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Mast light connection

BulldogsCadillac

BulldogsCadillac

Just some guy
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Hi, I have a 2010 2075 GLi my problem is that after the mast light wiring exits the Bimini top square tubing the two male bullet connectors plug into the fence of the boat. Well at somepoint someone must have lifted the frame too far forward and the plugs are bent at 90 degrees. So now they don't really make a good connection anymore. The problem is that I have searched all around online and cannot find the same kind of connectors. I asked my dealer and he said to just use a couple of the blue crimp on bullet connectors, but the ones that are on there now have a 'sheath/cover' on them that fits snuggly into the two black receptacle holes on the the fence. I also believe it is to make it water resistant so it doesn't get moisture splashed inside your connector. Does anyone know where I might be able to pick something like this up? I tried to email Bennington, but I then found out that my question just got sent to my closest dealer, which didn't help.

Thanks for the help, sorry it's such a long question about 2 simple electrical connections, but thought maybe someone on here might know where to find them, or have better luck asking their dealer.

Derrick
 
Your dealer cannot help? Really? Punch in your zip code and find the next nearest dealership, tell them your problem, and have them ship to you the connectors. You are right, they are water resistant and simple crimp on connectors will not do the job properly.
 
I'm in Canada, the dealer I bought the boat from is about 6 hours away, and the next closest is about 7 or 8! My dealer said, "if your worried about it you can put some of that heatshrink tubing around it" I told him that the black housing around the bullet connector helps keep the water out and the connection seated properly, but he said it would work "just fine" I obviously didn't really like that response, which is why I'm posting on here. I should mention that I was talking to the mechanic, not the sales people, they gave the phone to him because they thought he would be able to answer it better.
 
Bulldog,

I would talk with your dealer again and tell him the mechanics idea is not going to work. Tell your salesman or the owner of the dealership exactly what you are looking for and I think you will get your problem resolved.
 
BulldogsCadillac said:
...the dealer I bought the boat from is about 6 hours away...
Click to expand...
Call him, tell him what you need and ask him to mail it to you. You might be surprised at how happy he'd be to be able to offer you an easy solution that lets him maintain your good will.

If it's not a warranty issue, you might have to pay for the connector and the postage, but that's a lot less money and inconvenience than driving down there. And he MIGHT send it for free anyway.

OR...

You could try your local auto-part stores to see what they have. High quality waterproof connectors are used in aftermarket stereo installation for under-hood connections. You could also try a car stereo store and see if they have something for you.

OR...

You could try online. I like Painless Wiring myself, but they aren't the only company around.

That's all I could think of. Hope it helps.
 
It is going to be hard to find just the bare connector, most replacement units come with a short pigtail which will need to be spliced in. Of course if you just splice the wires you have, that would be suitable if you use shrink tubing(look under the dash sometime and see what goes on there), but you will loose the ability to remove the canopy should you need to do so.
 
I guess I will have to try the dealer again, there are only 3 people that work there, the owners and their mechanic, so don't know how well that will go, just seemed like the mechanic didn't really think it mattered. I was even asking about adding the express tube kit, upgrading to the Yamaha 150 and adding the sea star hydraulics, and his response was, just buy a new boat with ESP. As much as I would love to do that, I actually like the boat I have and don't even have 30 hours on the motor yet!! (I know I know, get the heck on the water!) unfortunately, I only have the chance to make it out on our little lake 1 day a week, and it's amazing how it always seems to be a LOUSY day out that day! He was saying about how big of a job it is to add hydraulic steering, I didn't really care, just wanted to know how much, see if I could squeeze it in the budget!

I have looked tirelessly on the web trying to find these connectors and can't seem to find them! If I knew how to post a darn pic on here I would! :)

Thanks for your info so far, hopefully something gets figured out

Derrick
 
Hey there BulldogsCadillac/Derrick!

I just fixed/replaced my bimini lights, and replaced one of the connectors you’re talking about. In my case, because the bimini lights were always “flaky” from the time I bought the boat, and the first thing I was advised to try, was to switch the two connectors at the base of the bimini frame, near the console, one of those connectors finally broke.

It took three months of research and multiple purchases to discover in my case, the connectors were 1) male and female “bullet” connectors, 2) 16-14 gauge, 3) with end size .180, and 4) heat shrinkable. I searched locally at all auto parts stores, marinas, and radio shacks, with no luck... I found connectors with some of the criteria I needed, but not all the criteria... I ended up finding everything I needed at http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p974.html. I also purchased additional heat shrinkable tubes from my local auto parts store, and added a second layer of “heat shrunk” tubing to the connection you’re asking about, just for extra credit!

I did start with my local/closest dealer, and asked for the light and wiring specifics, but was only given a price of how much to replace the lights, which was only 300% more than it took to do it myself... :)

As you’ll see in my salutation, my boat is a 2008 2575 QXi, so it's possible your connector is not exactly the same as mine; however, now that I have my “PhD” in bimini lights, wiring, and connectors, I bet we could get’r’done!
 
I re-tested the link I provided above, and it says "error page is no longer available..." The website is: www.wiringproducts.com, then search for "bullet", and you'll get to this info below (reminder: this was for my boat - a 2008 2575 QXi):

Heat Shrink Insulated Bullet Terminals

HSBT!Heat Shrink Bullet TerminalsSize and Quantity

16-14 ga. 0.180'' Male - Qty. 5 (+$5.54) (+$4.99)16-14 ga. 0.180'' Male - Qty. 25 (+$18.45) (+$16.61)16-14 ga. 0.180'' Female - Qty. 5 (+$7.08) (+$6.37)16-14 ga. 0.180'' Female - Qty. 25 (+$25.37) (+$22.83)

For Wire sizes 22 gauge to 14 gauge with bullet sizes of 0.156'' and 0.180''Heat shrink bullet terminal connectors are adhesive-lined and color-coded to industry standard wire range. The translucent, gauge printed heat shrink allows for visual inspection. They have a greater pull strength when compared to vinyl or nylon. Heat shrink bullet terminals protect against corrosion and are waterproof when installed correctly. Rated to 600 volts maximum, building wire; 1000 volts maximum, 105° C.
 
"Kelvin" Thanks for the link to the electrical supply site! Also thanks for the pics of your bimini lights in the other thread; they look great.

I know from a recent problem I had, a person can waste a lot of time, effort, and gas looking for a specific electrical item. It had been so long (decades!)since I have ever had to do anything electrical, I didn't even know somethings even existed - like bullet connectors, heat-shrink, different colored liquid electrical tape and little flat "mini" fuses, lol. I have also become tired of paying the "300 percent" cost for something I could have done myself!!

Anyway, with the thought that "the only dumb question is the one not asked", what do you use and how do you use it to shrink the heat shrink connectors? I would go out and sacrifice one testing, but the little things are expensive and I figure it is cheaper just to ask you :p
 
I'll throw in here, 'cause i use it all the time. The recommended way is to use an industrial heat gun, but since not everyone has one, a cigarette lighter works fine, just be sure to keep the flame away from anything you don't want burnt. After you have put your heat shrink tube on, with plenty of overlap, crimp the connections and center the tube over your connection. Pull the connection as far away from other wires as possible, heat with lighter as you rotate the wire as much as possible, do not allow the flame to surround the tubing, just let the heat do the work. You will find that it takes some moving of the flame to get even shrinkage. Just take your time, and keep everything from getting too hot, and for safety's sake, have a old 409 or similar spray bottle filled with water on hand to cool any hot spots. I know it's a little redneck, but common sense will get you through it :D
 
Yes, that's what I used... a lighter. I experimented with my triple-flame cigar torch, but it got too hot--too fast, so I downgraded to a regular bic lighter... then it's art/experimenting... too close and you burn the tubing/wire... too far and it just takes longer for the shrinking to begin. Instead of experimenting with the actual bullet connectors, I had purchased an extra pack of heat shrinking tubes for a few bucks, so I cut one of the three inch tubes into smaller pieces, and practiced shrinking the tubing onto the old light wires that were headed for the trash...

The bullet connectors I used and mentioned above, came "heat shrinkable"; however, I wanted to add more protection to the inch or so of wiring that preceded the connectors... thus the extra heat shrink tubes... If you want to do that too, like Geoffrey/Brenda mentioned, put the extra tubing on first, BEFORE you heat shrink the connectors... :p I was guilty of "premature evaporation".... As soon as the delivery person handed me the package with the connectors, I ran in the house and started shrinking everything... then had to stretch the straw (extra tubing) over the elephant's head (bullet connector)... I was much more patient with the 2nd and rest of the connectors... B)
 
 
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Thanks guys, that is exactly what I needed to know. In my recent situation, the wire to one of the sidelights on my trailer wheel fenders got severed some how; the connector to the light was a bullet connector which I had to reconnect to the wire run. All the heat shrink connector package said (in barely readly little print) was use 1000 degree heat. Anyway instead I just wrapped it tight with regular electric tape and then applied four coats of liquid electrical tape. Since it is all hidden in the trailer frame I didn't care what it looked like! So far it has survived 8 trips underwater during launching and retrieval :)

BTW my 1st anniversary as a Bennington owner was this weekend. I haven't had any issues with my boat or Yamaha motor; however my trailer is my biggest worry and maintenance hog!
 
Last time I was back east I noticed my sister was doing some kind of arts & crafts stuff that involved glue, glitter and a small, hand-held heat gun that would be great for heat shrink tubing.

I checked at Amazon where I discovered it has something to do with embossing, and there are several of them available for around $15. Cheap enough to add something to the toolbox.

Just thought you might want to know. Any of you.
 
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