I/O winterization

keithkz

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I keep my boat (with an I/O) stored in an indoor heated building during the winter here in Michigan.  In the rare event there would be a power outage, it has emergency back up generators that the owner ensures me works because that building also has all the water pipes that go to other areas on the property so he cannot afford the generator not to work properly.  I have used it the past two winters now.  Knowing all of this, is it REALLY necessary that I have the engine winterized?  I didn't last year and everything is fine this year.  Thoughts?
 
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I keep my boat (with an I/O) stored in an indoor heated building during the winter here in Michigan.  In the rare event there would be a power outage, it has emergency back up generators that the owner ensures me works because that building also has all the water pipes that go to other areas on the property so he cannot afford the generator not to work properly.  I have used it the past two winters now.  Knowing all of this, is it REALLY necessary that I have the engine winterized?  I didn't last year and everything is fine this year.  Thoughts?
Some of the services are just routine maintenance that needs to be done once a year regardless of the temp changes. Others, such as draining the block and lower unit, are strictly related to freeze risk in narrow aluminum passages. I stored my inboard in a neighbor's garage with radiant floor heat for several seasons. I just did the once a year stuff - oil changes, grease, etc. and skipped all the draining and filling it with glycol. Even if the heat went off, because of the concrete mass, it stayed warm for a couple days. Never an issue for me or him with his v-drive wake boat.
 
Another thing to consider is your insurance. Does it have an exclusion for freezing? If so could be a pricey out of pocket repair bill. And Consumers always keeps the power on!!!(unless a massive ice storm rolls through)
 
I would fog the engine, open the drain plugs (probably four, 2 on the block 1 on each the exhaust manifold), lower the foot and put the battery on a tender type charger and forget it. First time this may take an hour, next year it will take you 30 minutes or less.

Steve
 
Couple things.........Too early to talk about winterizing..........If you are absolutely SURE that building will not lose power I probably wouldn't run antifreeze through the block. But I would change the oil, filter, lower unit grease, water/fuel separator, and plugs if they're due. Grease the gimbal beating and any other fitting that you may have. Remove the prop clean and grease the splines and replace and install a new cotter pin......

Which brings me to another point..........StevL mentioned fogging the engine. I used to fog the carburetor/engine on my bowrider by spraying fogging fluid in the carburetors intake until the engine died.........my Bennington is fuel injected. How is a fuel injected engine fogged?!? My marina does my winterization now and I never asked them.......
 
We live in WI (very cold), and ski early season with our other boat (Malibu). Every outing in April, we re-drain the block and remove the raw water intake hose. Takes 10mins. 4 brass plugs and 2 hose clamps that need to be removed and the water drains right out. Better safe than sorry. If you wonder if you should...in my opinion...you should.
 
...StevL mentioned fogging the engine. I used to fog the carburetor/engine on my bowrider by spraying fogging fluid in the carburetors intake until the engine died.........my Bennington is fuel injected. How is a fuel injected engine fogged?!? My marina does my winterization now and I never asked them.......
Most people mix a cocktail of fresh fuel, 2 stroke oil, and a fuel stabilizer. They run this through the engine from a external tank for a few minutes.... Or until they smell the oil in the exhaust. Fairly common in I/Os but I would certainly follow the engine manufactures reccomendation.

My outboard I run a double dose of sea foam for at least 30 minutes before I pull it out for the winter. My selling dealer recommended this way of doing it. We do not have harsh winters if that makes any difference.

Steve
 
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I have a ski boat (Moomba) and always winterize that myself...piece of cake.  Pour 2 gallons of RV antifreeze into the engine and then fog the carb right before that 2nd gallon empties into the boat and then shut her down...but that is a completely different way than what would be done to my Bennington I/O.

Yes, the guy I store my boat at assures me he will never lose power because of his emergency generators that automatically come on in an event of power loss.  Like I said, he has to keep that from happening because otherwise his pipes would freeze in the warehouse building I, and 6 other people all keep their boats at and he has told me that at least one other boat owner there is doing the same exact thing as me:  Paying for indoor heated storage so he (we) don't have to pay to have the engine winterized. He insists the temp in there never drops below 50 degrees.  Like I said, I didn't have it winterized last Fall (or the year before actually) and everything has worked flawlessly this year.  I have always changed the lower unit lube in the Spring vs. in the Fall.  Yes, I know what the rationale is for doing it in the Fall but I have done this to lower units (all on outboards prior to having my I/O that I have now) and have never had an issue.  Plus, I like the idea of having fresh lube in it in the Spring for the season.

I guess I'll keep doing what I've been doing which is nothing to the I/O when I put it to bed in the Fall (except for disconnecting the battery terminals from the battery).
 
Straight RV antifreeze still freezes, ask me how I know, live and learn, I know several others who have learned that lesson as well, lots of Broken RV water pipes due to reliance on rv antifreeze alone. in a block definitely use regular glycol based antifreeze and make sure it is mixed just like you would in a vehicle. Most who have had experience with frozen rv antifreeze now use air and blow out all lines but in a boat definitely use glycol to be safe.
 
Straight RV antifreeze still freezes, ask me how I know, live and learn, I know several others who have learned that lesson as well, lots of Broken RV water pipes due to reliance on rv antifreeze alone. in a block definitely use regular glycol based antifreeze and make sure it is mixed just like you would in a vehicle. Most who have had experience with frozen rv antifreeze now use air and blow out all lines but in a boat definitely use glycol to be safe.

Well I hear what you're saying but I have witnerized that engine myself every year since 1998 and have never had an issue.  I unscrew the hoseclamp holding the water intake hose to the transmission cooler.  I put a finnel in the trans cooler where I just removed the hose.  I get the garden hose going in there and start the boat.  I let it run until the engine gets up to temp so I know the thermostat is open.  I then take the cover off of the carb.  I then remove the garden hose and dump the two gallons of antifreeze in the funnel......when there is about 1/2 left of that second gallon I spray fogging oil into the carb....usually the engine will evenutally cut off right as the last of the antifreeze is going in.  Done.  That's it.  Have never had an issue.  The engine (351 Ford Windsor) always starts right up the following Spring.  It is kept in my pole barn which is not heated.  However, I am willing to do your approach in the future because I sure don't want that drama....lol.
 
I used to do the same with the 5 Sea doo PWC's I owned over the years and for some reason got lucky and had no damage. Most Rv's sit outside around here in the winters so being exposed to -30*F and wind chill on top of that puts it over the edge versus being stored indoors even if its unheated makes a big difference, my PWC's  were always stored inside unheated buildings in winter.
 
Well although my Moomba is stored in my pole barn, it is detached (not attached to any other building) and has zero insulation.
 
This winterization is foreign to me. The way I winterize my boat is to keep a sweat shirt on board. ;)

Cheers, Steve
 
Straight RV antifreeze still freezes, ask me how I know, live and learn, I know several others who have learned that lesson as well, lots of Broken RV water pipes due to reliance on rv antifreeze alone. in a block definitely use regular glycol based antifreeze and make sure it is mixed just like you would in a vehicle. Most who have had experience with frozen rv antifreeze now use air and blow out all lines but in a boat definitely use glycol to be safe.





So I finally put my Moomba (351 Ford Windsor engine) in the lake last night...first time it has seen the light of day since I put her away in my pole barn in September of 2011.  Started right up....ran great....no engine problems.  And again, all I did when I winterized her in 2011 was what I mentioned above.  I don't believe that's luck....especially after some of the extremely cold winters we've had since then....I believe that's the proper way to winterize that engine.
 
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