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Intalling Bazooka sub/amp

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Scott1

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I have the Bazooka sub/amp 250watts.  It comes with a wiring harness and a fused power cable I think.  Do I really have to run the power all the way back to my batteries?  Some people tell me this in not necessary. If not, where would I connect and how?  Any input on this would be great.

Thanks
 
Scott, it is best to run wiring to the battery,positive and negative. if you where to try to power it up under the helm (the only other place that has power), i am afraid you would draw more current than the underhelm wiring can handle.

That being said, i don't know if the factory has provided additional wiring for an optional sub and amp on your model, does anyone with a similar model know if they have?
 
None of the wiring I have ever seen under the helm will handle the current of that a 250W sub will pull.

You need 10g or 8g to power that amp. And a big inline fuse to go along with it. You can get sub woofer install kits that include the inline fuse harness and the proper gauge wiring at most electronics stores. And if you buy the kit, you can be confident that you couldn't possibly have paid more for the components. But at least you'll have everything you need in one trip.
 
Thanks guys,

I have the wiring harness and fuse that came with it, of course the power cable with fuse is not long enough so I will have to order some more wire.  Should I get the same gauge that the wiring harness is or is it alright to splice in different gauge wiring?

Feeding the wiring back to the the batteries looks like a nightmare of a job, any suggestion on the best way to pull the wiring?

Thanks for all the help

Scott
 
Yes you can splice to a different gauge wire, as long as it is as large or larger, not smaller wire.

Using a "fish tape" is how most folks feed the wires through the underskin, although you may be able to go through the helm boot and go directly starboard to just under the rub rail and run to the stern that way. 
 
Also a very good idea to give it a little protection by putting it into some split loom and tape closed every foot or so which will help stop the wire from accidentally coming out of the loom. Also if it were me, I would order enough new wire to make the run all the way from the battery to the helm without splicing in. Two reasons, if you make the splice and it is under the boat you run a higher risk of developing oxidation/resistance at your splice point. Which over time can reduce the power throughput of the wire, which can limit effectiveness and also create heat. Second reason is you also run the risk of your splice somehow down the road coming loose and having to redo it. I know there are a lot of good ways to splice that SHOULD never give a problem, but easier to just spend the extra $40 and do it right the first time. Now if your splice is going to be only 3ft and therefore above deck and either under helm or in the battery compartment, a little different. You still can have the corrosion issue, but shouldn't be as prone to the problem as under deck and in the water. Remember, your ground is just as, if not more, important as your power. I would look for fully tinned 100% virgin copper. But that's just me. Sonic electronix usually has some decent cheaper stuff.
 
If you haven't done it yet consider putting it in the rear lounger where the battery is, with that sub you can use a high level input.  You would wire direct to the battery and then to get the high level input just splice from the speaker that is already in the rear lounger.   That sub also has an auto shut off when it doesn't detect signal so you don't need a remote connection.  

Just an idea.  Personally under the helm is the best location if you are only going with one sub.  

Oh, I agree 100% with Derrick, doing it right the first time makes a lot of sense.  Once you start adding this stuff it can become addictive and you can always add more!  Maybe have the dealer run power cable (4awg) to the helm and install a block for you to use for this and anything else you might need!
 
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