service. I will pass on what I learn.

Wild - have you seen were & how the base attached underneath?
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I have seen how it is attached, it is mounted with six bolts with locking nuts under the deck which is the way it should be, the problem is that there is no way to get to the nuts without drilling out rivets to remove the side filler panel between the deck and the toon or to remove the splash shield but I am too big to fit in between the tubes of the esp so that option is out anyhow.

Remediation said:
Got a call back from Springfield Marine. The pedestal part of the seat is permanently mounted to the base. To change any pedestal the base has to come off the boat. They make a manual adjustable pedestal that I am interested in but I have to figure out how to detach the base from the deck.

Wild - Some options for adjustable pedestals - http://www.cascadede...s/26/Categories
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I too have looked at all the options and do not know why Bennington didn't use the pedestal base that allows for removal of the pedestal from the base.
 
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I called the Dealer and he talked to the mechanics. The Bennington does use nuts and bolts. The underskin which is rivited on has to be removed to access the nuts. 2 to 3 sections need to be removed. On runabouts with no access they use a toggle bolt system. Expensive at $8 apiece. An option I am looking at, is cutting the bolts off, the threads and nuts would drop onto the underskinning. Then use the togggle bolts to mount the new seat base. With the boat on a trailer access to the underskin is very limited.
 
Jim_R said:
The seat pedestal is not thru bolted on my 2002. You might try calling Bennington Customer Service - there's a number in the back of the owners manual. I've spoken with them before, and they are always helpful. One question, if you are going to repair the height locking mechanism, why do you need to pull the pedestal? I can see pulling the seat off of the pedestal for access, just curious.
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Talked with Springfield Marine yesterday. Their statement was that the pedestal is permantly atteched to the base. You might be able to remove the inside power strut but not be able to install a new one. People have tried and it is not a DIY repair. The repair is to install a new seat base unit. As a bonus, they make the power adjust pedestals in different heights. I plan on getting a taller unit.
 
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Remediation said:
Talked with Springfield Marine yesterday. Their statement was that the pedestal is permantly atteched to the base. You might be able to remove the inside power strut but not be able to install a new one. People have tried and it is not a DIY repair. The repair is to install a new seat base unit. As a bonus, they make the power adjust pedestals in different heights. I plan on getting a taller unit.
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Do you by chance have a part number for one of the taller power adjust pedestals?
 
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Yup, I'm wrong about the thru bolting. When I was under my boat I didn't see a circular pattern of six bolts near the helm because two were on the other side a beam - found them today.

chairbolts1.jpg


chairbolts2.jpg
 
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Jim_R said:
Here you go:

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Well, tried it today. Here's my experiance with JJVs - it does not work. I tied it on my toons with the build up not once but twice - no dice. My dealer says Zing (muriatic acid) is the only way to go. Hope this saves some of you out there some $$$. A scotch brite pad is more effective.
 
Try "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner from the Dollar Store or Dollar General. I've never used it but from many who have on another forum, they love the stuff and it's inexpensive. B)
 
duplicate post for some reason.
 
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Sharkhyde is the only way to go period. Its a lot easier to clean the weee beasties off the sharkhyde treated tubes than raw aluminum. My time is worth something and I don't think the cost of sharkhyde is much at all every time I read these threads. When I am sweating and not enjoying myself I consider that to be work.
 
Jim_R said:
Well, tried it today. Here's my experiance with JJVs - it does not work. I tied it on my toons with the build up not once but twice - no dice. My dealer says Zing (muriatic acid) is the only way to go. Hope this saves some of you out there some $$$. A scotch brite pad is more effective.
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Thanks for the update. I am assuming that it did not affect the corrosion buildup shown in your posted pictures.
 
Remediation said:
Thanks for the update. I am assuming that it did not affect the corrosion buildup shown in your posted pictures.
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I'll post some pics tomorrow. These will be after 2 treatments of JJVs Best Aluminum Cleaner, and aggressive sanding with HD green and Industrial Strength Brown Scotch Brite pads. To properly set expectations, I will say these results are nothing like what is seen on the youtube clip above. <_< Next stop Zing.

Wish I had the option of only buying a quart, but am stuck with the remains of a gallon of JJVs Aluminum Cleaner. If anybody wants to try a small quantity pm me.
 
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Remediation said:
http://www.cascadedepot.com/servlet/the-PEDESTALS-cln-ADJUSTABLE/s/26/Categories Really nice people on the phone. This company was recommended to me by Springfield Marine.
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This one?

Model 1250300-LNS

Adjust: 15" to 20”

Post Finish: Satin Anodized

Post Diameter: 2-7/8"

Floor Base Diameter: 9"

Floor Base Finish: Anodized

Bolt Pattern: 8"

Bolt Holes: 6

Note this one will only work if you have a gas adjustable seat mount.

http://www.cascadedepot.com/servlet/the-1123/Springfield-Marine-Mainstay-Pedestal/Detail
 
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I need to measure what I have next weekend before I order. When I could not get the pedestal off, I put the cover on and loaded for home.
 
Remediation said:
Thanks for the update. I am assuming that it did not affect the corrosion buildup shown in your posted pictures.
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Here's the tube that was only pressure washed - no JJV's Best Aluminum cleaner.

starboardtube.jpg


Here's the tube that was pressure washed, had JJVs applied twice, along with aggressive sanding with scotch brite pads.

porttube.jpg


I have a lot of time and effort invested, and I'm still not where I need to be. I have some lifting strakes on order, and need clean toons to ensure the best possible welding. I'm running out of free time to work this one, so I will be having the dealer do an acid cleaning (they use Zing).
 
From what I have seen on tubes that have been acid washed is that it leaves the aluminum more porous and this causes the biological beasts to get an even stronger foot hold and cause it to become even harder to clean in the long run unless they are pollished or buffed and coated with a protectant.

Just an observation and my two cents.
 
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Wild and Free said:
From what I have seen on tubes that have been acid washed is that it leaves the aluminum more porous and this causes the biological beasts to get an even stronger foot hold and cause it to become even harder to clean in the long run unless they are pollished or buffed and coated with a protectant.

Just an observation and my two cents.
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I hear you. Fortunately the boat will no longer be sitting in the water when not in use.

P1000100.jpg
 
The pedstal and mount arrive today. They look very nice, and appear well made - even moreso than the oem pedestal and mount. Should have time to install this weekend. I do notice one small drawback. In addition to the swivel clamp, there is a swivel locking mechanism. The mechanism engages only when the seat faces forward. When the seat is facing forward, one of the six mounting bolts is forward. Looking back at the underside pics of the thru bolts above, I see that Bennington installed the OEM pedestal with two bolts forward. I suspect this was done to avoid the support beam. Not a deal breaker for me, as the clamping mechanism can always be used to lock the seat forward. Also, with the OEM pedestal I generally angle the seat to port anyway for the additional legroom - this with the seat slider all the way back. Still, thought others interested in this pedestal should be made aware; I suggest verifying your own bolt hole alignment before any purchase.
 
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